I happen to have some cherry stock 2'' thick, very dry. If I use a slender barrel, say 3/4, offset my barrel channel cut to the left of center a bit and used a small lock(Beckys Lock) would the cherry be thick enough to build a slender rifle, maybe a .36?

Uncle:

That's cutting it really close. If it's a 'fat' 2" and you leave the cheek piece off and skinny it up around the lockplate areas, you might make it. I have a full stock .40 cal. - 13/16", that I did some years ago(in cherry). In fact, I took the same approach on it! It really turned out nice. There are some other alternatives to consider but we'll talk about those later. I'll measure it tonight and let you know

[ 06-06-2003, 01:00: Message edited by: oaklane ]

Uncle:

I just checked! Early onset Alzheimers! It's an 1 1/2" at the widest point, which is between the the lockplate area and the opposite side of the stock. Soooo, you should have more than enuf thickness, even allowing for a few mistakes along the way. That is with a 13/16" barrel, as I said earlier.

You'll find Cherry far easier to work on than Maple or Walnut, because it is generally straight grained thru out. I did not stain mine. Just used some Linseed oil for a few coats and that and time have darkened to a beautiful rich cherry. Cherry will darken of and by itself after it sets for a few days after cutting or sanding. Good luck

[ 06-06-2003, 04:49: Message edited by: oaklane ]

This is the reply I got. The centering comments relate to my idea that shifting the barrel channel to the left would allow more wood for the lock mortise area.

Thank you for your inquiry.

Our "Becky's" lock is tiny, recommended for pistols.

It can be used on rifles, but our #Lock-LR-1700 is almost as small, and has a more powerful mainspring.

Nearly any small lock (Siler, L&R 1700, Becky's, small Queen Anne) can be used on a 2" stock blank.

We strongly recommend that you place the barrel channel near the center of the stock.

If you are a right hand shooter, you might place the barrel on the centerline of the wood.

Then, place the buttplate off-center, away from your cheek, touching the outer edge of your blank.

This may give you up to 1/8" of "cast off", i.e. bending the centerline, away from your cheek, to place your eye directly behind your sights.

This feature makes a rifle instinctive to hold and shoot (but worthless to a left hand shooter).

It does not require a thick stock blank, and it gives you as much cheek rest as possible.

Try it,

David Ripplinger

Track of the Wolf, Inc., 18308 Joplin Street N. W., Elk River, MN 55330-1773

Tel: 763-633-2500 Fax: 763-633-2550
Visit our web site: http://www.trackofthewolf.com


So perhaps I'm not restricted to a 13/16 barrel either?
On cherry furniture I use a gel stain and Danish oil. Know zip about stocks.

Uncle:

The Danish oil is a great finish. Not to many know about it. I use a powdered dye/stain that is soluble in alcohol, mineral spirits, naptha, etc. It is very transparent and does not hide the natural grain, the way most commercial stains such as Minwax, Carver Tripp do, because of the heavy pigmentation.

Good Luck and keep us informed of your progress.

Make sure any stain you use will not fade with exposure to UV light over time.The cherry will slowly darken of its own accord and take on a rich color over several years.Thats why most of the antique furniture in cherry is so dark in color.I too have a lot of cherry stock blanks from my Dad and hope to use one at some point for a stock project.

woods