I am planning to buy a Percussion Lyman Great Plaines Kit in 54 cal to shoot round balls. What I would like to know is, does the barrel and other metal parts come in the white or are they browned or blued. Is the trigger guard and other parts steel. I want to brown the metal parts to make it look more traditional. Can you suggest a good method for browning the barrel? Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Swede44mag.

I just got one a couple weeks ago. The steel was in the white, I used plum brown. Set the barrel on a rest,
Took a propane torch, plumber type, heated the barrel hot, when the brown touches it it should sizzle. I did the whole thing in sections about 6 inches at a time, and went back over, overlapping where I already did. It rusts instantly when the brown touches it. Then I just rubbed it off, and oiled it. It looks really old. really satisfied and this was my first brown job. Mine is 54 too, It takes the 535 ball and .015-.018 patches and shooting a couple inches at 100 yards. I got the "Lee" 535 mold only 17 bucks and works great.The wood I stained with dark walnut and then tung oil, sanding, I used 100-150-220- grit. Had to file some steel to get it right too, but the kit explains how to do it. mine didnt take no wheres near what the directions say you might have to do.

[ 11-07-2003, 23:56: Message edited by: Bulletman ]

Thanks Bulletman. Was your barrel rough on the outside did you have to file it down to get the mill marks off? Was the lock color casehardened? I put a CVA 45cal Kentucky rifle kit together about 25yrs ago and the barrel had mill marks on it and I had to file and sand all of the sides. The best part was when I shot it. The darn gun would burn the patched to ashes even with a light load and the best group I could get was about 25� at 25yrds. Sad to say it made me think that all black-powder guns were all junk . Later when Knight came out I bought an inline 54cal and had good luck and accuracy, but since I have wanted to try a more traditional rifle again. I hope the Lyman Great Plaines shoots decent groups. The place I used to buy my black-powder went out of business and I have been looking for a gun shop that handles black-powder. Thanks for your Input.
Swede44Mag

The barrel was perfect already, lock is like a rainbow of colors.I went to the georgia state black powder shoot right down the road from my house, and asked all the guys which gun to buy, they all said if I dont want to build one ( meaning from scratch) then the best production or kit model for the money is the GPR, I spent 240 bucks for it at Midsouth on line. at 50 yards it will shoot one hole groups all day with the correct load.

[ 11-08-2003, 06:48: Message edited by: Bulletman ]

Trying to order a Lyman GPR 54cal through Wal-Mart $245.00 plus tax if not I will order through Mid South. I will let you know when it arrives. Have you tried the Lee REAL bullets in your Lyman GPR. I seen a guy shoot them in a TC Firehawk inline with a scope off a bench at 100 yrds. He had 3 shots touching each other. I thought I might try them in my 54 GPR when I get it put together. I don't know the charge he was using though. I am mostly planning on using round balls.
Swede454

Havent tried the REAL, I thought the ball was the best bet for the twist rate, so I havent tried anything else.

Swede; The triggerguard and patchbox are Brass arn't they BM? derf

NO patchbox, no brass anywhere.
exception, the rod.

[ 11-08-2003, 23:11: Message edited by: Bulletman ]

Good to hear that the gun isn't covered in brass. It looks good on some but I plan to use mine deer hunting and don't want it reflecting the light. Anyone use the Lee REAL bullets in their GPR. I know it is supposed to be made for round balls but I thought I would give them a try. I haven�t seen a Lyman Great Plaines Rifle up close for about 25yrs just the pictures on the internet. Can you tell me if the rear sight is adjustable? Any info on how much powder this gun will shoot without loosing accuracy and loading particulars will be of a great help. Does the TC Bore butter help keep the fouling soft or is it just a bunch of BS that Thompson puts out? I have used 80grs in my inline with good luck. The man that use to own 4-Flags trading post said to shoot round balls accurately that I needed a barrel with a slow twist and deep rifling. Now if I can just find a dvd of Jeremiah Johnson.
Swede44mag

I am new to this also, maybe I am doing wrong, But I just clean between shots with one patch with a few drops of black powder solvent, just enough to moisten the patch and grab the fowling I turn the same patch over and use it again, I tried another dry patch after that, and found no significant results , I shoot all day like this and no problems.so I use only one. and then go on with only a lubed patch and ball, when I am done I take the barrel off and stick the end in a bucket of soapy water and use the rod and jag plunging to clean, then oil after dry.
It came with two rear sights, one is adjustable up and down, and you can slide it in the dove tail for side to side.
My target loads out to 100 yards is only 60 grains of FFG, but I have used 90 no problem. I just went back to 60 because I am shooting this thing like a junkie shoots heroin.

[ 11-09-2003, 04:06: Message edited by: Bulletman ]

That is quite a change since I had my old plains rifle. All of it's furnature was brass. My current off-shore Hawken is also brass furnished,I like it even though it can be a pain to keep clean. Yah,I know,I could polish it and seal coat it,but that seems somehow wrong to me. lol derf

"derf" What kind of finish did you put on the stock of your GPR? I am planning on using Tru-Oil. I have used it before it dries and can be gone over with steel wool for a satin finish. They say it has linseed oil in it with an additive to make it dry. I tried boiled linseed oil before but my stock never dried.
Swede44mag

I just sanded and whiskered it and used Tru-oil. Didn't have the patince to wait to use it. Also Boiled Linseed Oil never really dries. Try taking the wood off of and old Lee Enfield and placing it an oven at low heat,like say 150 or so,and watch he linseed oil ooze out of it but not if it's collectable! derf

I use a Danish Oil Finish on all my stocks. First sand stock to smooth with 220 sandpaper. Then cover the stock in the oil and wet sand with oil and 220 paper. Continue until you get to 400 paper. Any further to 600 paper will polish the stock if that's what you want. The key here is to wet sand with the oil finish. I use small squares of paper and an eraser as a sanding block. A piece of automotive vacuum hose with a small rod inside for the curved areas. Use different diameters of hose depending on the size of the curved ares to be sanded. Do not sand with just a bare hand as this will cause uneven sanded areas and grooves.