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eldeguello - pretty much dead on as usual. T/C Hawkens are mostly all 1:48 rifles and do well (in my experience) shooting the Maxi-balls over about 70-90 grains of Pyrodex. Reduce charges if using Triple7 by about 15%. Lee REALs at about 320 grains weight might also do well. Just be sure to thoroughly inspect the rifle before shooting and then start on the low side with charges. | ||
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The only deer I ever killed with a saboted bullet were shot with a TC Hawken 1:48" twist. They will work. Sabotted bullets tend to be quite short and make happy customers with slowish rifling. I recall that I used about 100 gr of Pydrodex at the time and later switched to the real powder (but i forget how much) which worked much better of course. Brent | |||
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Quote: Brent...When you started this post, I just knew you were going to say...."And, then I "paper patched" it"..... (Just kidding, of course!) Respectfully, Russ | |||
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Thanks for the input, guys. Didn't think about the twist rate, etc. I'll have him do some checking on it or do the cleaning rod measurement routine on it. | |||
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Quote: Well, you know, I did. I now shoot a .45 caliber 550 gr paper patched pure lead bullet over 85 gr of Swiss 1.5 fg in my home made underhammer rifle. Ugly, but effective to say the least. In between now and then, however, I built and used a .54 flinter with roundballs. It did everything the sabots and pdex did and a lot more. It is still my prettiest rifle by far. Brent | |||
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You also don't say if the rifle is a flintlock or a "sissy" I mean cap gun. If it is a flinter use black powder not that fake crap they pawn off as muzzle loader powder. I have always found starting with 1 grain powder per caliber as a good place to start. Except for Swiss powder. Using 3f for calibers up to 50 and 2f past that. Usually end up some place around 1.5 grains per caliber. Thus 75 grains of powder for a .50. That is till we get to my .62 I am at about 2 grains per caliber with her. | |||
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