I've had 2 cci brand # 11 caps that didn't fire on the first trigger pull but did go off on the recock. Never had that happen before. Have decided it's time for a change, but to what? Musket caps are hotter than # 11 but it is some thing more to buy, plus a capper to cap the inline with.
209 also hotter than a # 11, Plenty on hand for reloading the shot gun shells. Need a capper plus a kit to convert the Remington 700 mls to the 209. Kits in this area run $40.00.
Second thing, how much differnce in the inpact point between the same powder charge using differnt caps/primers?
Al

The cones on nipples are tapered to facilitate capping, yet the sides or walls of pecussion caps are straight. It is rare when a straight wall cap fits on a tapered nipple and precisely rests the priming pellet on the rim of the nipple. Here lies a problem. Unless the cap is a loose fit, it will often hold the compound above the suface of the nipple rim. The hammer, be it in-line or sidelock, must drive the cap flush with the nipple rim before it can ignite. Very often, especially on cold mornings when the lube is stiff, the hammer blow is not hard enough to do that with one blow, only seating the cap with the first blow, and requiring a second blow to set the cap off.(THE FIX) Try chucking your nipple in the jaws of an electric drill, and with a file or course emery paper, custom fit the dimension of the cone until it firmly, yet fully, accepts you chosen brand of caps. While your at it, do a few extras....Hope this helps

Good post Hutt, you are exactly right. I have seen this happen a lot. An option with a side hammer, is to gently lower the hammer onto the cap, press it down fully seating the cap on the nipple and then return it to half cock. I don't know if something like this works with an inline.

Brent

[QUOTE]Originally posted by alleyyooper:
[QB]I've had 2 cci brand # 11 caps that didn't fire on the first trigger pull but did go off on the recock. Never had that happen before. Al
So ya'll don't have any idea on the musket caps or 209 primer converson.
Al

FFI I run a upholstery neddle I've bent in the nipple pryor to installing the cap Just to make sure the channel is clear.This practice has worked very well for a # of years now.
Al

Yooper, Brent and Hut have it exactly right. Also, if you have dry-fired your rifle you may well have a slightly mashed top on your nipple, which will cause the problem you describe. While I suppose you can change to another ignition source, you problem is with nipple/cap fit, or a bad nipple. Number 11 caps will fire EVERY TIME if everything is in order. I have used RWS caps for 15 years--they have never failed me. Remember, the cap must be fully seated (pressed firmly into place)or it will take two hammer drops to fire it. Also, not all brands of #11 caps are of the same exact diameter--some fit tight, some loose.Good luck to you, Chuck

I have NEVER had a CCI #11 Magnum cap fail me, BUT you certainly have to make sure they fit your nipple, and are fully seated!! I have never found the musket caps to be enough better than the No. 11 Magnums to justify using them instead, regardless of what the experts say!! However, the 209 shotgun primers ARE A HORSE OF A DIFFERENT COLOR entirely!!! I have Mag-Spark 209 primer adapters on three of my sidelocks. The 209, fired through an unloaded gun, shoots a visible flame out the muzzle of these guns which looks just like when you pop a Large Rifle primer in primed case in a modern rifle!! Plus, the 209 adapter, with a primer seated, is pretty much waterproof also!! For real sure-fire performance, the 209 outclasses all other ignition methods.