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pure lead????
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Picture of donkeyengine
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when using scrap lead or wheel weights, how do you get the unknown amount of tin and other metals out so you can start out with a 100% lead base? If you skim the melted lead how do you know when you are down to 100% or so lead?
 
Posts: 1 | Location: SAN DIEGO | Registered: 10 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Basically - you don't. It's extremely difficult to smelt out the alloy and wind up with only pure lead. Most impurities will simply float to the top and skimming those off, then stirring, then skimming, then stirring...........and you'll finally get something that is mostly lead but probably still contains antimony or other impurities. Antimony takes very high temperatures to seperate, temps that would be dangerous in any setting.

Better to start with good lead up front but roofing lead or plumber's lead are nearly pure. Can just be a nightmare to clean.

By the way, if anyone knows of a cheap source or hi purity lead in bulk, please let me know.


WHUT?
 
Posts: 371 | Location: Missouri, USA | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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You might consider getting a lead hardness tester. Only pure soft lead is to be used for round balls and conicals.


Swede

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NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: Central, Kansas | Registered: 15 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Get a McMaster-Carr catalog. They sell pure lead in 1# and 25# ingots for casting engine bearings...
 
Posts: 148 | Location: back in the USA | Registered: 28 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Just go to a scrap yard and ask for roofing lead. It is pure and should run you about $.12 per lb. derf


Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati
 
Posts: 3450 | Location: Aldergrove,BC,Canada | Registered: 22 February 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by derf:
Just go to a scrap yard and ask for roofing lead. It is pure and should run you about $.12 per lb. derf

That and lead water pipe they put in buildings before they knew better. Big Grin It's usually very clean and cheap too. I bought about 300lbs of the stuff a few years ago for $35. I used it to cast 45/70 BP rounds. I don't think I'll ever use it up.

Terry


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Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Swede44mag. Wheelweight conicals work extremely well in a muzzleloader. They stabilize at a higher velocity and are considerably tougher than pure lead if you should happen to hit a big bone in an animal.
 
Posts: 23 | Location: Northeast Oregon | Registered: 23 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Wheelweights work fine as round ball when the proper sized ball and the proper thickness of patching material is used.The patch rides the bore not the ball.

Conicals and round balls were alloyed with tin,antimony,and arsenic then heat treated for use on African big game.

WC
 
Posts: 407 | Location: middle Tennessee | Registered: 24 December 2002Reply With Quote
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