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Shockey’s Gold Powder
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Has anybody used this powder from American Pioneer? I have a TC .54 cal muzzleloader and was wondering which grade would be better, the FFg or FFFg. I use caps and not 209s. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Posts: 101 | Registered: 16 January 2005Reply With Quote
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3F is a cleaner burning powder


Don't take the chip !
 
Posts: 578 | Location: PA | Registered: 21 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Thats it? It is just cleaner burning. I figured that 3F would burn faster than 2F since it is finer. Maybe, it isn't as important. I would have thought that there was a difference like there is for rifle powders, some are slower than others.
 
Posts: 101 | Registered: 16 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I tried the Gold Powder, noticed loss in volocity. I don't have a chronograph, but recoil was less.

Currently using T7.
 
Posts: 110 | Registered: 21 October 2006Reply With Quote
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I asked the rep at the NRA convention about shockeys gold. He told me the main difference was the label. Other than that it is slighty more constitant in grain size and is supposed to measure better. I tried it and found no difference. I like the ease of cleaning and for what little blackpowder shooting I do the performance is very acceptable.
 
Posts: 448 | Registered: 27 September 2005Reply With Quote
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I have used it.I bought it because it was cheaper than any other powder at the time.I also wanted to try it. It is a very coarse powder,the granulars are much different than most. They are not consistant with each other, making volumn charges weigh alot different. Overall, other than that I was pleased, it does seem to burn cleaner.
 
Posts: 562 | Location: Michigan, US | Registered: 10 April 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of El Deguello
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quote:
Originally posted by James_B:
Thats it? It is just cleaner burning. I figured that 3F would burn faster than 2F since it is finer. Maybe, it isn't as important. I would have thought that there was a difference like there is for rifle powders, some are slower than others.


You're correct, FFF burns faster. It also raises pressures to a greater level than FF does, so it can take less of it to get the same MV. Consequently, if it is accurate, it will use less. Save some money. But it may not be as accurate. Only shooting will tell!

I've never used any of the "new" AP stuff. But I did use CleanShot back when. Same stuff, generally. I liked Clean Shot!


"Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen."
 
Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Spent a good bit of time with company representative a few weeks ago. On thing that struck me was that he suggested using a ball that was heavy for the charge. I assumed that this meant the pressure needed to build before the ball moved to get consistent velocities.
I have a couple pounds, but need to spend an evening or two burning them in my 54 flint lock?
Anyone tried them in a flinter?
Bfly


Work hard and be nice, you never have enough time or friends.
 
Posts: 1195 | Location: Lake Nice, VA | Registered: 15 March 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Black Fly:
Spent a good bit of time with company representative a few weeks ago. On thing that struck me was that he suggested using a ball that was heavy for the charge. I assumed that this meant the pressure needed to build before the ball moved to get consistent velocities.
I have a couple pounds, but need to spend an evening or two burning them in my 54 flint lock?
Anyone tried them in a flinter?
Bfly


NONE of the substitute powders I've tried will work in a flintlock, UNLESS you put ten grains or so of real BP in the bore first to "start the fire". Then you put the main charge of the subsitute powder on top of that. I use my priming horn to dump three panfuls of FFFFg into the bore, then load the sub powder & ball, then prime with the horn as usual!

Black MagIII people claim their powder will work in a flintlock, but I have never been able to find any!


"Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen."
 
Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by El Deguello:
quote:
Originally posted by Black Fly:
Spent a good bit of time with company representative a few weeks ago. On thing that struck me was that he suggested using a ball that was heavy for the charge. I assumed that this meant the pressure needed to build before the ball moved to get consistent velocities.
I have a couple pounds, but need to spend an evening or two burning them in my 54 flint lock?
Anyone tried them in a flinter?
Bfly


NONE of the substitute powders I've tried will work in a flintlock, UNLESS you put ten grains or so of real BP in the bore first to "start the fire". Then you put the main charge of the subsitute powder on top of that. I use my priming horn to dump three panfuls of FFFFg into the bore, then load the sub powder & ball, then prime with the horn as usual!

Black MagIII people claim their powder will work in a flintlock, but I have never been able to find any!


I have so far tried many of the real BP's in my flinters. Swiss is the one which works best since it ignites very fast and gives much faster Vo than the "dirtier" powders like Wano or Wasag. Haven't tried any of the US powders yet, however, they are hard to get in Europe anyway. In particular for a flinter, I like a fast ignition and a fast burning powder since it leaves less time to wobble the gun away from the target.

I like your signature: "Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen.". Reminds me of that Zappa song about the Huskys and the yellow snow ....
 
Posts: 9 | Location: Southwest Germany | Registered: 14 April 2006Reply With Quote
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