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I quickly admit to not knowing a lot about muzzleloaders but I have drawn an Iowa Deer tag in a Shotgun/Muzzleloader only area this December. I have a Knight MK 85 rifle I won years ago but I have never shot the rifle, no paperwork, etc. It is stainless, laminated stock, and is in 50 cal. It says Blackpowder only but I am assuming new replacements such as Pyrodex, etc. are all ok. Question is, the ignition system looks a lot like the percussion nipple I am used to but what are the best loads for this rifle, grains, pyrodex, etc. and what are best bullets, sabots, available today. Also, is it logical the ignition system is the traditional percussion cap? Probably will only get one shot. I appreciate any and all help. OK to PM me if you wish. York, SC | ||
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Moderator |
Well, you'll probably get more than one answer here! Anyway, in regards to your gun there is nothing wrong with a #11 cap. In regards to powder, there are quite a few opinions but my 2 choices are real black powder or loose pyrodex. In my 50, I usually use solid cast slugs but I cast them and have open sights. (not that the sights matter) My ranges are short, maybe 100 yards max but to be honest most are not past 50 yards. I use 80 grains of BP with a 320 gr slug. Sabots may shoot and load better but are so costly it is not conducive to regular target practice, just something to consider. If you are just starting and just need this gun to hunt a ML area, I'd suggest buying whatever the store closest to you is selling, both in powder and saboted bullets. For starters try 70 grains of whatever powder. Get some windex and pour some in a baby food jar or cup and put some cloth patches in it, and run one swab down the barrel after each shot you take. Get your gun sighted in, and then increase the powder charge until you are comfortable with the recoil or the group starts to open up. I don't know what the max your gun is rated for, but it is a quality rifle so I imagine you can shoot at least 150 grains in it, but that may not give you the best performance either. Once you have a load decided upon,then hold off on the swabbing to see how many shots you can take before it starts to get hard to load or the groups start opening up. Good luck and have fun! for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
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One of Us |
It seems to me that there aren't many participants in the BP board on this site. This may be due to where the BP board is exiled to, way down here. Mark is right on the money! I suggest you contact Knight and ask them for an operator's manual for that rifle. You are correct in your assumption that your rifle will use real BP, AND any of the BP substitutes available in the US or Canada. Use CCI No. 11 Magnum caps, and any powder you use will be ignited properly! IMO, musket caps are no better, but 209 primers are. However, 209's are NOT essential-if you don't have a 209 nipple, just use what's there. Your rifle will have a fast twist, so you can use any full-bore diameter conical bullet, or any of those "subcaliber bullets" that use sabots. Generally speaking, such rifles give their best accuracy at load levels that are somewhat under maximum, which for your rifle is 150 grains of Pyrodex pellets or the equival;ent. However, I would not use more than 120 grains, probably less. I prefer loose powder, and use a volume measure with it. Personally, I like Power Belt bullets, but many don't! However, I am not a sabot shooter, and have little use for the idea of shooting what are pistol bullets in sabots. Full-diameter conicals are much better! In addition, I use Pyrodex because it lets me shoot all afternoon withouty having to swab the bore to get the next shot loaded, but many people don't like it. They complain that it is too hard to get it all out when they clean the gun. That American Pioneer Powder, Pinnacle, or "Shockey's Gold" (all three same stuff) is also much cleaner burning than real BP, and easy to clean with nothing but water. "Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen." | |||
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One of Us |
Let me add a little on the topic, first and for most contact Knight Industries and get a manual for your rifle. It will tell you a lot that we can all tell you but it is betetr to have it in front of you to reference. As to ignitions system, yes it could be the #11 caps and CCI is as good a brand as any. Many will say the like remington or RWS (german company) but CCIs have never failed me when I shoot percussion. As to loads, you can use traditional black powder in either FFFg or FFg, Pyrodex R, or otehr loose powder substitutes like Triple 7. I personally like the pellets in my non-traditional BP rifle (I only own 2 out of my 20-30 BP rifles) due to ease of use, ease to carry, and in 50 caliber you can get eitehr 50 or 30 grains per pellet thus allowing you any combonation of powder grainage using pellets. There again loosepowder might be better to your liking, it is you that will use the rifle. Powebelts are the best projectile in these guns IMHO but as stated it is fast twist rate so stay with powerbelts, saboted bullets or heavy buffalo bullets. Rule of thumb from teh old timers is begin with a powder load equl to the caliber of the gun, in your case begin with 50 grains of powder and work your way up to a load that gives you consistant accuarcy and a load you can shoot several shots in a row without hurting your shoulder. Also keep in mind that what powder that does not burn in the barrel is thrown out of the barrel and wasted. So you can over load the rifle with powder that will be wasted. many will say 100 to 150 grains is a great load BUT I use 60 grains in my 45 flinter to kill deer all the time. You do not have to use a real heavy load to kill deer. Also keep in mind the weight of your projectile and teh max distance you will be shooting. work a load up that does good for that distance and the weight of your projectile. One of my inlines is a TC encore and I have only loade it ONE time with 150 grains. That was for a hunt in Ohio where the normal shot was at least 200 yards out. I took a nice doe at 210 yards or so. IF you can, buy a good book on muzzle loading that covers modern in-lines as well as primitive BP guns. Make sure whatb you buy has load data in it or all types of rifles. It will be money well spent if new to muzzle loader shooting IMHO. Good luck with the hunt but please take some advise from others above, contact Knight Industries and get a manual for your rifle, I am sure they are free of charge from Knight. | |||
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