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New guy here. Been considering the purchase of a #1S in 45-70. It would be my first #1, & first big bore rifle. My intent would be to hand load for accuracy & terminal ballistics. Although my son owns a #1V in 22-250 that does 1 MOA w/ factory ammo, my concern is the mixed input I get on #1 accuracy. Some report one ragged hole, some report selling their rifle in frustration. My personal feeling is poor accuracy in a well built rifle, is probably the result of the load. Any input based on experience would be greatly appreciated, as I'm really getting that big bore itch. Thanks in advance! | ||
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I have a Ruger #1S in 45-70 and the only bullet it doesn't like is a plain cast lead bullet. gas checked lead and jacketed bullets are usually around 1.5 inches or less at 100 yards. I have had 5 Ruger #1's(I still have 3 , 1B in 22-250 and 1A in 270) and they have all shot quite well | |||
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Accuracy problems in #1's are often the result of forearm fit and tension. The cheap, but effective fix is to make a spacer from plastic (Get one of those flat pieces of plastic, the kind that's used on English muffin bags or loaves of bread.). Remove the forearm and trim the plastic to fit the forearm hanger. Glue it in place with your favorite adhesive, then let it cure for 24hrs. Finally, re-install the forearm, but don't tighten the screw completely; i.e., leave it 1 or 2 turns from fully tight. By way of example, the forearm of my #1 was so tight that it wore the bluing off the bbl. where it made contact. C.E. Harris (of the NRA), who used to work for Ruger, recommended the above trick. And yes, my #1, a .243Win. shoots amazingly well now. Hope this helps, ...Maven | |||
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My ruger 45-70 has shot a .414 three shot group at 100 yards before. On a bright day when I could see well and was not nervous or aggravated. This is with factory Winchester with the nosler 300 grain bullets. This ammo is very good 45-70 ammo. I have not done anthing to it, but someone told me the 45-70's shoot best out of the box of all the #1's. Urban legion maybe. | |||
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Had mucho big problem with my #1 in 25/06. Sent it to my local smith who free floated the barrel, attached a new hanger, and glass bedded the action. It now shoots 1 1/2 in. at 200 yds. Yes they can be made to shoot well for very little money <$100. | |||
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I only shoot cast lead bullets in my Ruger #1 and 3 in 45-70. The #1 will do 1.25" with the Lyman #457122 330 gr. hollow point bullet. That's good enough for me. The 45-70 isn't a varmint rifle unless the varmint is a bear or big hog, and a 1.25" group is more tham plenty for them. Paul B. | |||
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Yep,They can make for a real hair puller if you let them.I have a #1 in 218 Bee that really kicked and beat me for a while.Then I read a article on them on another forum that said to "place a tight fitting o-ring on forearm bolt and only tighten enough to compress o-ring"this was the magic cure.Have done this on all my #1's. | |||
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When I purchased my #1b in 7mmSTW, it grouped close to 3 inches. I fully floated the barrel and had the factory trigger tuned which brought group sizes down to about an inch. My next step is to install the Hicks accurizer as shown in this link. I have heard a lot of good things about this device. http://www.eabco.com/HicksAccurizer1.html | |||
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GCF Heres an all important factor for me when buying a gun.What does the comp. garauntee?Let me put it this way,If I say hey lets go out to the range,and I'll show you how my gun x shoots x size groups.You know what?I'm damn sure that gun can do that and better.See I dont like the taste of legitimate crow,neither do these comps..So when I call ruger,and they say"Our rifles SHOULD shoot 1 moa,with premium ammo"I look at that statement and run scared.On the other hand when I call sako in finland and the head tech is insulted that I cant make his gun shoot sub 3/8 moa.You tell me how that speeks to you.Cheers. | |||
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I have a 1B in .243, and previously had a .270 in the same model. With both, I used the method recomended by Elmer Keith, that is putting a piece of live rubber under the fore end screw. It worked great with both rifles, taking them from 2 MOA to 1 MOA or slightly less. Cost? One bicycle inner tube, costing $2 or less will do 100 or so rifles. | |||
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I just found the copy of RIFLE magazine that has an artical on accuracy and the #1. I will scan and email it to anyone that is interested | |||
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Thanks for the article. Yep is big. but I got it. | |||
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gcf, The Ruger No.1 is my favorite mass produced factory available today. I've owned quite a few in the past including a 270 Wby Mag (B), 7x57 (RSI), 300 Win Mag (S), 338 Win Mag (S), and a 416 Rigby (H). All have shot very well. Some better than others, but all would shoot less than MOA at 100 yards with the proper handloads. Well, except the Rigby, but then that is a lot of gun in a No.1 and was more likely the shooter than the rifle. The No.1 has been around since 1969 and numerous tricks are out there to further accurize the rifles. If you want one, get one. I don't think you will be disappointed. If it doesn't produce sub minute of angle accuracy with good handloads, try a few of the washer tricks or the set screw. Basically there are only two ways that the No.1 won't be accurate. One is if it isn't straight and the other is if you have a bad barrel. Ruger's barrel problems in the 1980's were when they were buying their barrels from an outside vendor called Wilson. My 338 is one of those and the barrel is rough, but it is extremely accurate until I get about 30 rounds down the barrel without cleaning the copper out. I only have two No.1's now, the No.1 S in 338 Win Mag and the No.1 RSI in 7x57. I sold the 270 Wby for two reasons, one I couldn't get it through my thick skull to use a little tougher bullet than one designed for the 270 Winchester. Result was a tremendous amount destruction to whatever was shot with it at close range. Two, I just didn't care for the beavertail forearm. I much prefer the Alex Henry forearm style of the S model. It's trimmer and fits my hands better. I also like iron sights even if the primary sighting system is a scope. The 416 Rigby went away because I can't see owning a stopping cartridge in a single shot rifle. The 300 went away when I never took it into the mountains, because I was always grabbing the 338. The RSI needs a good trigger job, but is very accurate even with the 20" barrel and full length mannlicher style forearm. My last outing was 3/4" 3 shot groups at 100 yards. Should have been better but the trigger pull is heavy and rough. It wasn't my best day at the range either. You will likely have to do some trigger work on the new No.1's. Other than that, work up some handloads and see what it will do. It is rifle that comes to the shoulder very well and is very graceful. Well made, classic lines, good balance. | |||
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Hi Ruger fellas. Hers my story.. I got my Ruger#1 about 10 yrs ago..shot with it maybe 200 rounds with bad results,I was quite dissapointed,but I liked the gun and cal 4570. The manufacturin was bad,sights was not placed on the same line on the barrel,frontsight was bended to right,I needed to adjust the rear really much sideways to hit anything. Barrel was too short and light as my opinion,kicked like a mule with hot loads. What did I do..went to a good gunsmith..told him..take the barrel with sights and throw it. Assemble one 30" octagonal barrel,heavy and long one,add good open sights on top and one stokneck peepsight also,then bed the irons properly. Frontsihgt are Lymans,rears Winchesters 1895 original,the peep is Bettinsols,that I remove when go hunting with it. Now its a great gun,looks like a Sharps and is accurate as 4570 can be,as U know,its not a sniper cal but I can do 1-1.5" on 100m (111yds)with Hornadys #4502 350GR bullet,which I hunt with. I use also cast and copperplated cast bullets for normal practise on the range(cheaper) Sofar I have taken 670m/s velosity with this 4502 350GR bullet but will do proper tests when I get my new crono. That bullet and load have worked well in moosehunts,I use also 3006 and 375HH. I like the cal 45-70 really,and my modified Ruger"1 Elias | |||
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quote: Thought I'd take a minute to update this post. Purchased an '86 vintage 1S in 45-70, from a gent in Atlanta. Said it had been in his safe for 10-12 years or so. Not real pleased w/ the open sights (or the factory Reminton load), so decided to scope w/ a 2x7 VX-II Leupold - & work up some loads. Real happy w/ the scope on this platform. The right combination of IMR3031, Cast Performance 405 Flat Nose Gas Check, & Starline brass has shown me that this #1 at least, has great accuracy potential. Load developement for 350JSP's & 300JHP's is currently under way. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gcfron@swbell.net/detail?.dir=c297&.dnm=c2ee.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gcfron@swbell.net/detail?.dir=c297&.dnm=5422.jpg&.src=ph Regards - GCF "Sometimes you make eight - Sometimes you hit dirt" | |||
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The Ruger #1 is about as accurate as a single shot hunting rifle needs to be. It is a rare one that is a tackdriver though so don't expect it. If you want to get the accuracy to that of a good bolt action varmint rifle it's going to cost you big bucks, and nothing is guaranteed. It is a pretty rifle, different in design so just be happy with that. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal Cal Sibley | |||
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My .458 #1 hates cast bullets (due to a .460" bore commonly sized cast bullets just don't shoot worth a darn in it), but with jacketed it does well and is one of my favorite rifles. I used the rubber "O" ring (on the forearm bolt) method that Elmer Keith suggested way back in the 70's and that made a nice improvement. .22 LR Ruger M77/22 30-06 Ruger M77/MkII .375 H&H Ruger RSM | |||
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quote: What Cal says here is absolutely correct. To which I'll add that there aren't very many .45/70 varmint rifles, regardless of action type!! "Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen." | |||
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