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Remington Spartan rifles ?
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Has anyone shot one ? How are they, what can you expect in terms of accuracy, quality etc.
 
Posts: 237 | Registered: 15 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I have one in .308. It is not a great rifle, but it is OK for $235. First, I had to have a gunsmith drill and tap a Weaver scope rail to the top of the receiver in order to mount a scope.



Original trigger was terrible, so I had a gunsmith stone it down to about four pounds.

My biggest problem with accuracy is consistancy. Depending on the day, it will shoot 1-1/2" inch groups at 100 yards, or 3-1/2 inch groups. Also, for some reason I am always chasing zero from day to day. I bought it as a cheap rifle for my son to take to school at Auburn University in Auburn, Alabama (where student apartment break-ins are rampent). His apartment is only 40 miles from an Alabama black belt plantation he has permission to hunt.

It will definitely shoot "minute of deer" out to about 200 yards, so it fills the bill for our needs.
 
Posts: 1443 | Registered: 09 February 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by GAHUNTER:
I have one in .308. It is not a great rifle, but it is OK for $235.

FWIW I just picked one up, used but mint, in the traditional AK/SKS 7.62x39mm cartridge for $175, literally in 'as-new' condition. I scoped it with a 1-3x Weaver scope in 22LR-like rings and it worked slick, but the rings are right on each side of the turret. Using 154-grain Wolf import brand soft-points it print sub-nickle-sized (3/4" groups @ 50-yards). Haven't gone out to 100-yards yet, but will use PMC ammo for that test. The PMC softpoint 124grn load has been THE most accurate 7.62x39mm loading I've ever used, and has been so in 3 or more x39 rifles.

IMPRESSIONS of my Rem SPR18: Nice wood, but the fit could be a touch better. I plan to glass-bed the rear stock and add LokTite to the stock bolt screw. The metal (actions & barrel) is nice, but the cocking/break lever & triggerguard looked like they were sprayed with a black powder coat. I'd prefer a traditional-like blue or black phosphate finish. The takedown mechanism is slick! Just like a premium take-down shotgun; remove the foreend via a positive latch (embedded in forearm), open action and pull action out of the breech lock-up.

As far as being handy or fit (to me) it is about the handiest sporter I've ever handled! Points naturally and fits me perfectly, good cheek weld, length of pull was perfect too.

quote:
Original trigger was terrible, so I had a gunsmith stone it down to about four pounds.

You can go lower. Mine is at 3-pounds, after I worked on it again and it is as crisp as any trigger I've ever touched. By far, it was THE most sharpest and polished factory trigger parts I've ever seen. The sear edges were so sharp they'd cut you.

quote:
My biggest problem with accuracy is consistancy.

I betcha I bought mine so cheapo as the stock bolt was loose, so I'm quite sure the previous owner sold it as being 'inaccurate'. Please check your stock bolt. In fact, I'd pulled the bolt out, put Goop around the bolt boss, then LokTite on the threads and used a 2' long machinist screwdriver to secure the stock bolt.

My only QUESTION is ... WHEN (if?) will Remington OFFER EXTRA BARRELS!
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: 15 March 2007Reply With Quote
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I should add that on the one I have, the forend is floated free from the barrel, apparently from the factory. I can't see any evidence anyone else did it.

I can easily slip a $1 US bill into and around ALL forend areas, less where the latch connects. I'd opine that any user having one that prints inconsistently should open up the barrel are to free-float the barrel.

Also, the rear pinions on the forend metal trim should NOT contact the barrel breech area. This is a known problem for 2-piece stocks. You want/need a few thousands space.
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: 15 March 2007Reply With Quote
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i've got one in '06. it sure lets you know it's a 6 lb. gun! my trigger was atrocious also...drag, catch, catch, drag, drag...booom!.
cleaned it up , it's still a little long but much smoother, breaks better and lighter. i'm not sure just how short i want to go though, being a trigger block type. my mausers are all timneys with barely any perceptable travel , but i don't know if i trust this one to get very close to that.
mine will shot about 2 inches on a good day. not too bad for a 225 dollar gun. i've shot both factory and hand loads, doesn't show much prference, in fact the best consistancy i get is fron rem. 165gr.
my wood fit is decent, but nothing is brought down flush with the steel(typical of cheapo guns) wouldn't take much to make it decent looking. maybe a little clean-up/better definition in the grip/butt area and some flutes in the comb would make it pretty nice looking.
sure is a handy little deer gun,easy to carry and all that.
i got some AEG(?) steel .22 caliber x 1 inch rings for it. replaced the silly little thumb wheels and studs with some allen head cap screws counter-bored into the claw and made a little lug that's screwed onto the rear ring and sits in the slot in the reciever to combat the recoil problem. works great!... just about had my scope fall of after about 6 shots before i did that!
 
Posts: 415 | Location: no-central wisconsin | Registered: 21 October 2008Reply With Quote
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