Ian, I note in your post about this rifle model that you improved your trigger. Can you explain the trigger mechanism in simple terms? I want to do the same with mine, but all I see when I remove the wood from the gun to look at the trigger is a black "box" with the trigger lever sticking out the bottom.

Without knowing basically what the mechanism is inside the "box", I am reluctant to "open" the box. Don't want springs, etc., flying round the inside of my shop.

Bit by bit the trigger is improving on its own, but it has a long way to go. When I first got the rifle the trigger pull was over 10 pounds. Now it is down to about 6 pounds or so, just through shooting the rifle a bunch. Still, as mine remains a .222 Remington, that is a heavier trigger than appropriate for that cartridge.

BTW, I was really happy to see your post, though I didn't get to look at the pictures. My dial-up (all that we have here) is too slow to download all those photo bytes.

My particular rifle came with a very, very nice European walnut butt stock, and I got a Czech factory 1" steel scope mount for it from a friend in Prague at no cost. He is the Czech arms industry rep to the U.S. Consulate there.

Any info you can give on the trigger mechanism will be greatly appreciated.

BTW, with about 20.5 grs of 4198, mine truly is a half-MOA shooter even with the very heavy trigger. But then, being a .222 that's neither really great nor a surprise.

A.C.

The nice thing about the trigger group on these rifles is that it's very easy to service. Once you've removed the butstock, drive out the two pins holding the "black box" to the reciever, but make sure you've cocked the action first to dispell any worries about flying springs. Then slide the assembly down and out (everything is still neatly contained at this point). From here, you will readily identify each part as there are no links between hammer and trigger (why it's so heavy and can only be optimized to about 3lbs). With one hand relieving the tension from the main coil spring on the hammer, pull the trigger, breaking the sear and relax the main spring. Now the main spring and its guide can be set aside. Next, you'll need to remove the crossbolt safety. This requires you to punch a small pin out right above the safety that is retaining a small coilspring and steel ball. While two components are quite small, they won't fly out and there removal and disposition can be very deliberate. The safety barrel can now be slid out to the left (that side is flanged). Next, the hinge pins for the trigger and hammer can be punched and their respective components removed.
the only other spring is the trigger return spring and it's a flat spring secured with a screw... the trigger can be negotiated around it without removal.

Both sear surfaces on mine were quite rough and engagement was pretty generous leading to more travel than I wanted. Reducing the engagement and stoning of the surfaces got mine down to a pretty crisp 3-3.5 pounds.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

Incidentally, I made a replacement safety barrel as I needed one for left handed opperation.

I hope this might help with your tuning.

Best,
Ian

Thank you very much Ian. That is exactly what I needed to know.

For the last couple of years, somehow stuff has been accumulating on the workbenches in my shop. Everyone used to remark at how it was cleaner than most surgical operating rooms. Now they ask me how I can even find the benches under all that crap.

So, I was too scared to take the little Brno apart...if I ever lost a spring or detent ball (or anything smaller than a Centurion tank) in that environment, it would become an unidentified archeological trinket on some dig 3,000 years from now. And as I find my friend is no longer at the Embassy in Prague, I likely couldn't replace any lost parts now either.

Now I feel safe to proceed. Thanks again, and best wishes to you and yours for the Holidays.