I might try making a block similar to your idea. Might just cure the problem, although I think I'll use aluminum. I have some aircraft grade aluminum that I've used to make scope blocks with and it has worked out fairly well. Oh well. All I need to do now is find the time.
A thought just came to me on that buggered up hole. I did this on a marlin the had a scope mounted on it, and when a horse rolled on it in the scabbard, the mount sheared off leaving so terribly screwed up scope mount screw holes. I filled the holes with J B Weld and redrilled and tapped them. I haven't had a problem with that fix yet.
Paul B.

I recently purchased a #1 and have been reading everything I can find on the subject of #1 accuracy.
Within the last 2 years I recall an artical on this subjact in either Rifle magazine or Shooting Times. I have looked high and low in my house and gun room without success.
Does anyone have a copy of this artical??
Thanks

Interesting. I did the same thing with my #1 .25-06; made a thin wedge and kept tapping it in and shooting until it appeared to shrink groups. Then with the wedge at its best spot I filled the gap between the hanger and barrel with steel bedding compound. Once it set up I removed the wedge, but the rifle never seemed to shoot as well as it did with just the wood. I haven't fooled with the rifle much since then but the process looks like it might be worth investigating.
C.G.B.

One thing to remember is, when changing the space between the hanger and the barrel you are also changing the bedding of the forearm.
If your barrel is free floated or set up to apply pressure on the forearm tip you will nearly double the space at the forearm tip when you bent the hanger down by 0.030" + or -.

So when you have found the right pressure on the hanger you may want rebed the the hanger tip to the origional space at the front of the forearm. Even with a set screw you would have to do that. You may want to install a shim under the forearm tip to put pressure on the barrel.

My gun smith Bill Leeper says that presure on the forearm tip will at most times shoot better with the #1 rather than free float. Some thing to try.

I have an H&R Ultra also in 25-06 that I first free floated with a 1/8 rubber washer and then put 15# pressure on the forarm tip with a small wedge glued in place. Then filled the barrel channel with DOW FOAM in a spray can, put the gun back together and let the foam expand for three days and removed the wedge. Don't rush the foam! I used paste wax to keep the foam from sticking to the barrel.This has worked very well on the H&R and also on a M70 300 Win Mag.

I call this a dampened free float. The foam is quite spingy.

Perhaps the foam is a bit tricky on the #1 because of the hanger, sping and the angeled barrel nut?

Fred M.

Guns magazine Dec 1994 "Tuning the Ruger No. 1" has plenty of pix to boot. Email frankflt@att.net and will make arrangements to copy and send.

Went to my favorite search engine "copernic" and found the following:
Huntingnut website
Sept 2000 no.191 issue of Rifle mag.
Handloader mag. no.208, pg.60
Brownell's sells several accurizer's for no.1
Good luck finding what you need.