Howdy.

I know this has probably been covered many times, but.................

I have 3 Ruger No 1 rifles now, and no manual for either that actually describes the two trigger screws or how they could be carefully tuned to give me a slightly lighter and crisper trigger pull.

Could a kind person or persons steer me in the right direction?

Many thanks in advance. "Bo"

bocash3 go on down thru the forum and i think you will find the answer.good luck, most people tell me they see no difference when adjusting these screws.

I'm kinda the blind leading the blind here, but...

I agree, the "newer" models with two adjustment screws seem to be useless. The "older" models with three screws enjoy reports of true adjustment.

Moyers makes an adjustable trigger for the #1 that's reasonably priced and easy to install.

Just change out the trigger. The screws are for show. I played with mine and the trigger guage read the same. I had a smith do a trigger job on it and now its about 15oz.

You cannot improve, nor even change, the trigger pull on a Ruger with the two-screw triggers either by adjusting them or leaving them alone! To get a better pull on a two-screw Ruger, you must replace the trigger. The Moyers 3-screw is just a steel reproduction of the early No. 1 triggers, and those WERE adjustable.....

Here is the newer factory trigger. Note that it doesn’t have a sear engagement screw (the third screw) as the old style No1 triggers have/had.


Here is a Moyers trigger installed. As mentioned by others in this forum the Moyers is just a copy of the old style trigger. In this picture the third screw is shown.


And just an FYI, here is a picture of the Kepplinger trigger installed. Note that the Kepplinger does not use the sear/trigger link and engages the sear directly.

Excellent pictures, MickinColo. When did Ruger change the innards of the No.1? The link between the sear and trigger is not shown in either de Haas's book or in the Ruger patent drawings. I've wondered why Ruger bothered with a separate trigger and sear; some of the older single shots with a similar arrangement of sear and hammer just made the trigger an extension of the sear.

quote:

.

Posted 20 March 2008 10:45 Hide Post
I'm kinda the blind leading the blind here, but...

I agree, the "newer" models with two adjustment screws seem to be useless. The "older" models with three screws enjoy reports of true adjustment.
My experience with the 3 screw model is that there is a sequence in the adjustments and if you get it wrong find a smith that specializes in them cause you won't get it to work ever.

quote:

Originally posted by asdf:
Excellent pictures, MickinColo. When did Ruger change the innards of the No.1? The link between the sear and trigger is not shown in either de Haas's book or in the Ruger patent drawings. I've wondered why Ruger bothered with a separate trigger and sear; some of the older single shots with a similar arrangement of sear and hammer just made the trigger an extension of the sear.

Asdf,

I wish I was more of a historian then I am but I’m not. I'm sure someone here can help shed some light on the changes and when they happened.

As you stated, the original drawing that Ruger submitted to the US Patent Office in 1967, shows a rifle that is somewhat of a different animal than we have today.


As I remember the first No 1 I owned had a trigger like the Moyers trigger, which was in 1976.

What your looking at is the Ruger Type 1 three screw trigger. It's the only linkless trigger Ruger made, and it was a very good one.

The Ruger Type 2 three screw trigger is the one with the link, the Ruger Type 3 trigger is the useless two screw trigger and that also has the link.
SS

Thank you, Ruger # 1, for the information.

The No.1 de Haas had apart showed a different transfer block (if that's what it is called--part 16 in the above drawing). In the patent drawing, this is hinged below the firing pin, but in de Haas's drawing it is hinged above it. In one of the old British singles shown in the de Haas books, there was no transfer block; the hammer hit the firing pin directly. That Ruger has been moving this part about may indicate they have been trying to solve problems with weak ignition.

Hey guys I'm back...I just brought another Ruger #1 in the 9.4X74R. I had to do it, I have the ammo,brass and the dies. I want to see how the single shot will compare to my Valmet double rifle in 9.3X74.

Do you think I need to order the Moyers trigger?

Thanks,

Glenn

quote:

Do you think I need to order the Moyers trigger?

Glenn

Don’t know.

I’ve installed a number of Moyers triggers on No 1s and they all benefited in some degree with the change.

I have five No 1s at this time and here are the results from the trigger jobs (no additional fitting was done on these rifles other then honing the sear faces on a few).

7mm Rem Mag 1B, Factory 5# 14oz, Moyers 3# 6oz
25-06 1B, Factory 5# 2oz, Moyers 3# 4oz
204 Ruger 1B, Factory 5#, Moyers 2# 6oz
7mmX57mm RSI, Factory 5# 4oz, Moyers 2# 8oz

FYI on the Kepplinger trigger (shown above).

220 Swift 1V, Factory 2# 6oz, Kepplinger 1# 4oz unset and set it doesn’t even move the scale (it’s truly a hair trigger).

MickinColo,

Thanks for the detailed response! For the $50.00 bucks it is a go for sure. I have lightend or replaced the triggers on my varmint guns and single action handguns, so I can appriciate the improvement. Until I saw this thread I never thought about changing out the factory trigger on a NO.1

Let me ask you about your 7MM rem Mag, have you done anything to the foregrip to improve your group size? I own two 7MM STW's that I know should shoot tighter groups.

Thanks,

Glenn

quote:

Originally posted by powhatan42:
MickinColo,

Thanks for the detailed response! For the $50.00 bucks it is a go for sure. I have lightend or replaced the triggers on my varmint guns and single action handguns, so I can appriciate the improvement. Until I saw this thread I never thought about changing out the factory trigger on a NO.1

Let me ask you about your 7MM rem Mag, have you done anything to the foregrip to improve your group size? I own two 7MM STW's that I know should shoot tighter groups.

Thanks,

Glenn

powhatan42,

I haven’t done anything with the forend on these rifles other than make sure I torque the forend screw the same anytime it’s removed.

I have played with floating the forend on one rifle back in the 80s. It was a 1B in 7mm Rem Mag (I have owned three 7mms) and no matter what I did, the darn thing wouldn’t shoot. I was going to rebarrel it but someone offered me more money than I thought it was worth so I sold it. He rebarreled it and I heard that it was a “tack driver†after that (I’m always a little skeptical when I hear the words “Tack Driverâ€).

I know people that drill and tap the hanger or install an Accurizer and apply pressure to the bottom of the barrel to tune the harmonics, but I just use forend tip pressure to do about the same thing. I would drill and tap the hanger if I thought it would help but these rifles aren’t bad shooters. You may want to try this or an Accurizer out.

One thing I think you should consider is changing out the hammer for a Moulds Speed Hammer or have a smith that knows what he’s doing lighten the hammer you have. The strike of that heavy Ruger hammer causes gun movement right at the time of shot start.

Here is a very detailed description of the Moyers trigger and the steps required for installation.

http://www.realguns.com/archives/063.htm

When did Ruger make the linless trigger? I have heard the first triggers were steel but I haven't seen one yet.

I've got an early No. 1 in the 30XX serial no. range and it has the link and three adjustment screws - two external and one internal. Another in the 131-123xx serial no. range has the same trigger. I haven't pulled the stocks off of a 131-368xx gun but externally the trigger appears identical as does another in the 133-08xxx range. I'll pull the stocks and post the info to this link later.

Incidently Ruger applied the barrel warning between the 131-123xx gun and the 131-366xx guns.

The Ruger No. 1s are fairly popular in Alaska esp.in the larger calibers. Since there is little need for small calibers up here sometimes the small calibers go relatively cheap like the early .243 I bought. We have a gunshow this weekend; I always hope to find another buy.

quote:

What your looking at is the Ruger Type 1 three screw trigger. It's the only linkless trigger Ruger made, and it was a very good one.

The Ruger Type 2 three screw trigger is the one with the link, the Ruger Type 3 trigger is the useless two screw trigger and that also has the link.
SS

The Ruger linkless triggers were steel. I think you would have to find one of the first 100 made for it to have that trigger.

No need to pull the stocks, use this as a guide.
Your # 131-368XX = 1978, should have a three screw trigger.

1967 - Ruger linkless three screw trigger.
1967 - 1980 Ruger three screw trigger.
1980 - 2008 Ruger two screw trigger.

Barrel warning started in 1977.

Please don't forget, none of this is cut and dry, there will always be some under and overlap of the years and numbers.
SS

MickinColo,

quote:

know people that drill and tap the hanger or install an Accurizer and apply pressure to the bottom of the barrel to tune the harmonics, but I just use forend tip pressure to do about the same thing. I would drill and tap the hanger if I thought it would help but these rifles aren’t bad shooters. You may want to try this or an Accurizer outOne thing I think you should consider is changing out the hammer for a Moulds Speed Hammer or have a smith that knows what he’s doing lighten the hammer you have. The strike of that heavy Ruger hammer causes gun movement right at the time of shot start.

quote:

Thanks for getting back! The gun is a No.1 that started out as a 458 win. I didn't see any elephants that needed to be put down, so I rebarreled the gun during the 7MM STW craze. The barrel is a Shilen heavy contour in stainless steel,with a custom laminated birch stock. I took this gun along with a No.1 factory S.S. in 7MM STW laminated stock to Montana on a Elk and Mule deer hunt. The first gun with the Shilen bvarrel experianced scope damamge on the flight back, however Leupold did the right thing and gave me a brand new scope.

It looks like I will be spending more time changing and tuning this rifle.

Thanks,

Glenn

If your interested in changing, shooting, and tuning this rifle check out the Ruger # 1 group at:
www.groups.yahoo.com/group/RUGER-1

A lot of good Info in that group on the # 1.
SS

quote:

Originally posted by Ruger # 1:
If your interested in changing, shooting, and tuning this rifle check out the Ruger # 1 group at:
www.groups.yahoo.com/group/RUGER-1

A lot of good Info in that group on the # 1.
SS

The Ruger Group is a good source of information.

Here is a page that does a pretty good job of showing how a Moyers Trigger should be installed.

http://www.realguns.com/archives/063.htm

There are a couple of things wrong on this page.

The picture were he shows and numbers the pins that need to be removed is reversed.

He had to trim the trigger/link pin. In my experience you shouldn’t need to trim this pin if you use enough pressure putting it back in.

Thanks for all the trigger information. I still don't know if it is the stainless steel or the chrome molly finish is the desired Moyer's trigger.

Is the Yahoo site just for Yahoo members, or is there a way to sign in as a guest?

Glenn

Anyone can join the Ruger # 1 group, no cost to join and they have over 900 dedicated # 1 members, like I said lots of Info, if you dont like it you can just leave.

As far as the trigger, there is no difference in the two other that one is black CM and the other in raw stainless, one is not any better than the other, it's what you desire that counts.
SS

The Ruger Group is a good source of information.

Here is a page that does a pretty good job of showing how a Moyers Trigger should be installed.

http://www.realguns.com/archives/063.htm

There are a couple of things wrong on this page.

The picture were he shows and numbers the pins that need to be removed is reversed.

He had to trim the trigger/link pin. In my experience you shouldn’t need to trim this pin if you use enough pressure putting it back in.[/QUOTE]



He really screwed up the first write up he did,
used the wrong springs, then because it did not work down graded the trigger as more or less a waste of money. If you cant get the Moyers trigger down close to two pounds you probably did something wrong.
SS

quote:

Originally posted by powhatan42:
Thanks for all the trigger information. I still don't know if it is the stainless steel or the chrome molly finish is the desired Moyer's trigger.

Is the Yahoo site just for Yahoo members, or is there a way to sign in as a guest?

Glenn

You have to become a member of the Yahoo group to view everything there.

As for the Moyers Trigger, IMO, buy the stainless steel model. Moyers triggers are some of the roughest casting I’ve had to deal with that cost more than 50 bucks. The triggers are cast too thick, too ruff, too clumsy, have a flat spot on the back of the trigger bow, and overall are just ugly.

With about 2 hours of file work and polishing the Moyers trigger can be an attractive improvement to your rife.

If you try to file the Steel model into shape, you’ll need to blue it. Cold bluing doesn’t cut it so you’ll need to pay additional money to have it re-blued. If you want to install a Moyers trigger in the ruff, either one will work, they look somewhat the same in the ruff with the steel one being a little darker.

Thanks Again for all your input!

Glenn