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Rolling Block in 50-140
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I recently acquired a Navy arms barreled action in 50-140, came with a a stock and some brass but other than that it will take a little work to get up and going. I plan on only shooting black powder through it ( DUH I guess right?).

I contacted Navy arms but they produced these rifles at their old factory before they moved. All records and info has since been turned over the BATFE and they couldn't help me with any of my Q's?

SO has anybody else heard of these barreled actions? I look forward to getting it up and running maybe even shoot it a little (heh) I don't have a 50-140 die set but I do have access to 50-90 dies (would these work?) just to slightly neck size and seat bullets with? I have asked these Q's elsewhere but its tough getting answers other than "boy don't spend too much money on brass, You're only going to shoot it once and sell it"


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Posts: 72 | Location: Bean town, Ohio | Registered: 11 May 2006Reply With Quote
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Wonderwolf: Ken Waters discusses this rifle in his chapter on modern single-shots in the Ned Roberts book, "The Single Shot Breechloading Rifle."


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Posts: 16677 | Location: Las Cruces, NM | Registered: 03 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Ask the Gun forum at Brownells ! Buffalo arms has the reloading dies for it ! As for it being sold by Navy arms ! I wish you luck !


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Posts: 578 | Location: PA | Registered: 21 March 2007Reply With Quote
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I have a 50-90 sharps rifle myself. What questions do you have? Buffalo Arms is now your new best friend:

www.buffaloarms.com

They have everything you need to shoot that gun. I'm not sure that I understand what you have? You have a stock, but it's not fitted to the action? Do you just need help acquiring all the "stuff" to reload for it?

I would only shoot real blackpowder from it. That case is huge and smokeless loads will be problematic in it. Start with the cheaper BP, like Goex FFg or Fg first, until you get the hang of loading for it. Then, if you want to really see what the accuracy potential is, you may want to switch to a "better" BP, like Swiss F or F and 1/2.

You can buy precast bullets from Buffalo Arms, or you can buy a bullet mold from them or any of a number of custom mold makers and cast your own bullets. You will need to know the twist rate of the rifling for an approximate "fit" to bullet weight. It will save you excessive experimenting with different bullets. My barrel has a 1-26" twist rate, and prefers the 600-675 gr bullets. If your twist is "slower", you may want a lighter bullet.

Your 50-90 dies should work, as long as the brass you have will chamber in your gun now. You may want a set of -140 dies anyway. Plan on annealing your brass often, and trimming it to length the first couple times you shoot it.

Also, a book you should REALLY consider getting is:

Shooting Buffalo Rifles of the Old West, by Mike Venturino (I probably spelled his last name wrong-sorry Mike.).

Buffalo Arms usually has this book in stock. If you haven't loaded BP rifle cartridges before, I would buy and read the book before you load your first cartridge.

Feel free to ask here or PM me with anything else you need to know.


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Posts: 1147 | Location: Bismarck, ND | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With Quote
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Sorry should have been a little more specific and not let so many details to assumptions.

I currently load blackpowder in a 1874 Sharps in 45-70 as well as cast for it and and currently am messing with paper patched bullets

The rifle needs a dovetail cut in it for a front sight and I'm currently working on a rear sight for it. front sight wont take long as soon as I get on a mill to do it. I was mostly just asking about the caliber and the particular make of the rifle. I've heard good things about them and it seems the one I have is a pretty standard expample. Trigger needs work but the fit and finish is good. Better than my 43 Spanish Rolling block lol. I have a 515gr lyman mold I will start off using at first but I plan on getting a custom Paper patch mold if I like the rifle enough from a guy in canada who makes great molds. The brass is $2.66 a pop from BA and they will get a order from me after I shoot the rifle and determine how much I'm going to need,I am experienced with annealing brass as well so no problem there.


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Posts: 72 | Location: Bean town, Ohio | Registered: 11 May 2006Reply With Quote
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Is this one just for fun, for hunting, or for competition? How much does your rifle weigh, and what's your barrel length and twist rate?

Mine's a 13 pound gun, and with a 34" barrel, it's not at all uncomfortable to shoot, even with the 675 gr's. I had terrible accuracy with the 450 gr Lyman bullets (probably due to my twist rate), ok accuracy with an RCBS 515 gr, and better with the 675 Saeco bullets I bought from Buffalo Arms. I'm wanting to try the 650 Hoch mold next. Midway lists them for a cheaper price than ordering direct from Hoch.

I keep going back and forth on whether or not I want to try a paper patch bullet. I may buy some bullets from Buffalo Arms to try, but I'm concerned about keeping the fouling soft and don't want to swab between every shot. Are you using a grease cookie under your patched bullets?

The Lee Shaver rear sights aren't too bad. I'm shooting a Pedersolli rear tang long range soule sight now. It's ok, but not very precise for long range work.

I started off with Bell brass, before Starline started making it, now I use Starline brass. It's definitely better quality than the Bell stuff. I haven't tried the 50 basic brass myself.


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Posts: 1147 | Location: Bismarck, ND | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With Quote
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Wonderwolf ! Please post the web/ Phone/ or what ever info you have for the fellow in Canada who makes molds, some years back I had a custom mold made by Hock ! sent it back ! was off center .022 he sent my money back when I asked him to fix it !


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Posts: 578 | Location: PA | Registered: 21 March 2007Reply With Quote
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http://kal.castpics.net/


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Posts: 72 | Location: Bean town, Ohio | Registered: 11 May 2006Reply With Quote
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Navy Arms sold several roller actions over the years and at least one of them was made by Pedersoli. One particular Pedersoli action didn't have a proper extractor-travel limiter and so in that action it's possible to load a cartridge in front of the extractor, thus jamming the rifle. Not a big deal to fix but somewhat frustrating in the field if not caught beforehand.

Several years ago I reviewed this action against the Uberti high wall action in comparison and consideration for a special project by a major manufacturer. The Uberti won, mainly because of the extractor issue. The Navy Arms action was well made but poorly adapted by the Italian engineeers. I had quite a conversation with Dick Trenk about this, he actually called 'Mr Pedersoli'(presumably THE Mr Pedersoli) about the action.

IMO the action is quite safe but needs to be checked for proper extractor travel limits among other things. Sorry, can't help with opinions on the barrel except to say that BP is the way to go unless you really LIKE recoil!
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Mine's a 13 pound gun, and with a 34" barrel, it's not at all uncomfortable to shoot, even with the 675 gr's.


I think a heavy bullet would be appropriate for this size case. Such as 650 mention above. I would put some serious though into the stock design. Pistol grip and wide flat shotgun style butt will be easier to shoot. I think this gun should kick quite a bit, if loaded to full potential.
 
Posts: 1226 | Location: New England  | Registered: 19 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Steve Brooks just lives up the road in Walkerville, MT. He makes a lot of 50 caliber moulds. The one my brother shoots in his Shiloh 50-90 and his buddy in his 50-140 is the cataloged 650gr RN.

www.brooksmolds.com

Rich

In a Shiloh Sharps or HIgh Wall you can approach 500 NE 3 1/4" power (and recoil) levels.
 
Posts: 23062 | Location: SW Idaho | Registered: 19 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the bullet mold makers !


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Posts: 578 | Location: PA | Registered: 21 March 2007Reply With Quote
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