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Are there accuracy differences between these two? Do they both need mods to the forend, Trigger work etc? What kind of accuracy is realistic? Thanks NRA Patron member | ||
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One of Us |
This is a personal preference issue. I've owned, shot, and successfully hunted several of both models. I think I can confidently say that the Browning is as accurate of a single shot as I've ever seen. The Ruger #1's I've owned, to include two at present are both sub MOA, the .300 H&H prefers Hornady factory loads over my handloads, and the .375 H&H prefers my handloads with 250gr TTSX bullets. The Rugers are a little lighter but both are comfortable to carry while stalk hunting. I owned a Browning in 7mm Mag that had the poly finish removed and converted to an oil finish. Very elegant and a super tack driver. JP Sauer Drilling 12x12x9.3x72 David Murray Scottish Hammer 12 Bore Alex Henry 500/450 Double Rifle Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock 6.5x55 Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock .30-06 Walther PPQ H2 9mm Walther PPS M2 Cogswell & Harrison Hammer 12 Bore Damascus And Too Many More | |||
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If you think you want the Browning, I think Biebs have a couple for sale. There's also a really good buy on a Ruger in .375H&H on classifieds. JP Sauer Drilling 12x12x9.3x72 David Murray Scottish Hammer 12 Bore Alex Henry 500/450 Double Rifle Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock 6.5x55 Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock .30-06 Walther PPQ H2 9mm Walther PPS M2 Cogswell & Harrison Hammer 12 Bore Damascus And Too Many More | |||
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I would also say there are more style and preference differences between these two than functional. Which one do you like? | |||
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One of Us |
the 1885 is a winchester hi wall and the ruger a modern euro design. if you want to customize the ruger isd much easier to work with. ruger is cheaper than the 1885 the 1885 is probably a bit more accurate. like anything else it just depends on which one you like better and what the wallet can afford | |||
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I have several of both and each has its advantages. From my experience the 1885 have been very accurate right out of the box in all calibers while some of the No. 1s have been quite finicky accuracy wise. The No. 1 is lighter and usually shorter which makes it handier especially if hunting from a blind. If stalking I prefer the No. 1 as it has a safety that at least blocks the trigger. The 1885 has no manual safety and it is difficult to cock the hammer if you have an overhanging scope. In this respect the No. 1 might be considered to be a bit safer. The finish on the 1885 is better than the recent No.1s as is the wood quality. As noted, the glossy finish on the 1885 can be removed but it is not an easy process. | |||
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Have had the Brownings and are a very nice rifle, but find I like the No.1's more. Seems to be easier to handle while hunting and for accuracy not any differences I could detect. As mentioned the Browning harkens back to previous times whereas the No.1 does both, past and future so to speak. Recently built a No.3 in 6BR and some said you will have to do a lot of work on that forend to get it to shoot. The forend is secured to a hanger welded to the bottom of the action and does not interfere with the barrel other than wood touching in some spots while on the bag/bench. Very easy to remove a thin layer of barrel channel on the wood. Did that and found no change in accuracy for the rifle prior to that step shot with good loads well under half moa and still does. For full disclosure my No.1 and No. 3 have new Douglas barrels on them due to the calibers I wanted. No.1 in 22-250 w/ 7 twist 26" barrel and 80gr. SMK's is a real performer out to the 1000yd. target. Switch the barrel to 348 Win. and hunt anything in North America. No.3 in 45/70 and now set up in the 6BR. Ruger's trigger not the best, but mine are hunting rifles not bench rifles and can live with them. Understand the Browning trigger is an absolute nightmare to work on if one needs to do so. The internals of the Ruger are built stout and not that hard to disassemble and re assemble other than that extractor a bit tricky to get in proper spot. No.1 and 3 basically the same other than the lever mechanism. Have looked during lots of gun shows and yet to find just a No.1/No.3 action for sale. Avid bench shooter told me to use a Rem. 700 for the 6BR build and that is not a bad choice, but no class whatsoever or "soul" as we Harley riders claim. | |||
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I've looked at 1885's but every one that I've found for sale has the long, heavy barrel and just don't feel right to me. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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Instructor, If you don’t mind saying, who has done the barrel work for you on the No. 1 rifles? Thanks
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I am only some dozen or so miles from Douglas Barrel Co. and know the owner so they do the barrels and install also. You can check their web site and determine which barrel profile you may want, but give them a call and ask for Mr. Tim Gardner, owner. The recent 6BR barrel was sent to Jim Kobe for drilling and tapping of scope bases for Douglas was not doing that activity at the time. Some ask why I would do these barrel changes on the Rugers and simple answer a new/different caliber much less expensive than a new entire rifle plus whatever caliber I happen to be after at the time. | |||
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If I had a choice of the current Low Wall and the #1 in the same cartridge, I'd take the Low Wall. The High Wall is a heavy gun, about a pound more than a Ruger, but, for bigger cartridges, nicer to shoot. So, that depends on whether you want to pack it on long walks, or take it to the range. My 300H&H 1885 is 10lb 2oz with a 4.5-14x44 Zeiss Conquest. Very nice to shoot, bit heavy for long walks. Haven't had an 1885 that wouldn't shoot good out of the box. Ruger isn't bad to get apart and back together, just need to retain the firing spring, 1885 is a little trickier, but, I have done it in my lap in the livingroom, and on the bench at the range. The B78 is a different story, not fun. Krieghoff Classic 30R Blaser Stevens 044-1/2 218 Bee Ruger #1A 7-08 Rem 700 7-08 Tikka t3x lite 6.5 creedmo Tikka TAC A1 6.5 creedmo Win 1885 300H&H. 223Rem Merkel K1 7 Rem mag CCFR | |||
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I wanted my rifle for hunting the woods in typical eastern NY/PA.I cut the 28"to 22" .Not really any velocity loss with the 45-70 cartridge .Handier and lighter for that hunting ! With scope . | |||
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Yes, the Japanese Browning/Winchester High walls are a nightmare to disassemble due to the twin coil springs. Modernization is not a good thing. I have worked on them but would not own one. Rugers a child can disassemble. Now, I have a Uberti High wall in 38-55 for sale; beautiful striped walnut stock. PM me if interested. $1200. Made like originals with a leaf spring. Color cased frame. Marble tang sight. | |||
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Based on your question and its an opinion pole I would prefer the Ruger no. 1S or FWT, hands down for a hunting rifle and no nostalgia involved, its a better rifle IMO... Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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