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ruger no 1 trigger
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i recently bought a n0. 1 ruger . can anyone tell me what the two adjustment screws in the bottom of the trigger do.
 
Posts: 315 | Registered: 16 March 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ho:
i recently bought a n0. 1 ruger . can anyone tell me what the two adjustment screws in the bottom of the trigger do.


Yes. The rear one "theoretically" reduces trigger pull weight by easing off on trigger adjustment spring tension. The front one is the "sear engagement adjustment screw." Basically, the 2-screw (current type) triggers are very poor regarding adjustability. As a matter of fact, I have yet to find that "adusting" the two-screw type triggers do anything to improve or worsen the trigger pull at all!

The early three-screw No. 1 triggers are much better, and the two types can be swapped. There is an aftermarket three-screw type available, which is essentially a copy of the three-screw original, BUT made of steel rather than aluminum. It is called a Moyers. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/catsearch.aspx?c=3492&p=4816 That Kepplinger SST is also excellent, commenurate with its' price, of course. But not too expensive for a No. 1.

The Canjar single-set trigger made for the No. 1 is excellent either set or unset, IF you can find one for sale!!

It is a bloody shame that Ruger cannot see fit to put a decent, steel adjustable trigger on such an otherwise fine rifle!!


"Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen."
 
Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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thanks for the info
 
Posts: 315 | Registered: 16 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Several years back "Rifle" (I think) magazine had an article about slicking up a Number 1 trigger. Fairly simple as I remember. I think the magazine is up at my lake cabin. I'll look for it next time I am there.
 
Posts: 930 | Registered: 25 December 2001Reply With Quote
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There is no "sear engagement adjustment screw" on the Ruger two screw trigger, that front screw is a trigger stop, or over travel screw, it has nothing to do with the sear.
SS
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Eastern PA | Registered: 30 December 2005Reply With Quote
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If you decide to replace the trigger on your #1, don't bother with the Moyers. Save your coin and buy the Kepplinger. You will be impressed. Been there, done that.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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The Moyers is a copy of the early Ruger trigger. It is adjustable and worth the $50 or so they get for it.
The Kepplinger is a set trigger and great for bench shooting but not needed on a hunting rifle. I use a Canjar set trigger on a No.1 in 22-250 and usually shoot it with setting it ( 2lbs). The Canjar is about $50 cheeper than the Kepplinger but very hard to find... may be no longer made.


I am one gun away from being happy
 
Posts: 906 | Location: NW OH | Registered: 19 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Ok...so I'm using my gun for hunting which model Moyers is suggested? They make a stainlees steel and a chrome molly. Thanks for the input.

Glenn
 
Posts: 39 | Location: Long Island, New York | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I would use either a Kepplinger or a Jard. The Jard is an excellent trigger and I've used several of each. Brownell's can furnish the Kepplinger and can probable special order the Jard for you. The Jard is $120.00 + shipping and comes preset in: 1 lb, 1.75 lbs, 2.5 lbs, 3,5 lbs, and 4.5 lbs. I have only used the 1.75 and the 2.5 and have had excellent results/
 
Posts: 339 | Registered: 16 December 2009Reply With Quote
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Gunmaker48

Ok. thanks for your input, and welcome to the forum. I just got back from a stock fitter who was excellent!

Glenn
 
Posts: 39 | Location: Long Island, New York | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Pow, There are those in the world that can do wonders w/ the factory trigger--they just seem to be few and far between.I followed the directions in the article referenced above and failed miserably.
I bought a moyers that is still in its package b/c the smith would not install it for safety reasons.
Unfortunately, Canjar is no longer in business.
Jard Inc has their own website and will sell to you.
Kepplinger gets good reviews, but are pricey.
 
Posts: 1135 | Location: corpus, TX | Registered: 02 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Alivencc,

Got ya. I will check out the Jard.

Glenn
 
Posts: 39 | Location: Long Island, New York | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by aliveincc:
Pow, There are those in the world that can do wonders w/ the factory trigger--they just seem to be few and far between.I followed the directions in the article referenced above and failed miserably.
I bought a moyers that is still in its package b/c the smith would not install it for safety reasons.
Unfortunately, Canjar is no longer in business.
Jard Inc has their own website and will sell to you.
Kepplinger gets good reviews, but are pricey.

I find it interesting that your smith wouldn’t install your Moyer trigger. Did he say what safety issues he had?

Moyer triggers are not a drop in trigger. A lot of times the sear/safety relationship has to be fitted to get a pull weight under 4 pounds. Besides that the Moyers trigger is a very rough casting, it needs a number of hours of file work before it looks good.

I'm just wondering if your smith didn't want to do it and blow you off.
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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I saw a catalogue from Germany that had HEYM Ruger rifles with double set triggers they may be an option...jack
 
Posts: 68 | Location: Camrose Alberta | Registered: 11 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I cannot understand what "safety issues" their might be with a Moyers trigger.

I have both the Moyers and Kepplinger on Rugers and like both, The Kepplingers on smaller calibers as my 22 Hornet, 7x57, and 30-06. They Moyers are on the 275H&H and 458 Win Mag.

One thing I did notice, the final finish on the later blued Moyers is not up to par. It does not affect function, but it is obvious that they are a cast part and the casting on one of mine was extremely rough, so rough as to be uncomfortable. My solution was to take the hand grinder to it and remove all the groves in the trigger face and give it a slightly convex shape to the face. I then filed the sides smooth, and rounded all edges, polished and blued Now they feel much better than even the stock Ruger trigger and adjustments are much better and easier.


JJK
 
Posts: 299 | Location: E. Texas, NE Louisiana | Registered: 10 September 2006Reply With Quote
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The "smith" was a well known gunmaker out of Houston. He told me that, in his experience, the Moyers was subject to firing when the action is closed or safety disengaged--I can't remember for sure which. I didn't argue w/ him and told him to just tune up the factory trigger.
I still kick myself in the ass for not buying multiple Canjars!
 
Posts: 1135 | Location: corpus, TX | Registered: 02 June 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by aliveincc:
The "smith" was a well known gunmaker out of Houston. He told me that, in his experience, the Moyers was subject to firing when the action is closed or safety disengaged--I can't remember for sure which. I didn't argue w/ him and told him to just tune up the factory trigger.
I still kick myself in the ass for not buying multiple Canjars!


Interesting. As far as kicking yourself for not buying Canjars triggers,,, me too.
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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That can happen but only if the trigger is in-properly adjusted, the Moyers trigger is no different than the Ruger factory three screw trigger and if set up properly it will work just fine, much better than the factory two screw trigger.

I'm surprised that a "well known gun maker" would work on the factory trigger but not the Moyers. If any trigger is in-properly adjusted it can be un-safe, even a Bolt Action can fire from the bolt being worked hard if the trigger is not set up correctly. I think there's more to this and he's not telling you the whole story. There are thousands of three screw triggers out there being used in # 1's with no problems.
Ruger # 1 Guy
 
Posts: 28 | Location: At the Range | Registered: 31 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Hello guys:

This thread has been going on for a while and I believe that the information provided by El Deguello is the Bible on this matter: "The early three-screw No. 1 triggers are much better, and the two types can be swapped. There is an aftermarket three-screw type available, which is essentially a copy of the three-screw original, BUT made of steel rather than aluminum. It is called a Moyers. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...h.aspx?c=3492&p=4816 That Kepplinger SST is also excellent, commenurate with its' price, of course. But not too expensive for a No. 1."

Of further concern is carrying a loaded # 1 while hunting. On a week long elk hunt I found the safety comming off and losing shells while traversing the mountains and blowdowns. On the Outdoor Channel I see that guys do even chamber a round until the game is spotted, but perhaps this is a new topic.

Glenn
 
Posts: 39 | Location: Long Island, New York | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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powhatan42,
You say that "the information provided by El Deguello is the Bible on this matter"

No disrespect and I don't mean for El Deguello re-write the "Bible" but, when referring to the two screw trigger he said :

"The rear one "theoretically" reduces trigger pull weight by easing off on trigger adjustment spring tension. The front one is the "sear engagement adjustment screw."

There is no "sear engagement adjustment screw." on a two screw trigger.

The Ruger three screw trigger and the Moyers that is a copy of the Ruger three screw trigger do have a "sear engagement adjustment screw." that's what the third screw is for in the three screw trigger. There is no way to screw adjust the sear engagement on a two screw trigger.
Ruger # 1 Guy
 
Posts: 28 | Location: At the Range | Registered: 31 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Ruger#1 Guy,

As we all know that even the Bible is subject to many interpetations. I quoted a portion of the text as indicated by the quotation marks.

My feeling on the matter is that the Factory trigger is fine for most hunting applications. Long distance shooting and varmint hunting are a special applications where some adjustment could be benifical.

Glenn
 
Posts: 39 | Location: Long Island, New York | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Not a problem, I agree that for some the two screw is fine, just did not want to see guys trying to adjust the front screw thinking that they were adjusting the sear engagement, when in fact the screw has nothing to do with the sear.
Ruger # 1 Guy
 
Posts: 28 | Location: At the Range | Registered: 31 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Hello,

Please see this link for a good trigger............

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpB...cea7ca612384c53b8f4b
 
Posts: 1 | Location: Douglasville, GA | Registered: 19 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Thank you Mark. Did you get your Clements trigger? Is it what you hoped? Please let us #1 shooters know.
 
Posts: 1135 | Location: corpus, TX | Registered: 02 June 2009Reply With Quote
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