I just bought a Ruger #1 in 7mm Rem. Mag., haven't even put a scope on it yet. I was hoping some of you might have some tips for adjusting the trigger, (2 screw) as the manual that comes with it doesn't tell which is creep and which is pull. Also any tips for floating the barrell.
Any help would be appreciated.

Stephen:

Check out this link, 5th paragraph, tells you how to do it: http://members.tripod.com/Rbertalotto/ruger/ruger.html .

Glass bedding these help (but please shoot it first !), but some want/need pressure from the hanger to the barrel. You can drill & tap the forend hanger for a set screw or check out the Hick's Accurizeer for the #1, to which there is a link on Roy's #1 page listed above.

Make sure you can slip a piece of paper between the action and the rear of the forend where it butts up against the action (after you bed the ofrend, if you do). You do not want "hard contact" there.

See also: http://www.eabco.com/Ruger01.html

Cheers, enjoy that rifle, and tight groups !

The trigger is pretty much un adjustable. I feel those screws are only for show. Brownells sell a trigger with threee screws. I believe it's made by Moyers. It is the old No.1 design. I've read and heard too many things that say it's only a marginal improvement.

Brownells also sell a set trigger tha I believe runs around $180 or so. This is on the list for my own #1.



As far as the free float issue Hicks also sells a piece that slips on the hanger bar that allows you to adjust the barrel to hanger bar tension. The advatage of this is if you have to send it to the factory it can be removed. I had one soldered onto the hanger bar. I have sent it to Ruger and they said because of this modification they would not work on it. Keep this in mind.

Stephen,
In Brownells catalog, the Kepplinger single set trigger is $182. I have used #1's since 1967. I used the orginal triggers, then had them adjusted, etc. Finally put one Kepplinger on a Rem 6mm, used it, then put another on a Rem 223. Once you use one, you'll never be satisfied with any thing else. This is not saying any thing negative about the Moyer trigger.
Yes they are expensive, & I had to save my pennies to get my 1st one, but if you really like the #1's, & use it for your pimary rifle like me, believe me the Kepplinger's are worth it.

Inquire around, & see if you can find some one who has one, that would let you shoot their rifle. Then I'll bet you'll save, until you can buy one. The hanger idea really work. I had my made permenant, but from what I have read the kits work well also. Good luck

There is no comparison between the Kepplinger set trigger and others available for the No. 1 IMO. It allows a degree of control and alternative the others do not. You can go first class and use a Kepplinger or be satisfied with something less.

When Elmer Keith was writing his Guns and Ammo column, he suggested putting a piece of live rubber, like a piece of inner tube, under the forend screw on a #1. This allows some pressure, but it's cushioned.

It's worked for me on the two #1's I've owned.

Regarding the factory two screw trigger, as mentioned in another post, it's essentially not adjustable.

I put a Canjar single-set on one of my Noi. 1's. It works great UNSET as well as set - about 2.5 lb. unset. I have a No.1H .375 H&H with the 2-screw trigger. Have never been able to get it to work to my satifaction, even when I had a good gunsmith work on it. It is down to 3 pounds, but is still full of creep and feels "mushy" at letoff.

I have put a small rubber "o" ring on the screws of my 1"s and 3"s.

Helps in most cases.

Where does the "O" ring go? On the inside between the wood and forend hanger, or outside under the screw head? I've heard of this, but never knew where to put the rubber.....

Put it on the inside. Sometimes you have to work a touch to get the threads engaged, then snug it, don't overtighten.

Where does the "O" ring go? On the inside between the wood and forend hanger, or outside under the screw head? I've heard of this, but never knew where to put the rubber.....

Thanks Jimmy! I'll give it a try!!

On my #1 there is about an 1/8 gap between the hanger and the forend, one o-ring or washer wouldn't do it. But I didn't like the way the forend moved around with this method and on mine I just back off the screw then tighten until all the slack is taken up and tighten an additional 1/4 turn. Seems to have the right uppressure on the barrel and the forend doesn't want to move. The rifle shoots under a 1" with a couple loads. Probably just me but I just couldn't get used to the forend feeling mushy not loose but not snug. Not saying it doesn't work but I have seen/heard where a lot of guys over tighten the forend screw.
Dave

I've even put a rubber washer about the size of nickel in between the hanger and the barrel. Seemed to help a little, think it dampend the barrel vibrations......