I know this topic is old.
Anyone ever put washers, shims, or other types spacers between the forearm screw and hanger on a #1, to force the forend down some and float the barrel.
I have a #1 V that I have not shot yet, but was looking that the forarm and noticed that if I loosen the forearm screw several turns, I can slide a sheet of paper between the barrel and forearm from tip to action.
I am aware of the various set screw pressure point on the barrel methods.
Just curious if this has been tried and the success.

Thanks

Look up "Hicks Accurizer", Helped my #1a 270 win. a lot. That said, my ruger no. 1As are the most fussy rifles I have. I have to be sure to hold them the same way when shooting off sticks, knees, pack,etc, etc. The more I learn to do this, the better they shoot for me.

Just recently completed a build on Ruger NO. 1 in 22-250 and did place shim at the area the forend stock screw enters. Thickness of some .005" I cut it to shape to fit in that area and fits snug there. With moderate tension on the stock screw, not super tight, but tight enough, the forend forward of the screw does not touch the barrel and to make sure it did not touch, lightly sanded out the barrel channel from the hanger forward to the end. Have not done it yet, but have been told to relieve the rear portion of the forearm in the contact area at the action itself is also a plus?? Should say my NO.1 is the V model in 22-250 but barrel replaced and is same caliber, but with -7 twist for bullet weight ranges of 69-90gr. 35rnds through it so far for break in, but looks promising with groups of 5 @ 100yds under 1"

When I started shooting Ruger #3's way back when... They were $135, new in the box, from Ron Shirk's Shooting Supplies. I glass bedded the contact points, then relieved the barrel channel and the rear of the forearm so I could pass a sheet of paper between the barrel and forarm and a piece of onion skin paper between the forearm and receiver. The smaller crack didn't look as bad and didn't seem to hurt the groups size. After all that work, I tried a brass washer, surface ground to .005" as a spacer and didn't spend near as long getting the wood relieved. My .22 Hornet went from 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" tall groups to uniform 1/2" groups. I wish I still had it! My #3 in .45-70 has never been accurized. The darn rifle has so much recoil it won't help shrink groups. LOL A Hornady 300g jacketed bullet at 2100 fps is like shooting hand grenades.

Hal

A washer is the fastest easiest fix but I drill a hole through the hanger and thread it, then run a 6/32 headless screw through and adjust pressure on the barrel at the same time free floating the forend. The Hicks dose the same thing but requires inleting and expence.

www.rvbprecision.com

article in this web site

How much time and effort and money do you spend trying to accurize one of these rifles?

Greg

What can one do to the number #1 to get away from the quarter rib mount?

Anyone have information on a 2 piece base for a #1S

Greg

I have a Ruger 1B in .204 Ruger.

I did two things.

1. Put a trigger job on it.

2. Installed the Hicks device. (Which I had with trigger job installed by a competent rifle smith.) Hicks screw was set according to manufacturer's instructions and it made a significant difference.

Rifle smith thought installation of Hicks device was not trivial and required some physical effort and fitting to get right.

The thing now is among my most accurate and powerful varmint rifles