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Speed Lock Hammer and Spring for Ruger #1.
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Tried to order these item from Brownell, was told since Moulds the manufacturer is not registered with the States Department they Brownell can not ship these parts to Canada. This is a new rule and law by Obama administration..

I have ordered and used these parts before but not any more.
Things are getting tougher every day. Like any Gun Item over $100US requires an import licence. Bullets require an Us Export licence which costs $400 US besides an import licence. This more or less cuts out all small bullet makers to ship bullets to other countries.

I could get someone buy the parts for me and mail them to me but then I would loose my gunsmith whole sale discount besides paying the 20% currency exchange.

I guess I will have to do without or get ripped off.

My 6.5x284 1B Ruger is complete now except for an upgrade hammer, and a Keplinger trigger which I am getting from Austria.

Does anybody know where I can get a Moulds Speed lock Hammer and spring at a reasonable price without going through the hoops?


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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fred,
the hammer in the gun is hard, but if you get a carbide drill bit you can drill several holes that will lighten up the hammer and decrease your lock time.
max
 
Posts: 982 | Location: Shenandoah Valley VA | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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maxHm2.
I had a spare hammer from a previous Moulds hammer exchange. I milled it simular to the Moulds Hammer with a 1/4" carbide end mill.



Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Nice job on the hammer ZERMEL. Wink
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Here is what I got done on my 6.5x284 sofar. I reshaped and recheckerd the the #1B forearm to look like an Alexander Henry fore arm. Milled the 26" barrel octagon. Rebedded the forearm to a nearly invisible repair. Tightly bedded the forearm and the butt stock to the action, for no wiggle. A complete stock refinish and installation of a Decellerator Pachmyer recoil pad. Refitted the 1/4 rib to suit the octagon. The scope is a Kahles 3-9.

Installing the modified hammer and the Kepplinger Set Trigger is now in progress.

BTW Hannes Kepplinger in Austra is in the process of retireing and production of his varieous actions and triggers will perhaps end this year.

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0008800x600_1.jpg[/img]

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0009800x600_1.jpg[/img]

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0013800x600_1.jpg[/img]


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Here is what I got done on my 6.5x284 sofar. I reshaped and recheckerd the the #1B forearm to look like an Alexander Henry fore arm. Milled the 26" barrel octagon. Rebedded the forearm to a nearly invisible repair. Tightly bedded the forearm and the butt stock to the action, for no wiggle. A complete stock refinish and installation of a Decellerator Pachmyer recoil pad. Refitted the 1/4 rib to suit the octagon. The scope is a Kahles 3-9.

Installing the modified hammer and the Kepplinger Set Trigger is now in progress.

BTW Hannes Kepplinger is in the process of retireing and production of his varieous actions and triggers will perhaps end this year.

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0008800x600_1.jpg[/img]

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0009800x600_1.jpg[/img]

[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0013800x600_1.jpg[/img]


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
[img width=500 height=375]http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ZERMEL/imgp0008800x600_1.jpg[/img]


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Somehow the pictures above did not show up.
I try this one more time.








Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Good looking rifle. Nice fit and finish on the forearm. thumb
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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MickinColo
Thanks for your comments. Today I finally got that Kepplinger trigger and the scelletonized hammer installed. Had some proplems with the hammer they are not quite the same and the loading ramp is a shade too high but it works ok. I have to do the milling on the origional hammer which was fitted at the factory.

Ruger says hammers must be fitted at the factory, now I know why! The origional hammer spring is fine with lighter hammer.

The Kepplinger trigger was short by 0.024" to reach the underside of the sear arm. This is a bit of a delema. So I made a shim 0.113x0.600x0.025deep. I just wanted to try it and glued it to the underside of the sear arm with 51High tech epoxy.If it works I will solder the shim at a later date.

The adjusting of the set trigger takes a bit of fiddling since the set screw function is not very well expained. As right now the primary trigger pull is 320z and the set pull about 4-5oz. That is pretty good.

One thing the sear notch in the hammer will have to be honed to at least 35oz since the Kepplinger trigger does not adjust the initial pull weight.

Once you adjust the pull weight to 32oz by stoning the hammer notch the Kepplinger trigger
is not really needed. That what I did with all my other #1 Rugers.


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ZERMEL:
MickinColo
Thanks for your comments. Today I finally got that Kepplinger trigger and the scelletonized hammer installed. Had some proplems with the hammer they are not quite the same and the loading ramp is a shade too high but it works ok. I have to do the milling on the origional hammer which was fitted at the factory.

Ruger says hammers must be fitted at the factory, now I know why! The origional hammer spring is fine with lighter hammer.

The Kepplinger trigger was short by 0.024" to reach the underside of the sear arm. This is a bit of a delema. So I made a shim 0.113x0.600x0.025deep. I just wanted to try it and glued it to the underside of the sear arm with 51High tech epoxy.If it works I will solder the shim at a later date.

The adjusting of the set trigger takes a bit of fiddling since the set screw function is not very well expained. As right now the primary trigger pull is 320z and the set pull about 4-5oz. That is pretty good.

One thing the sear notch in the hammer will have to be honed to at least 35oz since the Kepplinger trigger does not adjust the initial pull weight.

Once you adjust the pull weight to 32oz by stoning the hammer notch the Kepplinger trigger
is not really needed. That what I did with all my other #1 Rugers.


ZERMEL

I have one rifle with a Kepplinger trigger and I know what you mean about “a bit of fiddling”. It’s on a No. 1 V in 220 Swift with a competition speed hammer and spring. I installed the trigger as per manufacture’s instructions. I’m not thrilled about the over travel in the unset position but it’s a very smooth and light pull after honing the sear face and hammer notch.

 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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MickinColo.
Thanks for the reply. I see your trigger is up against the sear bar. After I mill the existing hammer maybe that arm will come down with the different hammer?

The fitting of the sear and the hammer notch is a pain. So I may just leave the setup as is.

It is hard to go by guess when doing a hammer/sear job. Next time I build a jig with exact relations of the sear, hammer and the falling block. That way you get the proper angulation of the parts. Including a Ruger trigger and sear spring, like in the rifle but visible. I think that will be a winter job.

Thank you for the intrest in my project.


Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ZERMEL:
MickinColo.
Thanks for the reply. I see your trigger is up against the sear bar. After I mill the existing hammer maybe that arm will come down with the different hammer?

The fitting of the sear and the hammer notch is a pain. So I may just leave the setup as is.

It is hard to go by guess when doing a hammer/sear job. Next time I build a jig with exact relations of the sear, hammer and the falling block. That way you get the proper angulation of the parts. Including a Ruger trigger and sear spring, like in the rifle but visible. I think that will be a winter job.

Thank you for the intrest in my project.


You'll get there, if it was eazy it wouldn't be any fun. Wink
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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