When I first bought my handi rifle a year ago it would shoot .75-1" groups. This isn't great, but I didn't bother developing a more accurate load because I got it for carrying in the woods (10-40yard shots on coons). A couple of days ago I took it shooting at the bench and the groups were all the sudden very far to the right and groups about 6-7". I tried my reduced loads and Nosler BT loads and even some factory fmj loads. I have never done any accuracy tricks with this rifle but feel I may have to so it will stay consistant. Any suggestions from those who own/shoot a handi rifle.

I haven't shot my .223 Ultra Varmint yet, it's getting a trigger job and a couple new barrels at H&R, but I have read a LOT about it. Because of the 1-12 rate of twist, it won't shoot bullets heavier that 55gr and even the 55gr are marginal. It won't shoot well with any bullet until the barrel is well seasoned, 150-300 rnds. That can happen 2 ways, burning a lot of powder or polishing the bore and chamber with flinz metal poilish or JB bore polish, I prefer the polish method. The most recommended load is winchester white box value packs, 45gr JHP. That one load has been universally recommended by everyone that has tried it, even dyed in the wool handloaders, it's just really accurate in the NEF/H&R .223s, 100 yd, 5 shot groups under 1/2" are attainable with the right person behind the trigger. Polishing the chamber is the fix for ejection problems which are common. Semi floating the forearm will help some barrels, some it won't. It can be floated by adding a 9/16"IDx3/8"IDx3/32"thick neoprene "O" ring to the barrel stud, then gently applying pressure to the screw, not tight, just til it starts to compress. When using a rest under the forestock, place it just ahead of the hinge, right at the forearm spacer, that puts the least pressure on the barrel and allows for the most consistency. I've probably forgot a few things, but ask and I'll tell all. Here's some good reading if you haven't seen it.



http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/feb97money.html



Here's a link about accurizing the handi-rifle.



http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/nef.html

Does it have a scope? If it does that could be where the problem lies.

My .223 Handi would not group well at first. Now I have it shooting .75" @ 100 yds and I think it will get better as I improve my technique. The biggest improvement came from improving the scope-mount. As mine is the Handi with tapered barrel the front third of the mount was unsupported and not tight. I used JB weld to support it full length. I floated the forearm and am very careful about consistent placing of the rifle on the sandbags while shooting. I put the sandbags just ahead of the hinge point but behind the lug. That is the smoothest place so I don't snag the bag. It likes 45 gr Hornady or 52 gr Speer bullets. Good Luck.

this sounds like a scope problem, these guns are prone to have the scopes and bases come loose, retighten everything, use some blue loctite also make sure the hammer is not contacting the scope in anyway.

My first guess would be scope or mounts. Another possible problem with 2 piece stocks is a loose butt stock. Remove the recoil pad or butt plate and tighten the through bolt that joins the butt stock to the frame

Do you have any suggestions for a scope mount and rings?

Robin

This is purely my opinion as there are so many different rings available, but I really like burris signature zee rings. They have polymer inserts that protect the scope and eccentric offset kits are available that allow you to adjust the scope's position relative to the barrel so shimming isn't necessary. They also eliminate the need to lap the rings to eliminate any stress on the scope due to misaligned ring/bases. They leave the scope completely without ring marks if you ever decide to swap scopes, thereby increasing the value of the old scope if you want to sell it. The rail that comes with the NEF/H&R is good if you remove it and properly clean and use loctite to remount it. I prefer to only place the rings on the portion of the rail in contact with the barrel and not on the extended part. Late models have a set screw on the extended part but I still mount mine on the rear 2/3rds of the rail. Make sure the rings are tall enough to allow for clearance at the hammer, if the hammer is real close, but doesn't touch when you pull the hammer back, I've seen reports of it hitting and scratching the scope because of overtravel in the hammer pivot when the hammer falls. hth

the rings that seem to always work with these are the leupold rifleman rings that you get from wal-mart. Get the hight rings and these will clear just about any scope. they are decently made and only cost about 16$

My guess would be that you changed ammo. NEF uses too slow a twist for bullets heavier than about 50 grains. Clean the barrel real thoughly with a copper solvent in case fouling is the problem and then try some of the Winchester 45 grain ammo.

That's secondhand, btw. I don't have a .223 barrel exactly because of that slow twist.

Surely it's the scope unless something really wierd happened to the ammo. I've had rounds move point of impact a little due to temperature differentials,(about 50 degrees) but never that much. Good Luck.