Is the safety on the Ruger single shot just a trigger block or does it also block the sear.

quote:

Originally posted by wombat:
Is the safety on the Ruger single shot just a trigger block or does it also block the sear.

Locks sear & trigger......

It blocks the sear (not the trigger, at least not directly) and the hammer, and sometimes the ejecting cartridge case as well.

The Ruger #1 safety can easily be modified to allow the ejected case to clear. It takes about 15min. w/ a fine grinding wheel & some cold blue. Both mine are so mod. & I never have a problme w/ cases clearing.

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
The Ruger #1 safety can easily be modified to allow the ejected case to clear. It takes about 15min. w/ a fine grinding wheel & some cold blue. Both mine are so mod. & I never have a problme w/ cases clearing.

Can you provide some additional details on your modification? Thanks in advance!

gcf, it's as simple as pulling the safety. Grind the front portion of the tang safety off about 0.100" & polish & reblue. I did my first one & had my gunsmith do the 2nd when he was doing a trigger job. You can shape it anyway you like too, rounded, square, small triangle, etc. There are alos gunsmiths that recess the tang safety, but now you are talking about machining, blueing, money, but it looks slick.

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
gcf, it's as simple as pulling the safety. Grind the front portion of the tang safety off about 0.100" & polish & reblue. I did my first one & had my gunsmith do the 2nd when he was doing a trigger job. You can shape it anyway you like too, rounded, square, small triangle, etc. There are alos gunsmiths that recess the tang safety, but now you are talking about machining, blueing, money, but it looks slick.

I've seen 'em recessed, & they do look slick. Figured it would be semi-big $$. That's what I'd really like, but the potential for an in-experienced smith to really screw up a good rifle, is there...

Now I've got to admit ignorance. How DO you pull the safety?, And for that matter, detail strip the whole action for maintenance? Needs doin'.

Couldn't be that tough...., right?? ;=]

Thanks in advance.

Take off the recoil pad.
Use a socket on an extension and take off the stock.
The safety button/slide is held in the action by two roll pins. Tap them out with a punch and the safety will lift out of the slot.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE SMALL SLOTTED PIN THAT CAPTURES THE SAFETY SPRING. I like to keep a magnet on the workbench to hold small parts like this so that won't fall into a crack somewhere.

Yeah, but isn't the safety tang just long enough at both ends to barely cover the openning of the slot that it travels in? Grinding either end shorter would reviel that slot when the tang is slid all the way to the opposite end, wouldn't it?

Muletrain is exactly right on disassembly.
Ian, unless you grind of the entire front portion off, the safety slot is not an issue. You only need to remove 0.10" to have all rounds clear the ejection port. I'll see if I can get a photo up.

fredj338,
Thanks for offering to put up a picture, I look forward to seeing it.
Cheers.

Finally got some pics of the safety modification. As you can se, I removed a bit of metal & then thinned it, emoties fly out w/o a problem.

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
Finally got some pics of the safety modification. As you can se, I removed a bit of metal & then thinned it, emoties fly out w/o a problem.

fredj338 -
Look like a great (should have done it that way at the factory) modification! Thanks for visual.

fredj338
Many Thanks

One other solution is to adjust the extractor spring so that it just barely drags the case out of the chamber leaving it lay in the trough, as it were. I don't like picking my brass off the ground.

quote:

Originally posted by muffin:
One other solution is to adjust the extractor spring so that it just barely drags the case out of the chamber leaving it lay in the trough, as it were. I don't like picking my brass off the ground.

That setup would work fine for target shooting however for hunting it would not be such a good idea. In a hunting situation one should reload immeadiatly after firing a shot at an animal just incase the shot was not ideal and the animal tries to get up. I have found that reloading a #1 is fairly quick if the empty case has cleared the action trough. Slip the fresh round out of a belt slide and thumb it into the breach without lowering the rifle from the shoulder. With practice this can be done nearly as fast as cycling a bolt action.

I agree Muletrain, I don't really care where my brass ends up after a shot on game. I use a 2 round slide around the middle of the rifle and/or hold an extra round in my off hand fingers. Reloading a #1 can be very quick, although as of yet I have never needed a quick 2nd shot w/ either of my #1s.

Yep.... when they don't hit the safety, they ding up the leading edge of the stock comb.

I wish they all hit the safety.

cas, after you shorten the safety, you can adjust the spring tension so they just clear the receiver. Besides, my stocks have hunting dings, the occasional ding from the case???

But what are you gaining that way? The way it is now, it hits the safety and bounces free and out of the way, which is perfect for hunting. At the range I put my hand over the safety and catch/block the bounce.

NO cas, it hits the safety & rechambers. Why do you think the guys are complaining about the original design? If it bounced out of the way thre would be no prbolem w/ the safety. Shoot a #1 long enough under field conditions & you'll see this happen, which is why my rifles are modified to throw the brass as faaaaar from me as possible.

My experience was more like fredj338's. My No. 1 in 7 RM would always leave the case in the loading trough. I studied the action several times, and I never figured out how this could happen. fredj338's comment his would rechamber must explain it: the case must have bounced forward off the safety and then rearward off the breech face before ending up in the trough. Regardless, I took to rotating the action well right as I worked the lever.

Ah asdf, you are wise & observant. Now just modify your safety & hunt happy.

fredj338: Were I observant, I'd have figured it out myself. I'm getting the itch to own a No. 1 again (I sold that 7 RM), and I'll try your fix if I do. Thanks for the info.

asdf, I'ld love to find one in .300h&h or maybe get a 06 & have it rechambered. They are a nice rifle & both mine are more accurate than I can hold them out to 400yds.

I was thinking more along the lines of a .358 Win or a 9.3x74R.

A 9.3x74 would be very cool. To me the single shot shines in that you can use any length case you want. I have on in .338x74K, which is a 9.3x74R necked down & blown out. COL is 4.00" & it is basically a .338winmag driving a 225gr bullet @ 2800fps or a 250gr @ 2650fps. That's it in the middle falnked by a 7rm & a .280rem.

The .338-74R Keith is a fine choice, but I'd load mine with those 300 gn Woodleighs, making a modern rendition of the .333 Jeffery.

I may have to try that. I have a box of Speer 275gr hoarded away just to try in this, but it would be a 200yd rifle then, nothing wrong w/ that though.