Hi all. I have a Ruger No. 1b in 22-250 that I would like to take off and install a No. 3 take off barrel that I have on it. It's in my favorite caliber 30-40. My question is will my 1B forearm work with the new barrel? Any one tried this? Thank you for any help you can give...RW

I don't see why it would not work. Take it off the #1B and lay the #3 barrel in the proper location in the forearm. You might have to do a little inletting work. I see more hassle in getting the extractor altered to work than any problem with the forearm. It might look a bit funny with that big forearm and the shorter 30-34 barrel, but hey! If that's what you want, go for it.
Paul B.

For some reason, Ruger didn't time the receiver threads on their #1 or #3 actions. What does that mean, when you inter change barrels between actions the ejector slot and firing pin ramp most likely won't be in line with the receiver. You can adjust the barrels position by removing some steel from the shoulder and line up the slots, when adjust the headspace.

If you go from a .22-250 to a .30-40, you will need to exchange the ejector, it's a $5 part. No big deal....

Thankyou for the replies. PaulB I agree it may look different with the short barrel and 1B forarm but it will be unique. For whatever reason I'm hung up on getting a 30-40 in a singleshot. Just trying to decide if I'll leave it the standard 30-40 or rechamber to the 30-40 AI. It certainly will be more handy with the shorter, lighter barrel. Just the ticket for the thick forest I hunt in...RW

The 30-40 Krag works just fine the way it is, in the Ruger you can load it to the max(30-40 max) and have a great deer getter! I've found the 30-40's are chambered to shoot the 220 gr bullets, so the short 150 gr pills don't shoot as accurately ( my gun ), my fix was to shoot 170 gr 30-30 bullets @ 2500fps with great accuracy (1 moa). This load hits them whitetails like Thor's Hammer!
https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9421043/m/210108973

My #3 is wearing a #1 stock from B&C, I did have to open the forearm a bit to accomadate the heavier barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by reloaderman:
The 30-40 Krag works just fine the way it is, in the Ruger you can load it to the max(30-40 max) and have a great deer getter! I've found the 30-40's are chambered to shoot the 220 gr bullets, so the short 150 gr pills don't shoot as accurately ( my gun ), my fix was to shoot 170 gr 30-30 bullets @ 2500fps with great accuracy (1 moa). This load hits them whitetails like Thor's Hammer!
https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9421043/m/210108973

My #3 is wearing a #1 stock from B&C, I did have to open the forearm a bit to accomadate the heavier barrel.

A 100-meter group fired from a Ruger No. 3 in .30/40 with 170-grain Hornady .30/30 bullets and 50 grains of IMR 4350-MV 2500 FPS!! Lyman All-American 4X scope.

That's a great load........but you know that already! My #3 shoots about the same with that load!

Mark, can you explain a little further. I just bought a 26" 30-06 barrel that I may re-chamber to 300 H&H and swap out for the existing looong throated 7x57 barrel. If I understand, the new barrel may not line up correctly when screwed in, prior to re-chambering? thanks, Bob

Most military firearms have timed receiver threads. In other words the threading start in the same place on each receiver so you can replace barrels. On each military barrel when torqued it into place the sights will come up on top of the firearm. For some reason Ruger didn't do this thread timing. You can take one barrel from any #1 unscrew it and install it into another action and the quarter rib will be on the bottom of the rifle under the forearm. With today's modern machinery and jigs and fixtures, you have to go out of your way not to have timed threads.

If you want to change barrels, screw the new barrel into place and see how far off it is from being in the correct position. To make an adjustment, place the barrel in a lathe and remove some steel from the barrel's shoulder and the end of the barrel. When you finished you might need to cut the extractor slot a littler deaper along with the firing pin ramp. Now go in with a .300 H&H reamer and cut the new chamber and adjust the headspace.

The new chamber is a .300H&H so you will need a mag extractor/ejector. This is a $5 part and not a problem to do.

Mark, thanks a lot for the explanation. Bob