I bought a Clerke Hi Wall from an individual (not a dealer) at a gun show recently, who assured me the rifle was mechanically 100%. It wasnt. The firing pin was only registering light hits on the primer with no ignition. I took the block out of the receiver and measured the exposed portion of the firing pin when fully extended. There was only .042" extending through the recoil shield. I had a bit of material turned off the shoulder that contacts the rear of the recoil shield so that the firing pin now extends .060" out the front. Reassembelled rifle, still light primer strikes with no ignition. My next thought was that the mainspring (hammer spring) might be weak. Couldn't find any parts for a Clerke, but saw a breakdown for a Uberti Hi Wall and the spring looked similar, so on a hunch I ordered one. It fit fine. Reassembelled rifle again, same story, no ignition, light primer strikes. I am now at a loss. I don't think it is a head spacing problem. Any suggestions? I am going nuts. I am committed to making this rifle a shooter, because it is now just an expensive club, and I refuse to sell it to someone and screw them like I got screwed. Thanks!

buy a new firing pin?

Rich
DRSS

Would probably have to have one made, the firing pins of the repro hi wall doesn't work, too short, shaped and tapered different. I may go that route next.

If you extended the protrusion and got the same primer response, you may have a different problem than just a hammer spring. Might want to have your smith look at it. I haven't looked at a Clerke closely. Is it a rebounding hammer? does the rebound geometry interfere with the strike on the firing pin? May have to make a newe pin.

Mattb Is it possible that your hammer is not making a full strike into the falling block ? cock and hold hammer while pulling trigger and gently lower hammer into block and see if hammer will stop before full contact with firing pin .

I just finished building myself a Scheutzen rifle on a Clerke action from an old set of castings. Some of them had a (useless) safety operated by a small lever which I removed and welded up the leftover hole. This safety (if you're unluckey enough to have it) may be causing your problem if it's installed incorrectly. I still have a few Clerke parts if you run into problems.

Thanks to everybody for the suggestions. No, it is not a rebounding hammer nor does it have a manual safety. Yes, it does make full contact with the block. I am dropping it off to my smith tomorrow morning and he is going to mill me a new firing pin. He is going to leave extra material on the front and the back and remove it as needed for proper ignition. Again, thanks to all who respond and I welcome anymore thoughts and I will let you all know what I learn. It is just such a cool rifle and I can't let it go without being useable. Thanks again.