THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM SINGLE SHOT RIFLES FORUM


Moderators: Paul H
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
How to lighten up a #1...
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
Picture of .404
posted
What would be your thoughts on trimming up a #1-B. I could see drilling a few holes in the stocks,maybe shorten the barrel a little? What else without a rebarrel or plastic stock? It would be nice to lose 6 to 8oz's...


I pray for mud on my boots the day I die...
Go see the nights of Africa.....
 
Posts: 208 | Location: back home in the Tarheel state | Registered: 16 July 2007Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Well, the EASIEST way to lighten up a no 1B is to sell it and get a Number 1A..LOL

Having said, that the real culprit in a number 1 is the damn overbuilt, heavy action.

The receiver itself is too hard for any inexpensive rework and the forearm hanger needs all the stiffness it can get. So that part is off limits.

If the caliber does not really require 26" of barrel, lopping off 2" would increase the stiffness a bit, make it handier and also drop about 2 ounces I believe.

Then there are the stocks. Less weight to be saved here than you would think but it all helps. By taking a forend a bit and hogging out some wood under the barrel from the front of the for-end hanger to about 1" behind the front swivel stud, you will take out another ounce or so.

Then, the same treatment enlarging the butt stock through bolt hole about 3-4 inches deep about about 3" high should result in at least tow more.

Conservatively, the barrel and stock shaves off about 5 ounces.

Two other areas where weight can be taken off the metal the easiest are the Quarter ribs an the action lever. Both parts are way heavier than they need to be.

The quarter rib can be skeltonized from underneath(hidden slots and holes) or simply cut into a two piece and sculpted up into a nicely shape set of bases. That would save at least another ounce or two. Also while you are at it a really good accuracy tuning trick is to relieve the BACK of the scope stud holes to eliminate binding as the barrel heats and yet still take recoil.

Then do the same thing with the finger lever. Reshape the front and bottom with file and reblue.

I think all told, you would get very close to that half pound and wind up with a more accurate and better looking No 1.
 
Posts: 528 | Registered: 25 December 2006Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Akshooter
posted Hide Post
I have made it easy on myself by simply resigning my attitude about the #1 as a good lightweight single shot when chambered for medium or large caliber.

#1's can be made light weight but it requiers a lot of work and you will never bring it down to the weight of a K95.

A #1A is a reasonably light rifle and for the money I would be happy with it the way it is. If I wanted to put a lot of money into it to make it a lightweight I would spend the extra money and buy the K95 Blazer or K1 Merkel.


DRSS
NRA life
AK Master Guide 124
 
Posts: 1562 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 05 February 2006Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
One often-overlooked approach is to cut off the forearm hanger entirely and use a barrel bedding block instead. Equal accuracy, see Frank de Haas' articles on his experiments with this approach. No ejector kicker but so what?

Sculpting and even skeletonizing the receiver with a grinder or carbide milling cutter is another rarely-seen approach that can save weight and improve the lines as well.
Regards, Joe


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
How short can you cut the forearm hanger and keep the ejector functional?
 
Posts: 818 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 24 May 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Jim Brainard
posted Hide Post
What weight? After carrying my Sharps around for a while, the No 1 is really light! All in the mind of the user. Jim


Jim
 
Posts: 90 | Location: Petersburg, Alaska | Registered: 08 November 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Reprofile bbl. and get 1A forend. My 1A 7x57 with scope is just a little over 7#. My 1B 25-06 with scope is probably around 9.5#.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 1103 | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of .404
posted Hide Post
I have several 1A's and like the "short rifle" feel.The one B I have is a nice 7 mm mag with good wood,that I would use more,it it didn't weigh over 9lbs scoped.
While I prefer a .300HH for any "long range" ,I hate see the 7 mag sitting and not earning it's keep....
I hoped to find a 1A in .270 to swap,but so far it ain't happening......


I pray for mud on my boots the day I die...
Go see the nights of Africa.....
 
Posts: 208 | Location: back home in the Tarheel state | Registered: 16 July 2007Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Do it piece meal, I would takle the wood first, as suggested - lighten up the butt stock. My personal option is that on a 1B the forend is way too long an makes the gun look "clunky" - I would shorten and reconfigure the forend (did it on my 1B already). I don't have much use for the ejector so I will likely remove in the near future. I prefer a longer barrel on a magnum, but if your still not happy you can shorten and reprofile to suit yourself. Install a light wght scope of your choosing. FWIW --- John303.
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of .404
posted Hide Post
That's pretty much the way I'm going.I guess in my mind I have to make right with the 7Mag caliber.....


I pray for mud on my boots the day I die...
Go see the nights of Africa.....
 
Posts: 208 | Location: back home in the Tarheel state | Registered: 16 July 2007Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia