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"critical" No. 1 improvements?
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Anything that makes a dramatic improvement in the gun? (similar to say, a trigger in a marlin 1895)


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Posts: 863 | Location: Texas | Registered: 25 January 2006Reply With Quote
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The recent examples of this rifle have triggers that "leave something to be desired". So at present, the MNo. 1's that have just two "trigger adjustment screws" instead of three can be improved with aftermarket triggers.

If you can find one, the Canjar single-set is excellent, as it gives a great single-stage pull unset, and you can use it set as well, if desired.


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Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Mine has new 28" Lilja bbl, floated fore end and a Kepplinger set trigger.

If I do my part it shoots sub MOA.

Haven't tried any other after market triggers. Do have a Shilen DGA with a very fine trigger. The Kepplinger is a bit on the pricey side compared to some. I find it to be a wonderful trigger on the #1.

Muffin
 
Posts: 625 | Registered: 20 November 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Mine has new 28" Lilja bbl
What's it chambered for? Contour? Twist?
 
Posts: 1733 | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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7X57 AI, 1-9.
 
Posts: 625 | Registered: 20 November 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Aglifter:
Anything that makes a dramatic improvement in the gun? (similar to say, a trigger in a marlin 1895)


Aglifter give this a view and see if helps:

Tune up a No.1


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Posts: 3242 | Location: Cruising through the Milky Way at 98,000fps | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With Quote
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You need to glass and float the forend, install a set screw between the hanger and barrel and do the mod to the scope mount. Email me if you like.

Jim


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5533 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Just a good load, IMO... ;=]





Regards - GCF
"Sometimes you make eight - Sometimes you hit dirt"
 
Posts: 291 | Location: Corpus Christi, TX | Registered: 01 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I've got a #1A in 243
Right off the box, i exchaged the trigger for a moyers unit that mimmics the old style #1 triggers, breaking cleanly @ 3 lbs.
scraped the quarter rib and changed it for a moulds set of bases that allows for proper eye relief and weaver style mounts (you can get them high, low, extended,etc.
Scraped the standard stock and had a blank inletted in nicer wood to make one with a proper grip and cast off, high comb, toe out etc.fully floated barrel, epoxy bedded hanger assy. groups factory federal gold partition under 1".


Paulo
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Portugal | Registered: 04 July 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Aglifter:
Anything that makes a dramatic improvement in the gun?.....


Guess the question that comes to mind is, what specific problem needs to be addressed w/ your rifle?

My No.1-S shown above, is box stock (as far as I can tell), w/ the exception of the add on standard height Ruger rings, & the VX-II scope. No bedding / floating / tweaking, etc.

Lot of guys (& I'm no exception) just enjoy the "custom" experience - for it's own sake. Not saying that I won't in this case, but have not felt so compelled to date.

As this rifle shoots sub 3/4 MOA as is, I'd say that ergonomics would be the most likely area for improvement. If I was going to change anything, I would add medium height ('bout 1/8" higher) Ruger rings for more optimum cartridge feeding.


Regards - GCF
"Sometimes you make eight - Sometimes you hit dirt"
 
Posts: 291 | Location: Corpus Christi, TX | Registered: 01 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I gotta agree with gcf. Shoot the rifle before doing anything to it. Of the six I've owned, only one really needed any work and all it needs is a new trigger. Even with its sorry trigger, it still puts 5 shots into 1 1/4" at 100 yards from a 20" barreled Ruger RSI.

Work up some loads and see how it shoots. All the rest have shot less than MOA with the right loads right out of the box.
 
Posts: 1508 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 09 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Exactly, forget "tuning" your new #1 until after shooting it. My #1S in 7mag shot moa out of the box. The only thing I had done after a box of ammo was get the trigger reworked. Now it will stay under 1moa w/ my handloads. The only other thing I like to do is reshape the front of the safety slide so the brass misses it on ejection. beer


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Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by fredj338:
The only other thing I like to do is reshape the front of the safety slide so the brass misses it on ejection. beer


Actually, that's one little mod that would make a lotta difference - & should really be done by the factory on every rifle. Been meaning to get it done, ever since first hearing about it.

Fred, at one point in the past, I believe you specified grinding about 1/10" off the tip - then a light bevel & some cold blue. Is that not correct?


Regards - GCF
"Sometimes you make eight - Sometimes you hit dirt"
 
Posts: 291 | Location: Corpus Christi, TX | Registered: 01 November 2004Reply With Quote
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GCF. In a hunting situation, I just tilt the rifle to the right as I eject the fired round. Seems to cure the problem for me. It seems to work from the .22 Hornet to the 45-70 and all the others in between. Just tilt the rifle to about two o'clock as you work the lever and the rounds fall clear.
Paul B.
 
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul B:
..... Just tilt the rifle to about two o'clock as you work the lever and the rounds fall clear.
Paul B.


I use the same technique myself. Between the "2:00 O'Clock Tilt" & the No.1's steroidal ejection capability, I've never had an ejection problem.

Just seems like ol' Uncle Bill could have improved that one little thing. ;=]

I've also seen custom jobs where the safety was actually inset flush. Pretty nice touch, but doubt I'll be dropping the prerequisite wad of cash, to get it done any time soon....


Regards - GCF
"Sometimes you make eight - Sometimes you hit dirt"
 
Posts: 291 | Location: Corpus Christi, TX | Registered: 01 November 2004Reply With Quote
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gcf, here is a pic. of the mod. I love the recessed safety but you can do this for free.


LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT!
 
Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Tried to contact Canjar to see about their set triggers. They will not return a call so ordered Kepplinger from Brownells. I found that when I polished bottom of the sear.safety bar( behind where origional link to trigger is located) it really smoothed up and eliminated a lot of drag and creep from unset pull. Made for a better pull than original.. Set is fantastic. Have a Moyers on a little 1-a in 7x57 and find it to be fine, Have two more on order for my 375 & 458. Also found the Moulds(sp) speed hammer to help.

Jeff


JJK
 
Posts: 299 | Location: E. Texas, NE Louisiana | Registered: 10 September 2006Reply With Quote
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I made the following improvements on two Rugers #1 and #3. The #3 is a 375 Win and the #1 is a 25-06.

Both have Weaver modified bases for better eye relief.

Both have a wood tension blocks between the hanger and the barrel(+0.032"). See picture

The #1 has a speed hammer and hammer spring. By Brownell.

Both have about 30oz triggers. The #3 was honed to that weight since it has no adjustment screw.

Both rifles have about 8lbs uplift at the forearm tip.

The 25-06 group is at 100yrds with a 100gr TSX at 3420ft. The 375 win is at 50 yrds with a 200gr Factory load







Fred M.
zermel@shaw.ca
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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