The bolt action people use bore guides when cleaning barrels to keep solvent, oil, crud from getting in their actions. What works with the falling blocks? Do I just lay it on its side or upside down and hope?
Thanks,
BL

BL--

Drill the primer pocket out of a fired case about .005 larger than the rod. There's your bore guide.

Thanks for the quick response! I wouldn't have ever thought of that.
BL

Use a boresnake. Get rid of the metal rod completely.

Midway makes bore guides for the Ruger #1 & Browning 78.

I now shoot all bolt actions but...
I got my Ruger 77/22 and 77/22-Hornet BORE GUIDES from Midway USA. They have guides for contenders...?

Hey that drilling of a case works well i guess. Just don't use sweets or any ammonia bases bore cleaners because you will always have patches that come out blue, (it eats the case used as a bore guide) i made this mistake once and never would have thought my contender barrel could copper foul that bad. Well it wasn't the barrel, it was the sweets eating the case i drilled and was making my patches forever blue.

I guess it would work great if you didnt use aggressive copper disolving products such as sweets.

just a word of advice, from my experiences.

A quick and cheap way is just stick a soda straw in the chamber, when it gets too beat-up, go to Mickie-D's and get another one! This works good on a HandiRifle.

First, Sinclair International make bore guides specifically for damn near everything. If you don't mind tinkering however, read on...

For many calibres all you need is a section of aluminum arrow shaft. Hollow, and won't react with bore solvents. I don't know how a graphite one would work -- haven't tested yet.

For bolt actions, I've made a few "deluxe" bore guides by drilling a fired case primer pocket to take an arrow shaft, epoxying it in, then filing a window in the shaft to make a solvent port (copied the idea from commercial boreguides!). I epoxy on a washer at the back of the action to keep the bore guide centred at the back of the action. Final step is to cut the arrow shaft to the right length. If you do all this, the boreguide will do a better job aligning your cleaning rod than a commercial "fits all" type.

For falling blocks, you only need a short section of arrow shaft to keep the solvents out of the action and of course you can skip the centering washer altogether.

If your time is worth anything, you could of course buy a pre-made one for about 20 bucks and save 45 minutes work, but some of us like tinkering around to relax (I often trim or turn cases in front of the idiot box!).

HTH,

jpb

[ 06-06-2003, 23:00: Message edited by: jpb ]