I have been recently been turned on to the idea of a Ruger #1 in a 375 or bigger as a �good gun for Alaska� for moose and bear. I have been looking around and all of the 375�s I�ve seen are between $150 to $200 Dollars more than say the 416, Rem or Rigby, or even the 458 Win. I also see from the threads that some folks have rebarreled the #1 into 450#2 and other �classic British� rounds. Three Questions:
1. What might account for the price difference?
2. What would be the �best� cartridge for Alaska? (I have a hunt setup for next fall)
3. How fast can you get a second shot off accurately? (How much slower is the #1 compared to a Bolt Action?)

Thanks to all for the input.

I'm not sure what is the reason for the price differential, but I'd venture to guess, the .375 weighs much less than the .416s or .458 and the ammo is quite a bit less. The .416 Rigby ammo here in Tucson runs a bit over $100 a box for Federal and depends on which bullet is plugged into the gun. you can usually buy three boxes of .397 H&H for what some of the Rigby rounds run. I would also figure that as .375 H&H ammo is easier to find, the popularity of the round might also be a factor.
While it may not be the most powerful of the rounds you mention, I think I'd go with the .375, primarily because of it's availability. Part of that choice is related to the ability to reload for a quick second shot, should one be needed. The .375 recoils less than the others. BTW, the #1 in .375 is a bit on the heavy side, but #1s in .404 Jeffery, .416 Rigby and .458 Win. are even heavier. I have #1s in all the mentioned cartridges except for the .458, and I have held one in that caliber. I'd estimate the .416 Rigby to weigh anout 10.5 pound without a scope. My .375 weighs about 9.5 with a scope. Something to think about.

Getting into just how fast can you get off a second shot is something else. The first thing I recommend is contacting Wolfe Publishing and see if they have any copies left of the January-February 1976 issue #43. On page 22, there is an article by Al Miller on speedloading the single shot rifle. Much good information there. Much better than what I could put in a post. he does make a point that a well practiced man shooting a single shot can shoot almost as fast as the average person shooting a bolt action rifle. he also say that doesn't hold for an accomplished target shooter well versed in rapid fire.
I'll quote from the article.
"An experienced rifleman equipped with a bolt action - not a trained sustained-fire competitor mind you, but just a guy well acquainted with his gun - can get a second aimed shot off about six seconds after the first is launched. A follow-up shot from a single loader will take eight to ten seconds, depending on the style of action and skill of the man behind the sights. A difference, quite obviously - but not much."

With a little practice following his methods allowed me to get shots off in the eight second range most of the time, once I quit fumbling around. I'm a bit leery about that time frame where the great bears are concerned, but wouldn't worry a whole lot on moose.

FWIW, the late John Taylor, in his book AFRICAN RIFLES AND CARTRIDGES makes comment that whenever he was hunting lions exclusively, he was armed with a single loader. He gave an example where he took on a lion and two lionesses with IIRC, a Martini-Henry single shot.

So, I guess the name of the game is practice a whole lot before you go. I made up a set of dummies, one as an empty round, the other with a bulleted round. I'd simulate recoil and eject the empty and then go through the reloading process. After I was getting really fast doing that, then I did it firing live ammo at the range, first with a properly aimed shot and them after recovering from recoil as quickly as possible. I do believe I was able to shave about a second off his eight second estimate.

One thing I do very strongly recommend, should you decide to go with a #1. Make damn sure the wood on that stock is very well sealed. Ruger does a bit of a piss poor job of sealing the wood under the barrel and in the stock bolt hole. Probably should seal all the open grain ends in the butt under the rubber pad and where the buttstock fits against the receiver. Do take my word on that. My #1 in .300 Win. Mag. soaked up so much water on an Oregon elk hunt that it took over five years to get it shooting back to normal after returning to Arizona. I seal all my #1s now when I acquire a new one, just as a matter of course.
Anyway, enough of my rambling. Hope this was of some help for you.
Paul B.

I live South and East of Alaska in central B.C. My Ruger #1 is a 300 winny and I have a stainless model. I love mine!

We have lots of black and grizzly bears as well as cougar. If you are going to get eaten in the bush it won't be because you only carry a single shot. Here's what I do.

On my stock I carry a bullet sleeve which I carry 2 220Gr. Nosler partitions and 4 165Gr. Hornady interbonds. When I'm in heavy bush and expecting short (under 150 yds) shots, I have a Nosler in the breech. If whatever I'm going to shoot is farther away I change out as the animal is probably not aware of me (make sense to you?). I just learned where these bullets were going to go if I had to pull up and shoot at different distances (practise).

To learn how to load fast I made 4 dummy bullets stuffed them into the stock sleeve and started pretending like I was Quigley downunder in my front room. When I got proficient in getting the shells between the stock and the scope without fumbling much I started to live fire quickly (have now left the front room haha).

Practise and you will be as fast and as accurate on your second shot as any bolt.

Don't get some big exotic caliber that you can't shoot without wincing and that costs 4.00 a shell. 375HH is tops better to go with 338 or 300.

Hope this helped.

Paul B
Thanks for your insight. I was looking at that �the gun writers� Woods and Boddington say that they have used the Ruger #1 on dangerous game and they both say that they would never do it again� Bear especially big brownies do fall into that category; however I�m fairly sure that I will not be going to Africa any time soon so their advice doesn�t seem to fit. This year�s trip is planed for Prince of Wales Island my father-in-law has some land there. We will be looking for Dear and or black bear. Next years trip may be to the interior for caribou and I don�t know what else. (The plans are too far off)

People used the Faquharson rifle for years in Africa till is was surpassed by the modern bolt actions. I will try to get the article you mentioned. Do you know the name of the Magazine? I lived in Fairbanks for years and only bird hunted; I never felt �undergunned� as long as I had a couple of good slugs for my OU shotgun.

Bellhender
Thanks to you also, I am really leaning toward the 375 and latter if it�s doable; get a second barrel in something like 404 or 450#2. To use on the �big� stuff!

OOPS! My bad! It was RIFLE Magazine. Just my opinion, if you later plan on a larger bore, go with the .416 Rigby, or maybe the .416 Remington, although I don't have one yet, and probably won't ever get one. After all, I have my Rigby.
Ruger #1 rifles in .404 Jeffery seem to be hard to come by as only a fairly limited run was ever made. Supposedly, there is a problem with the chamber dimensions as well, although, I'm not really sure just where the problen lies. Did Ruger make bad chambers? Are the companies making ammo and brass making them to different dimensions? I haven't the answer to those questions. It's also a lot easier to find bullets and brass for the Rigby. The only reason I have any components for my .404 is they came with the rifle when I bought it.
If you're only going to do deer and black bear, you don't really need a .375 though. Something lighter would be more than sufficient. However, as I have been known to shoot pocket gophers with a .375 H&H, who am I to say what you should use? Do take heed though on my comments about sealing the stock against moisture. I deadly serious on that matter.
Paul B.

If you are in relatively close quarters and are reasonably sure that you are about to engage a large critter at short range, place two extra rounds between the fingers of your off hand so you can jamb one into the chamber as soon as the other is fired. This is a way the old-timers in Africa reloaded both singles and doubles very quickly.

I recommend the .375 H&H for Alaskan hunting, because in a lot of places you can get a short-range shot or one out to 300 yards in the same hunting terrain. In addition, with the right bullets, it is plenty powerful enough for anything in North America.

A .338WM is another good round in the #1. I have (2), a 7mm Dakota & a .338x74K & hunt quite a bit w/ them. For extra ammo I made a (2) shot elastic holder that goes around the middle of the rifle w/ the rounds on the right side. You can fire & reload w/o taking the rifle from your shoulder. In a hurry I can easily get off a shot every 8-9 sec. I've never had to speed load, but I practice anyway.

I appreciate the ideas. I am receiving a lot of �advice� to buy a bolt gun in rather than the #1. It seems the argument is that you need the follow-up shot and the ability to fire quickly. Oddly some of this advice comes from a guy who shouts a double in 9.3x74. Not that I wouldn�t like a double but I have always had a soft spot for the Ruger. Is there any counter argument that would �sell� my family/co-hunters on the virtues of the #1?

Gents,

This should be a "Five Star Post".
Great give and take.

Roger QSL

The only thing faster for the 2nd shot than a double is a semiauto. Iive hunted w/ bolt guns & #1s, I've never been in a position where I needed a faster 2nd shot than either could provide. The only real down side to the single shot, which is also a plus depending on how you look at it, is it's either loaded or not. If hunting rough country, you need to have the #1 loaded safety on. Some find this uncomfortable. A bolt gun can be carried chamber empty & ready to shoot just by cycling the bolt.
There is a good point in that & I use a bolt gun if I am in thick cover (lodge pole) & reserve the #1s for open country.

I don't think I would try to "sell" anyone on the merits or non-merits of hunting with a Ruger #1 or any other single loader. I do it and I'm enthusiastic as hell about using them, but they are not for everyone. Most of my hunting is for deer, not trophies, but for eating meat so the hunt for horns isn't yjer real deal for me. Yet, I like to hunt. Considering that just about every deer I've takes was a one shot kill and could have been done using a 30-30, I graduated to the single shot.
If I get lucky tonight and hit the Powerball, I'll probably book a hunt in Africa. My single shot rifles will go with me. Probably the .416 Rigby for big stuff and the .300 Win. mag. for the plains game. My point being, I have the confidence that I can do the job with a single loader. I'm not saying I am a great shot, because I'm not. I just try to get as close as I can and put it in the right place the first time.
If you feel confident enough to take on a "big nasty" with a single shot, then do so. If you have any doubt as all, then stick with a bolt action or some other repeater.
After all, only you know what your qualifications are.
Paul B.

I've a No.1 in .45-70 and without going into details I can assert it can be loaded very peppy. The .458 X bullets would be good for AK I would think.

It's quite a bit lighter than the African model, a joy to carry, but enjoys no immunity from the laws of physics upon firing.

Today I heard an interesting �point� about why the #1 is not a good choice for Alaska from a gun shop owner here in Dallas and I thought I would share it with everyone.

�In very cold conditions like those in Alaska, the fireing pin can jam (I assume by freezing) and thus cause a miss fire.� He then followed by saying the same would be true for someone hunting in a very dusty area as well. These problems will also effect the ejector as well. Thus I should buy a CRF bolt rifle and �know� that nothing can go wrong.�

I did not really buy the arguments but thought I should see if there is any truth to the story.

Seems like in a bolt action, the firing pin can jam too from freezing - same reason, oil that freezes. Actually, I see less possibility in this happening the Ruger than in a bolt action rifle, go figure... Solution is easy, use no oil there.
And the ejector? Now that's a new one, Ruger ejectors are adjustable from 'barely' extract to 'throw 'em out vigorously' - but jamming the ejector?! It does not have the extractor power of a bolt action for sure, but assuming reasonable ammo, I cannot see a problem... In the 1000+ necksized rounds I fired in mine, I've yet to find a stuck case in the chamber. And my loads are max., as that is the only way to get the rifle to perform.
Maybe the guy has a higher markup on the bolt actions?

Won a 'Big Game' rapid fire match with my Ruger 458 Lott.

Seems I got 9 rounds away (nine hits)in 30 secs, against the next best; a Brno bolt repeater Mod 602 375H&H that only fired 8!

If a hunter can't passify any thing that moves with a 458 then you must be huntin dinosaures!

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