When I swap barrels it takes several shots for them to come back to zero.I do not have to move the scopes. Anyone else have this problem?

How far off zero are they? If a lot, it sounds like something is loose somewhere.

For 5 or 6 shots they shoot about a 2 inch group, then they shoot their normal groups.About 1 inch. They're right where they supposed to be, I don't have to move the scopes. This is on a 22-250 and 30-06.

Perhaps you could explain in more detail what you are doing.

1. When you say you don't have to move the scopes, can I take it to mean the scopes are permanently attached to the barrels?

2. You indicate that after switching barrels, they shoot their "normal" groups. How many successive "normal" groups have you shot?

3. How many shots in your groups and what is the range at which you are shooting?

I have never had the problem you speak of but my practice, after I switch barrels, is to sight in again and leave that barrel on the gun until I get bored with it a year or two later and want to try something else. It sounds like you switch barrels a lot more than I do.

Does the same thing happen starting with a cold barrel that has not been switched?

I took off the 22-250. When I put the -06 barrel on it took 6 shots to ' settle in'. Then it started shooting 3/4 inch groups one inch high, like last year. I did not have to make any dial adjustments. The 22-250 does the same thing. I guess it isn't a problem, but I thought I could just swap barrels and be ready to go. I don't have this problem with the muzzleloader barrel.

Even though tolerances and clearances are kept tight as possible in todays CNC world, there is still some looseness and misalignment in the barrel/frame hinge pin holes between barrels. Probably the best thing to do is send both barrels and the frame to Dennis Bellm to have the holes reamed uniformly and an oversized pin installed. This also keeps the headspace from changing due to the slight variation in pin and hole dimensions which could account for some inaccuracy and/or sizing/trimming problems.

Plus everytime you take off the forearm some amount of positional change is inevitable... installing a fore end hanger, bedding or fully floating the barrel/forearm will help, not only in taking out the slop put also in helping with the accruacy.

Another thing is to steel epoxy bed the barrels to the rails of the frame...doesn't take much, just a small bead along both rails(it doesn't take much on most frames) make sure the barrels have a release agent...then snap the action closed and let it set up. This will hold/allow the barrels to seat to the same point each time they are fired...basically a "barrel positioner pad" about 2" long.

Do the ream/hinge pin and forearm work first THEN do the bedding...I guarantee you will see a big improvement in accuracy if you also tune you brass and load.

I've done this to all my Encores, Contenders and NEF's. Most shoot equal to my bolt guns that don't live in my rack long if they won't do 0.500" or less with prepped brass and loads.

Depending on the gun there is always a bit of dispersion all around the clock with a barrel change, but with the bull barrels it only takes a couple shots to settle in...or maybe it is just a few firm open and closings that settles everything, I haven't really tested out that theory, I just pop off 2-4 rounds to foul, settle and warm up the barrel before the hunt.

Luck

I would advise you NOT to send the frame to Bellm and to not have the frame/barrel holes reamed. If the barrels are loose in the frame, then an oversized hinge pin may be indicated. If you have anything reamed, then you will have to have every barrel for that frame reamed and resale value on your barrels will go way down.

Since scopes on Encores are mounted directly on the barrel, switching barrels should not make any difference in POI of your groups. The things that will make a difference in POI are:

1. You take your barrel off clean it real well and put it away for a year. When you put it back on your gun, you will be shooting with a clean barrel and the POI and group size will likely be different than when a barrel is fouled.

2. If you leave any oil in the barrel, even a little bit, then POI as well as group sizes will be different until the oil is shot out of the barrel. It isn't a good practice to shoot out of an oiled barrel; the oil should be removed with some solvent before shooting.

I know I'm reviving a thread but...

Have you tried glass bedding the fore end I used to have point of impact issues with my Contenders until I glass bed the fore end to the barrel.

I also try to tighten the fore end screws to the same torque each time I switch the barrels.