The origonal leaver is cut off at the first bend and the cut off piece is reshaped and welded to suit.

This gets rid of the knuckle buster.

That's an old idea for the single shots .Works well for guns without a pistol grip but not normally needed for guns with a pistol grip. With a good welding job it'll look like it came that way !

Mete.
If you read below

Ruger#3 in 375 Winchester

you will notice that my rifle has a #1 stock which is a pistol grip stock. That regular #3 leaver really hammered my fingers with the recoil. In near future I will post a picture of the rifle.

I may have larger hands but I always shoot this design with my fingers on top of the lever and never had any trouble.

quote:

ireload2

Even with a large Hand I can't see how that under lever can be comfortable with a heavy caliber. I have a small hand and I found the lever obnoxiously disturbing.

On the No. 3, I'd like to see a pistol-grip type stock with the lever recontoured to the same curve as the pistol grip, and inletted into the front face of the grip, with a small roller-bearing shaped knob on the tip, inletterd slightly into a cut out space in the front edge of the grip cap, a'la Martini.....
The forend wood would be thinned and shaped with a schnabel and the barrel/stock band eliminated. The front swivel would be on a British type barrel band ahead of the forend tip.

El Deguello
My Ruger #3 has a pistol grip stock, same stock as the #1 and the forearm is like the sporter stock with the Alexander Henry schnable. No stock band on the forearm .

I fashined the lever after this English falling block action below. I don't think inletting the leaver into the stock is an alternate lever design I would consider.

Too much work, besides it leaves sharp wood edges exposed when the lever is open. The #3 action has a ball intent in the lever inside the action which keeps the action closed well enough.

quote:

Too much work, besides it leaves sharp wood edges exposed when the lever is open.

I had not considered this. You are right. It would probably be too easy to damage this sharp edge when the lever is open. Oh well! Seemed like a good idea at the time......

(I sure like the looks of that falling block. Beautiful case colors!)

quote:

Originally posted by ZERMEL:

quote:

ireload2

Even with a large Hand I can't see how that under lever can be comfortable with a heavy caliber. I have a small hand and I found the lever obnoxiously disturbing.

My $3 is a 45/70 and I am use to the lever I guess. Same goes for the Browning 85 in 45/70 and 40/65.

El Daguello

quote:

(I sure like the looks of that falling block. Beautiful case colors!)

Sorry for the omission. The action is a Brooking Arms falling block, Cal 416 Rimmed A-Square by Larry Brace of Eugene Origon.

Scoped with a Leupold VX III 1.5-5x20. The Warren QD rings are also case colored.
By the way my #3 will also have the same scope.

The barrel is Krieger and case color by Doug Turnbull. The rifle is featured in the 2002 Leupold Scope Catalog.

It is a beautyful looking rifle, with an exhibition grade walnut stock. Can't take my eyes off the picture.

Finaly got the Ruger #3 finished and she is ready to go hunting. The rifle is an absolute tack driver.

Tell us about the scope mount base and rings.
Especially the rear base that extends back over the receiver and allows you to position the scope properly.

ireload2.
The rear base is a Weaver #57 fitted to the receiver and the barrel. It has two screw holes in front of the ring. I drilled and tapped a third hole for good measure. This hole is used to align the base, the other two holes are drilled and tapped after the base is set up. The x-slot is in the rear of the base.

A model can be made with modeling clay so you can see where you need to do the grinding and fitting.

After fitting, the base is bedded with Brownell Steel Bed for 100% contact with the center screw semi tight with release agent on the barrel and screw.
At this point the scope is mounted on the rear base and the base is aligned with the center of the bore with the collimater. ( windage)

Same for the #46 front base. Once the Steel bed is set the bases are cleaned up and degreased they are and glued and screwed down with J-B Weld.

The height of the front base and the alignment is done with a Collimator with the scope X-hair in the optical center.

The rings are med. Burris signature with the Plastic inserts kit 5-20 thou.
With these you can remove any minor misalignment to keep the reticle in the optical center. With this system you can move the scope back more than 3/4" depending on the scope.

My #1 25-05 is done the same way for best eye relief.

Scope is a Leupold 1.5-5x with a heavy duplex.