I've owned a lot of #1's over the years, and I've never had one that shot poorly. I'm down to two now that I intend to keep. The top one in the pictures is a #1S in .300 H&H that I foolishly sold over a year ago, but thanks to Biebs it's back in my arsenal forever.

The bottom rifle is a #1T in .375 H&H which just shoots lights out. Both rifles have Zeiss optics for long range shooting. I've taken a lot of game with the .300 H&H. Hope to do the same with the .375.

Thanks for looking at the pics supplied by the tech dept., Biebs.

I only have one No.1 and it took me a while to find out that it only likes the lighter bullets. It's a 270 Win so it's going to be a deer and antelope gun only.

I remember reading an interview with Bill Ruger years ago where he was asked about the accuracy of the No.1. He said sometimes they are very accurate and sometimes just acceptable. He said he tried to figure out how to make them more accurate but he couldn't find a way that would always work without individual alteration. So he gave up.

I've had a couple that gave Winchester 1894 type accuracy and a couple that were MOA or better. My No.3 rechambered to .375 NE 2-1/2" is the latter.

I'm going to keep mine:

I made the "500 Yard Club" going three for three on PDs with a No 1V in .223 a few years ago. I guess it was good enough. I have a couple more waiting for their turn but I keep getting distracted by other guns.

Wow! Nice rifle and nice shooting Frank.

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:
I'm going to keep mine:

Impressive - I would hold on to the rifle forever.

Mike

I have "had" four Ruger #1s.
Two 22PPCs, and a 223, all heavy barrel. And I had an 22 hornet. None had 1" or close to it accuracy. I spent money on various forearm floating schemes, Kepplinger trigger, and other actions, to no benefit.

The worst one I have ever shot was a 45-70, it was inaccurate 3-4 inch groups.

The best was a 375 stainless. It would group any day under half an inch didn't matter what you fed it.

They are like women, so do , some don't.

Dave

Mike's #1 Rifles:

I love mine. Have not ran into one that did not shoot well but I have only shot #1's made after 2002.

CDNN was advertising in their daily email today that the #1's are no longer being manufactured....selling a 9.3x74r for $899

Two piece stocked rifles depend on barrel timing. Fjolt's target shows that. Tight, open; tight, and a pretty damn nice group.

I have two #1's, a 243 and a 470 and a #3 in 22 Hornet.

The 243 will shoot minute of coffee cup all day with an occasional minute of angle group just to keep you on your toes. The 470 will put five into a quarter dollar at 50 yards with open sights, if I do my part. the #3 shoots a little over an inch at 100 yards which is OK.

I've tried everything that I could think of on the 243, barrel pressure, different scopes, etc. and some things that others thought would work. Guess it's saying it needs a new 450-400 barrel.

I have a 1S in 300 H&H that shoots like the rifle shown above. Also have an RSI in 7x57 that shoots much better than it has any right to. A 450/400 is likewise a good shooter, although not quite MOA. It doesn't really need to be though. Just got one of the 6.5 Creedmore rifles. So far, about 1.5 MOA with factory loads. The trigger was very bad and I'm working on that. Also playing with forearm pressure. But who knows, it may not be quite as good as the others.

These are all newer guns. Back in the 80s I had a 1H 375 and a 1A in 30-06. The 375 shot very well, but bullets had to be loaded to accommodate the very long throat. The 30-06 was about a 1.5 MOA gun with anything I tried.

The fore stock is always going to make contact with the barrel on a No. 1 which will interfere with the barrel timing (the back and forth vibration between the breach and the muzzle). This can be over come by “tuning the fore stock”.

Remove any contact of wood between the breach and the very end of the fore stock. The end should be the only contact between the barrel and the stock. If you have to remove some wood, make sure you seal the wood with a wood sealer.

Torque the fore stock screw tight but not too tight.

Work up a load. This can get as involved as you want, including playing around with the torque.

After developing a load and you need to remove the fore stock for cleaning. Take it to the range and “tune” your rifle back to zero with the fore stock screw. Then leave the damn thing alone.

This is my least accurate No 1 I own but I love the little thing.