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Just received my new Lyman mould for the 40/65. This is one of the new 40 cal tapered designs. I note from the catalogue that they also make similar for 45/70 and 30 cal. I believe these are designed to engage the rifling at loading; has anyone tried this design and what results did you get? | ||
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Hello Bad Ass! Just inform you that my Uberti High-Wall .40-65win just arrived! Will soon do some testing with RCBS 350gn(370) CSA, and RCBS 400gn(420) CSA. The rifle looks promising! Will most likeky have to do something about the buttstock for some serious prone shooting. /Johan Karlsson, Sweden | |||
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I haven't used the Lyman, but I am using a tapered bullet of my own design in my 45-70: Borerider nose, and GG section slightly tapered all the way to .460 at the base, starting at around .455. Shoots quite well in my rifle... I even had a Lyman 457125 lookalike made with such a tapered GG section, and a bigger nose (.452) to fit my rifle. It all helps in aligning the bullet in the bore. | |||
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Using my Pedersoli Sharps Shilouette rifle with peep sights, I test fired the Lyman tapered mould (410678)for the 40/65Win at 100 yards today. 62gn Swiss FFG and with the tapered bullet just a mere 2 driving bands into the case to give an O/A length of 3.2" Weather was poor with 35Cdeg, a storm coming (poor light) and winds of 12-15mph chopping over the range. First 10 shot group, which I chronographed at 1334fps av, measured 1.71". After cleaning, the second ten shot group, which was fired very fast because of the approaching storm, went 1.12" with seven shots forming a single ragged hole of just 0.53". I noticed that the first five shots loaded easily and four cut a single hole, three of the second five shots had to be pushed into the breech with the end of a screwdriver indicating that powder fouling will need to be removed every 5 shots in the future. Looks like the similar mould for the 45/70 (457677) will be the next purchase. | |||
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Quote: Forgive me if I overreact, BUT DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU WANT TO DIE! There, I feel better. One nice slip - easily done at 35C (where the heck are you?) or 35F and that primer goes off and you will simply die or wish you would. This is one bad deal for falling block guys. It happens pretty regularly. There is a person out there somewhere that makes a camming lever for forcing bullets into the bore if need be. It's made so you cannot hit the primer. Find one of these - you really really need it. Or else, simply tap the cartridge out from the muzzle lightly and clean - forced cartridges rarely shoot accurately due to lead deformation, too much fouling, and subsequent powder compression. CAREFUL - we don't want to loose ya. Brent | |||
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Don't worry gents, after nearly 40 years of shooting I know what I'm doing. The amount of force required was just a little bit more than finger pressure could manage. You are right about the danger (I did use the non-metal end). I don't like to use the camming action of the block because if I push it home with the finger I can feel if the fouling or an oversize case is the culprit. 35C is 93F in other parts of the world. Turns out that 30 minutes after we left the range, the storm struck and eventually blacked out 120,000 homes unroofed a block of units in central Brisbane with winds of 80mph. One person died and 7 were hospitalised from flying debris. | |||
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Thanks for the tip on the blowtube. I load the powder with a 24" drop tube and then compress with a nylon plug that is two stepped; one side fits into the seating die body and the other side turned to .405 and length adjusted to compress the powder about 0.030" I use a .409 neck expander plug to hold the .410 bullet base. The expander that came with the Lyman dies was only .404 and bullet seating used to damage the base of the projectile. Bullet seating now, well you can't even feel it going in the case. | |||
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