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Ruger # 1 Comment & ?
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I have a Ruger # 1 of which I'm fond, I have only one thing that I would change and that is when the gun is on safe it also locks the block / lever. I found that the opening lever catches on clothing etc. and have found the gun partially open numerous times - not a good thing IMHO. Has anyone attempted to over come this short fall and if so how, other than checking all the time? --- John303.
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
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Maybe I misunderstand but you would prefer placeing the safety in the fire position to unload?
 
Posts: 490 | Registered: 15 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I have an earlier "issue" #1 H Tropical with red butt pad that action can be opened in safe or fire position still cocked {unfired}. R.



 
Posts: 1049 | Location: Cut-n-Shoot, Texas USA | Registered: 15 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Went and checked both of my Ruger Single shots...a #3 and a mid. 80's #1. They both open, cocked or uncocked, regardless of safety position.

As for John303's problem...it should'nt be too difficult to replace the lever catch spring with a much stronger one. That should prevent most accidental opening incidents.
 
Posts: 490 | Registered: 15 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Thank you for your responses, I have thought of a stronger spring and will likely be my first attempt at solving the problem and go from there. I was however thinking/wondering if anyone had modified the safety mechanism to lock the block, I must take the old girl apart and have a look. Does anyone know how to read the serial # for date of production? -- John303.
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
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You might check the Ruger website for a serial # list. As you probably know the early (red recoil pad) #1's and all #3's had adjustable triggers. The later ones were non-adjustable. I've installed a couple of Moyers triggers on the later (non-adjustable) rifles and can tell you that the safety/trigger fitting is a tedious process which usually requires removing just the right amount of metal for correct/safe function. I believe a sucessful modification to get the safety to lock the breech block would very difficult. Good luck.
 
Posts: 490 | Registered: 15 March 2004Reply With Quote
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On Ruger's website they have a number to call and they will give you various info on the No. 1 or other Ruger firearms. I don't ahve it in front of me but it was easy to find on their site.
 
Posts: 100 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 January 2008Reply With Quote
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One other comment on the No. 1 - I have a .243 with a SN of 30XX- a pretty early gun of course. Unfortuateley it didn't ahve orginal wood on it but I got it for $300 or so if I recall.

What is interesting on this gun is that the hole they drilled the back side of the block for the firing pin and the later plugged and welded shut is very visible on this gun. I don't recall seeing this before but I've only had one or two of the very early guns. On all my later No. 1s this welded hole is not visible at all. Is this normal for an early gun or an oddity?
 
Posts: 100 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 January 2008Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by John303.:
I have a Ruger # 1 of which I'm fond, I have only one thing that I would change and that is when the gun is on safe it also locks the block / lever. I found that the opening lever catches on clothing etc. and have found the gun partially open numerous times - not a good thing IMHO. Has anyone attempted to over come this short fall and if so how, other than checking all the time? --- John303.


I have a number of Ruger single-shot rifles. ALL of them can be opened to load/unload when the safety is on. The blocks are NOT LOCKED SHUT when the safety is placed in the "on" position. BUT, you cannot place the safety in the "ON" position before the hammer is cocked.

I do NOT BELIEVE any Ruger SS rifle ever left the factory with a safety that keeps the block closed when engaged. If yours does that, it is some kind of aftermarket alteration! IF you don't like it, send it to Ruger. They will (DO!!, whether you like it or not) remove any non-standard parts when you send a gun back to them for whatever reason!! IF there's anything in there that is not a Ruger factory part, they will send it back to you in a little bag after they remove it.


"Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen."
 
Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the heads up on the adjustable trigger and where to find the prod. date, my # 1 was built in 89-90 and has the red recoil pad. As far as the weld on the block, I once heard a rumor that Ruger at one time had considered locking the block on their # 1's but due to liability concerns dropped this feature, this weld on the block would some sense if this was the case. I would think a rod attached the the safety slid into the block. Interesting to say the least - I still learn something every day. A couple of ?s, anyone else have a # 1 in .300 Weatherby Mag. and does anyone have or know where I can access a schematic of the # 1? --- John303.
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
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John-

Back to the Ruger site - I believe they have a breakdown on parts on line or at the least you can order an instruction manual for free with the parts breakdown in it. As I recall I downloaded a manual in .pdf format and then printed in out on larger paper so I could get a good exploded diagram.
 
Posts: 100 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 January 2008Reply With Quote
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