Opinions?

If not Ruger then who? What price range?

Thanks.

I like the No.1's, myself. Depends on what "class" and style of rifle you are looking for.

There are several makes of falling block actions available, both old and new.
Browning Low Wall and High Wall
Ruger No.1
Dakota No. 10
Hall (known in benchrest circles)
Miller (also known in benchrest circles and owned by Dakota)
Hein
Searcy
Hagn (my personal favorite)
Farquharsons of many makes
Webleys
Frasers
Woodwards
Gibbs Metford

I suppose the Sharps could be classed as a falling block?

quote:

Originally posted by DPhillips:
I suppose the Sharps could be classed as a falling block?

That's sort of like saying "I guess the sun comes up in the morning".

There are several makers of Sharps these days - several models of Sharps to choose from, and then there are Hepburns, Stevens, Winchesters old and new from many different makers, and if you want to stretch the margins - Martinis (they really aren't falling blocks though), among still others.

A Sharps of any make is a fine gun though. 4 models are currently in production from a bunch of different makers.

What price range do you want to play in?

Brent

Really just depends on what you prefer and your budget. The Hagn, Hein & Ballard are probably the finest currently produced but I think the Ruger looks & functions as well as any and the price cannot be beat.

quote:

Originally posted by Brent:

quote:

Originally posted by DPhillips:
I suppose the Sharps could be classed as a falling block?

That's sort of like saying "I guess the sun comes up in the morning".

There are several makers of Sharps these days - several models of Sharps to choose from, and then there are Hepburns, Stevens, Winchesters old and new from many different makers, and if you want to stretch the margins - Martinis (they really aren't falling blocks though), among still others.

A Sharps of any make is a fine gun though. 4 models are currently in production from a bunch of different makers.

What price range do you want to play in?

Brent

Under a grand for rifle alone.

quote:

paa: Under a grand for rifle alone.

Ruger #1. They can still be had on the auction sites for $500-$600. Retail is now about $1150.

quote:

Originally posted by paa:

Under a grand for rifle alone.

That is, admittedly, a tough row to hoe for a nonRuger. But running right at or just under that will be a Pedersoli Sharps 74. It is as accurate, and reliable as any gun made. Looks pretty good unless you are super snob - as I tend towards, but a damn fine rifle. There are cheaper Sharps (other Italians that are not Pedersolis) and they are junk in my opinion.

One possible soon to be exception is Uberti who will be making them with Pedersoli. These could be quite good, but a little less expensive and w/o Pedersoli's bragging-quality barrel.

Uberti is also making a copy of the Winchester Highwall. A fine rifle from what I've heard and in some more modern calibers that would interest me, but others might prefer.

Also in the sub$K range, on the original side fo the equation - a very lucky score on a shootable original highwall. A real long shot that is. More likely would be a good Remington Rolling Block or Trapdoor, but these don't meet the falling block qualifications.

You might also score a varmitized Stevens or Highwall, though the latter is starting to climb fast in value.

I forgot the used B78 Browning version of the Highwall in modern calibers like 7mmMag, .243, etc. I know of one that was available in MSP in 6.5mm as I recall. They run about $7-800, if yo like the modernized mutant of the original 1885 Winnie.

Brent

Well, my first go to would be a Ruger #1. Second would be Browning 78. I found a browning at a guns show a while back for $600 including a decent scope. It's in 30-06 and is as accurate or in some cases more accurate than my Ruger #1s. My biggest gripe with it is it is a lot heavier than my Ruger #1B, also a 30-06. Go figure.
I sometimes wonder why people want a single shot falling block rifle to be a one hole shooter. They're not target rifles, they're purely a sporting rifle in what I like to call a "stalking" rifle. That is, get as close as you can, then get 10 yards closer. Ruger's accuracy gaurantee is 2.0" at 50 yards. Fortunately, most will do better than that. I now have 17 Ruger #1 rifles in my collection, and one one has ever had to go back to Ruger because of lousy accuracy. it came back with a new barrel. I haven't shot the latest one I acquired yet, a #1S 200th year in .300 Win. mag., but I have no doubts it will shoot just fine. It just may be the rifle I take this year for elk, if I'm lucky enought to draw a tag.
Paul B.

I have fired many hundreds of rounds at ground squirrell out to 200 yards with my Ruger #1 in .223.

I have only shot my #1 in 7mm mag a few times at the range.

My favorite gun designs are the 98 Mauser, the #1 Ruger, the Browning Auto-5, and the 1873 Colt.

Paul B.
I agree 100% the #1 or #3 Ruger is the premier action in design and function. I do not agree that they are 2" guns. On the contrary, when properly tuned they are super accurate. I have two Rugers a #1 and a #3 which is revamped ala #1.

Here are two groups the first on is a 25-06 at 100yards and the second one a 375 Winchester #3.
Both have factory barrels.

The 25-06 has accounted for quite a few deer the 375 only punched hole in paper with 200gr win factory loads since I only bought it this Easter for $675Can. The 25-06 was also bought used.

So, Paa, you started this. What's your thoughts? What are you looking to do and what trips your trigger (yeah, that was deliberate, however lame)?

Brent

Zermal. Nice groups. My first Ruger #1 was a #1B 30-06 way back in IIRC, about 1975. The second one was also a B model in .300 Win. mag. With the earlier Nosler semi-spitzer 200 gr, bullets, it would do .375" groups when I did my part. I took it up tp oregon for an elk hunt and got caught in one hell of a rain storm. The wind was so bad the rain was flying horizonatally and that's no joke. The airport at John Day Oregon recorded winds of 120 knots. I figure the wind where I was hunting was maybe 65-70 MPH. This is where I learned that Ruger does a piss poor job of sealing the stocks on #1s. The first thing I do now when I buy another one is remove the wood and give it a proper sealing. FWIW, it took six years for the .300 mag.'s stock to dry out and get back to shooting normally. It's sealed now and is back to normal.
Paul B.

Paul.
Depending where you live a piece of Walnut is never completly dry. In walnut moisture content can vary by several percentage points.

4% is considered very dry. The forearm on a #1 one is the only part you have to worry about.
Pretension the hanger will greatly reduce forearm pressure variation due to moisture and temperature variations.

The way the factory forearm bedding is set up is very good as long it is compareable to what the factory condition are.

I apply 0.032" tension to the hanger at the hanger tip by inserting a hardwood block between the hanger and the barrel.

The hanger seat in the fore arm needs to be relieved by at least that amount or a bit more so the hanger screw will put uplift on the forearm tip same amount as what the factory does. I like a bit more up lift and place a thin layer of silicon coulking at the tip.

This become a repeatable situation even when the moisture changes in the forearm.

Paul B.
I wanted to edit my previous post but there is no edit feature.

Wanted to say it is most important that the stock on the #1 or any other wood stock should be sealed with a good finish to prevent free water to enter the stock, inparticular the forearm.

I know. I found that out the hard way. I seal all mine now when I first buy them.
Paul B.