I own a couple of #1's. My first one for 27 years now. It came to me as a shot out hvy barreled 25-06. I had it re-barreled to a 26" 7X57 and absoutly loved it for over 20 years. Then a few years back I pulled a brand new 300 Win mag barrel off an action for a custom job and my friend and I started talking about what to do w/ the un-shot 300 barrel. Well I deciced to re-barrel the 7X57 to 30 Belted Newton (30-338). It turned out very well and it does have target gun accuracy for a hunting gun, BUT... the recoil kicks my *** and I'm more of a target shooter than a hunter. Now I am going to rebarrel it to 30-40 Kraig for shooting cast bullets. I am looking for info from anyone that has installed a non tapered barrel on a #1. I was told it is a simple job and that all I need to do is use a cutting wheel to make a slice just ahead of the weld on the forend iron not all the way through and bend the iron down to get the clearance I need. Then re-tig weld it up. That sounds too simple. What happens to the hammer strut/main spring geometry. I realize that the forend wood will have to be totaly redone. I'm really looking for a straight 28" barrel look.

HEAD0001: I would really like for you to PM me so I can pick your brain for some load info. I really liked what you had to say about the 200gr GCed load. My friend and I came up with very simular ideas about the 30-40 being a perfect cast bullet cartridge not to mention that there is a pretty big "cast bullet" group at my local club and they have regular 200 yard matches. Right up my alley.

Thanks for any comments, Joe

quote:

I was told it is a simple job and that all I need to do is use a cutting wheel to make a slice just ahead of the weld on the forend iron not all the way through and bend the iron down to get the clearance I need. Then re-tig weld it up. That sounds too simple. What happens to the hammer strut/main spring geometry.

Interesting question but i have no answer.

The picture above is from the original patent application blueprints (1967). The end of the hanger has changed a little from the original design but it appears the angle didn’t. Nor does it appear that the hammer/strut relationship has changed either.

Two things appear to have changed since the patent. The foreend screw wasn't angled to pull the foreend, and it looks like the original had some sort of adjustable bedding device (#68).

SxS-boy,
Post your question at the American Single Shot Rifle Assoc. website..
http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl

quote:

Originally posted by Art S.:
Two things appear to have changed since the patent. The foreend screw wasn't angled to pull the foreend, and it looks like the original had some sort of adjustable bedding device (#68).

Sorry, I should have posted pictures of both sides of the hanger. #68 refers to the location on the hanger for the extractor/ejector adjustment location.

dpcd,

One could argue one way or the other weather the forend iron touching the barrel would make a differance. Personaly I don't it would make a differance on a #1. However, my other #1 is a 22-250 and after the groups started to open up a little I rebarreled it with a Shillen #5. In geting ready to do the job I made all kinds of measurements. I used every bit of the thick end of the shank wanting to get as much barrel as possible. When I started to get close on thethreads I tried to screw on the action and ran into the problem of the threads not lining up with the reviever. I had to back up and totally re-group. It wasn't a big deal with the exception of a waisted afternoon.

MICINCOLO... thanks for the prints. I have a differant understanding of what needs to be done now and I'll let you know what happens aftet I get the new barrel. Probably early next year.

Thanks Again, Joe

quote:

I'll let you know what happens aftet I get the new barrel. Probably early next year.

Great! It will be interesting to see how your project turns out.