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I took delivery of my Ruger yesterday and have searched a couple of locations on this site and elsewere, I'm looking for some help with trigger adjustment. My rifle has the 2 screws located in the trigger, which one changes the trigger weight, at the moment it's very heavy, above 2kgs/5lbs. | ||
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One of Us |
If this is a new No. 1 those screws don’t do much of anything. A little over travel adjustment is about it. When the Ruger No. 1 first came out and until the late 1970s Ruger actually had an adjustable trigger (called the 3 screw) but since those early days the No. 1 comes with what is call the “Lawyer’s trigger” (called the 2 screw). If you don’t like the pull weight you’ll need it worked on by a gunsmith or change it out. I have five No. 1s at this time and I just change the triggers out, I don’t bother trying to get the “Lawyer trigger” to work. The 2 screw trigger The 3 screw trigger Here is a single set trigger I have in my No. 1 V 220 Swift but it’s $$$. | |||
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I have a Kepplinger single set on my #1 22PPC Varmint. I believe it is the one in the pic above. It is very pricey, but an awesome trigger. As mentioned, the two screws in the stock trigger are essentially worthless. NRA Patron member | |||
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The Moyers trigger for the #1 is not expensive and it works. | |||
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jim kobe has smoothed out some of my #1 triggers to make them very livable indeed | |||
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Are these still available somewhere? I thought they were no longer being made??? I had one on a No.1 in .22/.250 and it was a big improvement over my other No.1 triggers. | |||
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If you find a trigger here is a write up of the installation process. It is not exactly a drop in part for either finish or function | |||
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Thanks, I've been looking for them. Not interested in installing myself, will let my gunsmith do it. | |||
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I took my rifle to a local smith, he's reduced the factory trigger from 8 lbs down to 2.75lbs, while he had it apart I had a recoil reducer(mule) fitted and a Kick-Ezz pad. It's a different rifle, almost fun to shoot off the bench(not really), recoils straight back and doesn't jump out of the hand. I've tried the 300 Barnes TSX and 300 Hornady SPBT, both are travelling above 2400fps and have almost coinciding points of impact. The 270 Hornady SP is travelling at 2485fps and shoots an inch higher. Happy camper now | |||
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Hello, I just happened to note your problem with the Ruger number 1 trigger. They do seem to be problimatical. We have solved the problem with the Kepplinger - Single Set trigger. they are absolutely brilliant. The trigger is smooth and crisp if you do not wish to use the Set Trigger and fantastic for long shots where trigger pull may make the absolute difference between success and disaster. They are available from Brownell's www.brownells.com item number 495-100-001. Have placed them on several Number 1's in .375 H&H. Hopefully this is of some assistance. Glenn
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I have 5 #1's and have replaced the triggers on all. The 375H&H & 458 Win have modified Moyers. The later model Moyers were rather rough castings, so I reshaped, smoothed and polished them to my liking. A nice smooth faced trigger, the face angled for a right handed shooter. It probably took 1 to 1.5 hours each for my modifications. They do adjust nicely. The other three, 22 Hornet, 7x57 and 30-06 have the Kepplinger. If you look in the pictures posted earlier you will notice that it does away with the linkage from the trigger to sear bar. I found by lightly stoneing and polishing the bottom of the sear bar and the top of the trigger housing where they contact and move improves the non set trigger pull, making it much smoother. JJK | |||
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Here's a #1 I've been working on with Roger Kehr doing the engraving. Mark Penrod built and installed the trigger. It is a great looking trigger as well as being crisp & clean. I would recommend the Penrod trigger to anyone interested in upgrading their #1. This is not a bargain priced upgrade, however it's well worth it for a classy build. | |||
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Latest update on trigger. After my smith did the trigger, he advised that the weight was now 2.75lbs, but after using the rifle it felt heavier, so I measured it, it was still above 4.5lbs. I felt ripped off. I took the rifle to a different smith that I've used before, after a couple of weeks he was about to start work, but due to a mix up in communication he didn't do the job, but he and a couple of others at the range said 4.5lbs was fine for a DGR, I was unconvinced but decided to try and get used to it at 4.5lbs. Well that didn't last long as I just couldn't get a good release and so decided to tackle the job myself. It wasn't as hard as you might think, took about 4 hours in total which was a couple reassembly and try before proceeding. What I found was the first smith, the one I trusted and who has worked on plenty of Ruger No1's simply lubricated the moving parts of the action and used a linishing wheel to polish the hammer and sear, the sear ended up rounded. I stoned the sear to restore the mating surfaces and reduced the hammer notch slightly to remove a rounded edge. I tried substituting the sear and trigger springs, ultimately the best combination was a lighter and longer sear spring and retained the factory trigger spring, further improvement could be had by using a slightly lower powered hammer spring or by cutting off a coil as it was too long to be removed anyway and had to be futher compressed to get it out of it's notch. Final result is a trigger weight of 3.1lbbs, and no creep, not perfect but better than the smith and I could have saved some money. Just shows you can't trust people even ones you've known for 20 plus years. | |||
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