just got myself a new ruger no. 1 standard in 30-06. pretty excited about it but from what i have heard the trigger pull and accuracy out of the box isnt all that hot. can someone link me to a no.1 forum or anywhere i can get more info about new/better triggers and how to improve accuracy. I dont want to be spending gobs of money on this thing. one more problem, currently i have a redfield 6-18x scope on it and it feels like i have to move my head wayy to far forward to get it into focus. (seems like a need a scope with a greater eye relief). anyone else have this problem? im not unusually small or anything 6' tall. ...weard. thanks for your help!

devin

Here's a link to a related thread:
https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=518103&f=9421043&m=980109151

The problems with #1s don't seem to be blanket issues. I've had my 1B in .257 Roberts for close to eight years now and it has shot sub-MOA without need of adjustment. The trigger pull on mine is slightly heavy (about 6-lbs.), but breaks clean. I've been meaning to either have this one reworked or install a Moyers unit, but it hasn't really been much of a headache to me.

Someone once told me that the #1 doesn't have any more accuracy issues than any other rifle, just different solutions. That seems to be true.

As for your stock crawling, I don't know. Maybe try a different scope?

To solve the eye relief on your scope, you could get a set of either single or double offset rings to move the scope back.
The rings can be purchased on Ruger's website

thanks a lot for your help guys! i havent had a chance to take her out and shoot but when i do ill let ya know.

thanks
devin

went to rugers site and couldnt find the single or double offset rings. can you link me to that page?

thanks
devin

I have the same problem with my #1, I have tried several different scopes with very little help. Finally, I had to buy some Ruger to Weaver adaptors and use Weaver extended rings NOT pretty but it does work.

I've been thinking of making up some custom rings to move the scope back while using the Ruger rail but have not had time.

Good luck,

Marcos (elalto)

The February 2005 isue of Shooting Times is now on the news stands. It contains an article by Reid Coffield concerning this issue. His techniques are similar to the ones I used on my 1B SS in 7mm STW.
According to Jim Carmichael in The Book of the Rifle, many #1 are very accurate out of the box, but a lot of them are not.
Those that are not, often respond to barrel bedding adjustment. My 7mm was one of the inaccurate ones, and it did respond to freefloating.
Freefloating the barrel reduced group sizes to moa. I have since added the Hicks accurizer and have acheived better than 1/2 moa for three shots.
Hopefully yours is one of the accurate ones, if not there are solutions available.
I also had my trigger adjusted by a local gunsmith, he lightened it to about three pounds and removed most of the creep. The creep is beginning to return though.
I understand that a reproduction of the original adjustable #1 trigger is available, and is easily installed.
That will probably be my next project for this rifle.
I have a Burris Fullfield II 4-12 x 40 mounted on my #1. The body of this scope is long enough to achieve proper eye relief, and the adjustments are very repeatable.

My Ruger No.1 in 22 Hornet had accuracy problems from the day I bought it new. I had read several articles by John Barsness, and two other authors about fixes as there are many new Number 1's that don't shoot up to their potential.
Mine would give 1 1/2" groups vertically, and about 1/2" laterally at 50 yards. I progressed through several potential fixes, like free floating the barrel, releiving all interface contact between the receiver and mating surfaces, especially the rib on top, and the forend, did a trigger job, with no marked improvement in accuracy. Finally, Al Seigrist drilled and tapped a hole in the forearm hanger and installed a set screw that contacts the bottom of the barrel. This serves as way of tuning the barrel. I had to play with the force of the screw hitting the barrel, but it now shoots far better than I ever expected a Hornet to shoot. So, I'm a happy camper. But, if I had it to over again, I would save all of the time and effort fooling around with intermediate fixes and go straight to the set screw through the hanger, along with the other fixes I mantion and have it all done at one time. I played with the thing for a very long time, which I could have saved.
I'm now getting 5/16" three shot groups at 50 yards using H-110 powder. I'm going after Lil-Gun next.
Don
Edit: Moyers makes a repro trigger for the No.1. That's what I put in mine.

DMB. You're better off going with the Hick's Accurizer. It does the same thing as drilling and tapping the hanger, but, you don't have the risk of the gunsmith screwing up the hanger which would leave you S.O.L.
Another good point about the Hicks is you don't have to remove the forearm to make the adjustments. I've done it both ways, and it's a better mouse trap IMHO.
Paul B.

I agree with paul hicks is the way to go Dayton/Traistor makes a pretty good trigger.The problem with a lot of rugers is the bore diameter is oversize but you can usually find a bullet they like I love the damn things but can be a pain to get to shoot accurately.w/regards

devin,

I bought a new #1 yesterday. Like you, I did alot of reading about how to fix issues if they arise. Well after todays first range session, it doesn't look like ANY fixes are needed for the time being. I am totally pleased with the first 20 rounds today. Mine is one of the limited run versions; walnut and stainless in 7.62x39mm. I gave it a good cleaning as referenced in the owners manual. Put a Nikon Monarch 1.5-45x20 scope on it and headed to the range. I was shooting the Winchester 123gr FMJ.
My point is, do what you need to do to get ready and GO SHOOT THAT RIFLE. I hope your experience with a #1 was rewarding as mine was today. If not, the knowledge on this website will get your there.

Good luck and have fun,

J Scott

Hi Paul,
I didn't know about the Hicks when I was doing my fumbling around.. Wish I had known about it before.
On the next No.1, I'll go that route.
Thanks for the advice..Much appreciated.
Take care,
Don
Edit: I have this strong feeling there's going to be another No.1 in my life, in a Hornet, but this one will get a K-Hornet chamber... Or, maybe a Martini in K-Hornet

quote:

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Originally posted by devinjb2:
went to rugers site and couldnt find the single or double offset rings. can you link me to that page?

thanks
devin

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CLICK D LINK

These are also available from Brownell's as item numbers 834-003-400 and 834-003-150 for $41.35 and $43.21, respectively.

Prior to spending any money on offset rings, call Ruger's Newport facility customer service at 603-865-2442 and describe your problem. I had a scope mounting issue on another Ruger rifle a few years ago and received a new set of rings, NO CHARGE. I've known of a few other individuals having this experience over the years as well.

quote:

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Originally posted by DMB:
Hi Paul,
I didn't know about the Hicks when I was doing my fumbling around.. Wish I had known about it before.
On the next No.1, I'll go that route.
Thanks for the advice..Much appreciated.
Take care,
Don
Edit: I have this strong feeling there's going to be another No.1 in my life, in a Hornet, but this one will get a K-Hornet chamber... Or, maybe a Martini in K-Hornet

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The Hicks Accurizer is quite a device, but chances are the reason you didn't hear about it was due to its lack of availability. After the initial run of these accurizers ran out, they were scarce as hen's teeth until just within the last year or so. According to Jeff Hicks' web page, the E. Arthur Brown Company has an exclusive manufacturing and marketing agreement (they also offer installation).

Hicks Accurizer

Jeff Hicks' Web Page

I have an artical from RIFLE magazine that has a poor man's version of the Hicks. It is 7 large files I can email if you wish


Here is link to the Ruger rings
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FASRFACat?facode=2

well i ended up just sliding back the scope in the rings that came with sacrafising looks but it works just fine now and doesnt look as bad as id expected it to. went out and shot 10 rounds through it and enjoyed it. dont have an indoor ranger here in des moines iowa and its cold as hell so didnt really get to check the accuracy as id like to have had. one of these days ill get it to a range. thanks A LOT for your guys' help. and about just loving no. 1's...ive always had a love for them. ever since i can remember my dad has had one that he bought new in 1978 and still has it in near new condition. remember when i was little and he took me out and blew up a couple crows with it, wanted one ever since Happy Hunting!

best wishes,
devin

Thanks again for the Hicks info guys. I know I spent about a year screwing around with my No.1 before it got to shooting good. I'll find a Hicks the next time. And, I was reading everything I could find at the time to do the right fix. My buddy has a Number 1 in 25/06 and had the same problem as mine. He wound up doing the drill and tap fix, which solved the problem. Ross Seyfried and a guy by the name of Herold I think, wrote articles, all basically the same, that sent us to do the drill and tap thing.
Don

The Ruger-1 Group on Yahoo.com has lots of good info. You might just cut a neoprene washer to fit and install it between the hanger and forearm.That helps and is the simplest fix. Also ,the Keplinger set trigger is a great improvement over the Ruger trigger.

quote:

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Originally posted by devinjb2:
well i ended up just sliding back the scope in the rings that came with sacrafising looks but it works just fine now and doesnt look as bad as id expected it to. went out and shot 10 rounds through it and enjoyed it. dont have an indoor ranger here in des moines iowa and its cold as hell so didnt really get to check the accuracy as id like to have had. one of these days ill get it to a range. thanks A LOT for your guys' help. and about just loving no. 1's...ive always had a love for them. ever since i can remember my dad has had one that he bought new in 1978 and still has it in near new condition. remember when i was little and he took me out and blew up a couple crows with it, wanted one ever since Happy Hunting!best wishes,devin

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devin, now you'll have to let us know how that gun shoots! good luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by Hairtrigger:
I have an artical from RIFLE magazine that has a poor man's version of the Hicks. It is 7 large files I can email if you wish


Here is link to the Ruger rings
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FASRFACat?facode=2

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Hairtrigger, I sent you a PM

Ruger #1 trick number 43.

Take two rubber washers (very small like 1/4 inch). Place one fore and aft of the forend screw. Tighten the whole schmere down and head to the range.

You have just free floated the stock.

Never had one this didn't work on. Beats the hell out of paying some asshole $100 for his wonder cure.

I had a Ruger #1 that would shoot patterns, not groups. I sold it and never looked back! Good luck!

You know what they say, "you can make a good rifle shoot great, but you cannot make a bad rifle shoot good."

Very interesting posts .....

I own 4 Ruger #1's and have owned more than that. Most all of them shot very well and some shoot exceptionally well. A friend of mine and I target shoot at long range with #1's and have done so for many years. This past Sat. he fired a 7 inch 5-shot group at 1000 yrds and I fired one that was just under 10. Both rifles are chambered for the 375 HH.....and that's all I'll say about that.....I think the basic problem that people encounter with the #1 is that they are not as easy to develope accurate loads for as a bolt gun. Sometimes it takes a great deal of effort and experimentation to find an accurate load but I have found that they are out there if you're willing to look. In addition to this, it is an extremely strong action and comes in a package that is several inches shorter than the same cartridge in a bolt gun. Good luck.

About two months ago, I picked up somebody's idea of a custom rifle built on a ruger #1 action. They put a nicely shaped stock, meatal buttplate and a neat fairly short forearm with the sling swivel out on the barrel. The finish on the stock sucked, but that would be easliy fixed. They'd put a Remington barrel on it chambered to the .223 Rem. To be kind, that POS wouldn't do better tham 3.4 to 4" at 100 yords. here I thought I'd found me a cool walkabout coyote gun. Well, I put a Hicks accurizer on it and it did cut the groups by almost half. Still not good enough. FWIW, I'd named the gun the REMGER. I took it to my gunsmith and he did a full glass bed job on the forearm. No help there. Finally, using a borescope, we determined the barrel was bad. He had a brand new remington .223 barrel that he'd pulled off a customer's gun and let me have it cheap. The installation wasn't though. Well, I took it out to the range today and sighted it in. I then shot for groups. The first onewas .75" discounting a flyer tthat may have been my fault, maybe not.???? The second one, after tweaking the Hicks accurizer was .625" discounting one called flyer, at the ten o'clock position opening the group to 1.25" Methinks the REMGER, now named THE MONEY PIT wil turn out to be a pretty good shooter after all. All I know is if I wanted to sell that one, I'd have to find somebody awfully darn dumb to allow me to break even.
Sometimes you win one, sometimes you lose one. I may call this one a draw.
Paul B.

I have (2) #1S rifles now, one has a factory bbl. the other a custom bbl. Both rifles shoot MOA or a bit better. The custom one has had forend work, I think it's a form of the Hick's. The factory one is stock. I had both triggers reworked to get them to a reasonable 3-3.5#. I use the VXIII 2.5x8 on each & I have to crawl the stock just a little, but it's fine. I like the #1, very calssie rifles. Shoot oyur first before you worry about accurizing. The trigger though, has to be reworked or replaced.

i dont know about you guys but iv owens over a dozen ruger 1's from 6mm rem all the way up to 458 lott and all are moa rifles right out of the box at 100 yards and with factory ammo mind you i only buy 1 box then i hand load from then on.

I wish I had read a forum like this back in the late 60's it would have saved me a nice 1B. I picked up a 25-06 with exceptional wood! I imediately headed for the range with a box of factory ammo and to say the least I was very dissapointed. The rfle shot all over the paper from a rest (4 and 5 inch groups) I tried several things and eventually sold the rifle, with bad feelings toward the #1's. I have since had numerouse Ruger #1's and have had no problems with them at all. I still have a .223 that will shoot a .46 group at 100yds with 55gn Sierra semi pointed bullet but the rascal will open up to 1 1/2 inch groups with spitzers????? go figure Take care and God bless


cordell

My understanding is that you can indeed accurize a Ruger No. 1 but it's by no means cheap. For a long time one of the problems was the forend, but that appears to be solved now by hanging. I think they're the prettiest U.S. rifle made and would love to have one, but the accuracy problems have steered me away. It's just too much a case of hit or miss. You can't really blame Ruger because the Brownings had pretty much the same problems. The difficulty is with the design necessary for that type of firearm. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

cordell, some of the early #1s had poor barrels & nothing could really make them shoot. It sounds like you had one of those back in the day. The newer rifles are very accurate. I would'nt hesitate to buy another.

I bought a #1 in 22-250 around 1985 or so. A few of my friends also bought them. No problems with any of them. Never knew any person at all who had problems with rugers. If yours doesnt satisfy you, break out your reloading books and work up a load for it. Thats what the sport is all about. You think Ken Waters got all his loads off of a computer.

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
cordell, some of the early #1s had poor barrels & nothing could really make them shoot. It sounds like you had one of those back in the day. The newer rifles are very accurate. I would'nt hesitate to buy another.

How early? I bought a 7 Mag. 1B in 1968 which has a serial number in the 6K range, and it has ALWAYS shot well. It has always done like this at 200 yards with 140, 160, and 175-grain bullets.

I have a deposit on a 25-06 #1B that is in very good condition and going for $750 (note guns are much more expensive in the UK)

The gun needs to be repeatably accurate to 0.75moa worst, have a 2lb trigger and be able to wear a bipod or be shot in different positions without affecting accuracy.

I love the idea of the 26" barrel in a usable rifle but if I have to buy a different trigger and use a non free floated forend to get it accurate it is patently not what I need.