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| My 1V 22PPC has had the forend relieved so it doesn't contact the action and the forewood glass bedded to the hanger so the barrel is completly free floating from the receiver forward. Has shot a small of 0.210"
Hold still varmint; while I plugs yer! If'n I miss, our band of 45/70 brothers, will fill yer full of lead!
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| Posts: 1785 | Location: Kingaroy, Australia | Registered: 29 April 2002 | 
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| I have an article from RIFLE #191 magazine I am emailing to you. Not sure if it will fit into MSN's emailbox
I am one gun away from being happy
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| Posts: 907 | Location: NW OH | Registered: 19 January 2003 | 
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| K20350, For Tricks with the Hicks try the Ruger # 1 Group at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/RUGER-1 there's about 450 members that are in that group that are dedicated Ruger # 1 users. I'm sure someone there will have some tips for you. In fact they have a Ruger # 1 Bench Rest Match coming up this spring so these guys are shooters and tend to know how to make a # 1 shoot. S/S |
| Posts: 30 | Location: Eastern PA | Registered: 30 December 2005 | 
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| Try backing off the Hicks set screw until there is no contact. Can you still slide a thin piece of paper between the wood and barrel? If so then place paper shims (.012" NRA target paper works well) between the forend tip and the barrel until their is some upward pressure on the barrel. Play with the Hicks and paper shims until you get the barrel to settle down. When you find the correct shim thickness (good accuracy) replace the shim with a dab of clear silicone. Be sure to use some kind of mold release on the barrel. This has worked well on all my #1's and 3's. For some reason complete "free floating" has never worked for me with Ruger single shots. A little forend tip pressure is necessary (with or without the Hicks) and has never caused vertical stringing...at least for me. Also, I always rest for forearm on the sand bags...not the barrel. Don't give up. You've got a nice rifle and unless the problem is something besides bedding you should be able to get it to shoot. Good luck...
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| FWIW, I also own a #1V in 25-06, and it also shot patterns 1st time out with factory loads. But when I switched to handloads, groups got nice and tight.... I think I still have some of these factory loads somewhere. These rifles have a rather long throat, and most factory stuff has deeply-seated bullets, meaning long bullet jump and lousy accuracy (JMO). I found I really needed to handload in order to get good performance from my rifle, seating the bullet out to touch the lands (way over OAL spec, BTW)
Martini's Rule!
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| I would hear the results when you get it done
I am one gun away from being happy
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| Posts: 907 | Location: NW OH | Registered: 19 January 2003 | 
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| The good news is that a No 1 can shoot right with the best of them....I've built three that a good shooter can get .2 or better. The bad news is that the 1979 factory barrel probably looks much better than it will shoot. Many of these are a POS! All of those hanger/fore end tricks work, and I use my version of them all, but you still can't polish a turd.There are plenty out there that will shoot, but I've never owned a 1 B with a factory cm barrel that would. An early No 1 is often so beautiful that it is worth the effort/cost of a custom barrel. Don't get discouraged, your efforts will eventually be rewarded. David
'make a rancher grin, kill a coyote"
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| Posts: 7 | Location: Big Spring, TX, USA | Registered: 22 April 2003 | 
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| Posts: 260 | Location: Dartmouth, Massachusetts, USA | Registered: 30 December 2003 | 
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