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OXPHO-BLUE
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I was wondering if anybody has used this stuff from Brownells. In their catalog they make it sound like its better than anything ever made before. I would like to know if its just for touch ups or if a mauser barrled action could be made to look pretty good with this oxpho-blue. Another type that might work for me looks like their Dicropan IM they say more labor is involved with this stuff but the end product would be better. Any comments or tips would be much help to me. I have a few guns that could use some help in the blueing department they don't have to be show room quality but somewhat even would be nice.
 
Posts: 215 | Location: BRF mid west WI. | Registered: 28 February 2003Reply With Quote
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I've used it and Dicropan. Don't expect wonders on any large surface and confine it to the area needing bluing. I've never met a cold blue that blended well. Prep is everything, TCE is maybe the best but just get the surface absolutely clean. Warming the parts helps.

Dicropan tends to be blacker. Good luck. Or at least better than mine.
 
Posts: 612 | Location: Atlanta, GA USA | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Don't waste your time,it's over priced and does'nt work worth a crap. I prefer G96 blue creme. turns black as coal and polish's quick and easy and last fairly long,and it's cheap.
 
Posts: 13 | Registered: 30 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Every piece of steel seems to have a different preference for cold blue process.

My first attemp at finding what a piece of steel wants is:
Degrease
Dicropan rubbed in with Scotch brite
Degrease
Dicropan rubbed in with scotch brite
Degrease
Oxpho blue rubbed in with scotch brite
Degrease
Oxpho blue rubbed in with Scotch brite
Add motor oil
Leave overnight
Rub dry
Degrease
Dry
Oil


If the object is round, I put it in the lathe for power rubbing.

I like a dark but low durabilty blue like Dicropan to be applied first, to get in the micro grooves of the steel.

I apply a tough, but not so dark blue, like Oxpho second, to the micro ridges.

Oxpho gets darker overnight under oil.

I rub just hard enough so that the blue is not rubbed off.


Some of my stuff turns out terrible, and some of my stuff, like a Lothar Walther barrel turns out so good no one will believe it is cold blue.
 
Posts: 2249 | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Do I need boiling water to do the degreasing or is there a simpler way to go about that process. Thanks for the replys.
 
Posts: 215 | Location: BRF mid west WI. | Registered: 28 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Casey's expensive degreaser is better, but I just use Simple Green detergent, that is very cheap at Costco. Easy on the skin, but don't breath the spray.

I don't boil anything, yet.

I want to try some other ways, as the cold blue only looks good on some steel.
 
Posts: 2249 | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I have used the Oxphoblue paste with moderate success. I have gotten good coverage and good color. The thing I didn't like is that it comes off and you will need to reapply after a while. The more highly polished the steel is will bring better results.
 
Posts: 281 | Location: MN | Registered: 27 May 2001Reply With Quote
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