Jim Kobe ; I'm posting these for you primarily as you were instrumental in the work that counts most !. I again Thank You . For the rest of you enjoy .

The stock wasn't half bad once I sanded it down and steamed out some of those nasty dings it had in it . I got about 96% out .
One photo shows what appears to be a crack in the Butt stock , It isn't however . It's a Dog hair that landed on the stock as I snapped the picture . Real color is Medium Brown with a slight reddish tint very slight . I did the direct sun light shots so as to high lite the grain on that original 50's Remington stock .

For a Stock Stock , thought it had nice grain .

The finish is Akzo's Lesonal a popular Aerospace Clear . Knocked down to a low luster satin with 3M Finesse-it 11 . Rock Hard durable looks like an Oil finish .

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As for how it shoots , tomorrow will tell !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Looks good.

Dr.K,

Great job on the stock. It looks just like it came from the factory.
What caliber is that 722?

Don

Dr. K,

I agree. Looks great! I would also ask the caliber? I have a Rem 722 in my closet that is in 300 Savage and love it. In fact Vapodog did the bolt on it and looks superb! Just like it came from the factory and its a 56 year old rifle.

I forgot to post that it's in .222 or triple duce .
Now If only the bolt were on the correct side of the weapon , I would sing . Second thought perhaps just clap . Mans got to know his limitations !. I'm a lefty but it never stopped me from shooting RH actions before .

Unfortunately what Jim did is hidden !. I can tell you His work looks every bit as good on the inside , as I tried to make it look on the out side .

However I know his work is crucial for the weapons performance capability's . So it's why I wanted him to see what it now looked like .

I stripped cleaned and sanded the stock steamed the dings and dents . It had a few . I then sand cleaned it and dried it for a few days . While I worked on the metal and re blued it .
It didn't really need it except there were these metal dings in the rear of the tang behind the bolt . I guess that's what it's called ?.( I'm no Gun Smith so I don't know ).

Any way I had to file the metal to get those dings out of it . I don't know what or how they were caused ?. I took the Gun in partial trade for services rendered .

Besides I wanted it a little , well almost blue black in color . It is now !!.

I then sealed the stock with urethane sealer a plural component concoction , then lightly abraded that surface with 400 grit paper .

Then after tacking it off , I shot it with the clear two days 4 coats . Repeated light abrasion tacking and shooting clear . It looked like molded plastic !. The wood grain looked a foot deep but was so shiny like 97.5 on a gloss meter !. YUK !.

So I let in dry for two days , then knocked it down with 400 , 600 , 800, 1200, then the polishing compound 3M's Finesse-it 11 ( 2 )

Does anyone know how or where to look up serial numbers for Remington's ?. I would like to know the date of manufacture is all .
I'm guessing around mid 50's but it's just my guess !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Thanks! Only now I wish I could remember what it was I did to it.

Jim

quote:

Thanks! Only now I wish I could remember what it was I did to it

Man I hate it when that happens.
Dr K nice looking rifle.

it is a well known fact that jim does his best work in unseen places

If you don't know when it was made, you can't tell if it's a C&R. Here's some info I copied from another site:

Remington Year of Manufacture Codes maybe found on the barrel of your Remington rifle [or shotgun] on the left side, just forward of the receiver; the first letter of the Code is the month of manufacture, followed by one or two letters which are the year of manufacture. For shotguns with removeable barrels, the code will be valid for the manufacture of the barrel; maybe for the receiver, as barrels do get switched around.

According to the "Blue Book of Gun Values", the coding continues as follows:

Month Codes: [first letter]
B - L - A - C - K - P - O - W - D - E - R - X
1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12

Year:______Code: [second (and third*) letters]
1950_______ WW
1951_______ XX
1952_______ YY
1953_______ ZZ
1954_______ A
1955_______ B
1956_______ C
1957_______ D
1958_______ E
1959_______ F

1960_______ G
1961_______ H
1962_______ J
1963_______ K
1964_______ L
1965_______ M
1966_______ N
1967_______ P
1968_______ R
1969_______ S

1970_______ T
1971_______ U
1972_______ W
1973_______ X
1974_______ Y
1975_______ Z
1976_______ I
1977_______ O
1978_______ Q
1979_______ V

1980_______ A
1981_______ B
1982_______ C
1983_______ D
1984_______ E
1985_______ F
1986_______ G
1987_______ H
1988_______ I
1989_______ J

1990_______ K
1991_______ L
1992_______ M
1993_______ N
1994_______ O
1995_______ P
1996_______ Q
1997_______ R
1998_______ S
1999_______ T
2000_______ U
2001_______ W
2002_______ X

* the years 1943 though 1953 had double letters: ie, MM = 1943

As maybe seen, the year code letters duplicate; some knowledge of when the model was introduced should resolve the actual year of manufacture.

If this is correct then it appears I have a November 1955 manufacture .

Thank You DMB !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...