I know all the horror stories about two piece stocks but does anyone know what it takes to fine tune a Ruger #1. I'm willing to go the distance. Thanks in advance.
Posts: 44 | Location: Deer Park, WA. 99006 | Registered: 23 April 2002
Ross Seyfried did an article for Rifle I believe, concerning this topic. there are also a couple of articles in the NRA Gunsmithing book. Most of the tuning revolves around making the front hanger and the forestock a working combination, if I recollect. good luck. - Dan
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001
I know there have been previous posts in the last year or so onthis subject. Also, I have been told Brownell's sells a weighted hanger end? that will take a lot of the effort out of the tuning some have mentiuoned in the past. Never tried it myself- just heard from a smith.
Posts: 168 | Location: Lyndonville, NY USA, en route to Central Square | Registered: 24 July 2000
It's fairly common to find receiver threads totally out of square with the action.....and breech bolt races now square with the threads....and of course bedding problems, bad barrels, off center chambers, bad crowns, and even a broken quarter rib attachment screw now and then. They aren't all alike.....and the newer they are the more likely they are to have a combination of things wrong.
I like that link by RVB Precision. I suggest that the forend be free floated first as it's so easy and anyone can do it this way. Get a plastic faucet washer and drill out the hole larger so the #1's forend screw is somewhat loose it it. Then cut down the width of the washer on paralled sides so that it fits into that groove in the botom of the forend. Place the washer between the stock and hangar and tighten the screw. The forend now should be about a 16th off of the barrel.
As the RGB mentioned it will enable the rifle to stay sighted in. This is really even more important than groups but both are desired.
With this simple modification the two piece stock of the #1 becomes a benefit and not a problem.
The mention of a stronger spring is worthy. There is a smith (can't recall the name yet) who lightens the hammer also which speeds up the locktime. The #1 needs such an improvement.
I have an old #1 (1969) and it has a good trigger that does not need work. The rifle stays sighted in always and now that I has a new Ruger bbl it groups quite well. I am very happy with this rifle. I don't shoot many shots in a row so if the scope mount touches the receiver is a moot point to me. It may not as the rifle is a very good shooter.
Phil, I just had the "Hicks" installed in my #1 7mm Rem. Ultra Mag because I was getting 6-8" groups at 100 yards. How bad did your rifle shoot and to what extent did it improve with the "Hicks" installed? Also, how much did you torque the Allen screw on the accurizer?
Have two #1's and a friend with another. Basic path to happiness for us has been a new trigger(Keplinger or Mowry) and a floated barrel. Brownells has an item that is a clamp on device for the forend hangar that allows easy float job. Contrary to Seyfried's approach I've done better without the pressure pad. .22 K-Hornet, .257 Roberts, and 7x57 AI. Only the 7x57 was rebarreled, all will shoot in the 7's or less(5shots). The Keplinger trigger is awesome....
Herb D, If I recall correctly, my .300 Weatherby was getting 3" groups...with the Hicks it shoots 1" with 1.5 turns with the little wrench after making contact. A change in components sometimes requires adjustment of the setting.
Dan, How much difference did the Hicks accurizer make in your rifle that was shooting 6" groups?
Usually between 1 and 3 turns will do the trick. Sometimes even as little as 1/4 turn will.
For any interested in the Hicks item, It is no longer being made, at least for awhile. The CNC shop that was making them dropped the small runs. Untill another suitable CNC shop that will do small runs is found, they will be out of production.
