Last year, a local gunsmith replaced my CZ 550's factory safety with an aftermarket 3-position safety.

Earlier today, I cleaned the rifle and decided to confirm that the safety's three positions functioned properly.


SAFE (rear position) - I was unable to dry fire the rifle (ie - the safety blocked the firing pin) and was unable to cycle the bolt (functioned properly)

FIRE (forward position) - I was able to dry fire the rifle and was able to cycle the bolt (functioned properly)

Middle Position - I was unable to dry fire the rifle and was able to cycle the bolt (functioned properly)


Thus far, the safety's three positions have functioned as designed.

I continued to cycle the safety's three positions, dry firing, cycling the bolt, etc. and then much to my surprise I experienced an accidental dry fire.

I closed the bolt with the safety in the 'FIRE' position, then placed the safety in the 'Middle' position, pulled the trigger, and the safety performed properly meaning the rifle didn't dry fire.

I relocated the safety from the 'Middle' position back to the 'FIRE' position and then much to my surprise and dismay, I experienced an accidental discharge!

I am not very familiar with how rifle safeties function but I have read that 'timing' can be an issue when converting from a standard, factory safety to an aftermarket 3-position safety.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

sounds like sear engagement on the trigger is too small

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:
sounds like sear engagement on the trigger is too small

In addition to replacing the factory safety with an aftermarket 3-position safety, he also fine tuned (ie - decreased trigger pull and travel) the factory installed, single set trigger as well. Hmm?

Thanks for your feedback.

You can't just drop in any 3 position safety without hand fitting the cocking piece to the safety lever. They work about 25% of the time. Timing is always an issue; in fact, it is super critical to make these work.
Your guy, as stated above, either didn't fit it, or fitted it too tightly.
Or you wore it out dry testing it. (disclaimer; this is a joke; guys are very sensitive these days)

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
You can't just drop in any 3 position safety without hand fitting the cocking piece to the safety lever. They work about 25% of the time. Timing is always an issue; in fact, it is super critical to make these work.
Your guy, as stated above, either didn't fit it, or fitted it too tightly.
Or you wore it out dry testing it. (disclaimer; this is a joke; guys are very sensitive these days)

DPCD, thanks for your feedback.

"Your guy, as stated above, either didn't fit it, or fitted it too tightly".

If this is the case, are the 3-position safety and rifle bolt salvageable (by a competent and knowledgeable gunsmith) or will I have to source either a replacement 3-position safety or rifle bolt?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Additional Info:

When the bolt is closed with the safety in the 'FIRE' position, then the safety set to the 'MIDDLE' position and the trigger pulled, there is an audible click but the firing pin isn't released (ie - no accidental dry fire).

Upon returning the safety to the 'FIRE' position, the accidental dry fire occurs.

Material will need to be removed from the area of the cocking piece that contacts the sear. The safeties not bringing the cocking piece back far enough away from the sear.

quote:

Originally posted by Cajun1956:
Additional Info:

When the bolt is closed with the safety in the 'FIRE' position, then the safety set to the 'MIDDLE' position and the trigger pulled, there is an audible click but the firing pin isn't released (ie - no accidental dry fire).

Upon returning the safety to the 'FIRE' position, the accidental dry fire occurs.

It is salvagable. The cocking piece needs to be adjusted to make it all work properly, and someone should probably look at the trigger for sear engagement. I'm not familiar with the single set variety to say more than that.

What should happen when you move the lever from fire to either safe position is the cocking piece should be cammed back a small amount. This should take the cocking piece off the sear entirely.

Jeremy

Thanks everyone for taking time from your busy schedule to provide feedback regarding this issue.

The consensus is that the aftermarket 3-position safety is salvageable (has not been compromised by the local gunsmith) and that the issue can be addressed by a competent gunsmith who is knowledgeable with regards to aftermarket 3-position safeties.

Obviously, my first concern is experiencing an accidental discharge at the range or while hunting.

My second concern is financial since I've already invested +/- $450 including the cost of the 3-position safety, slow rust bluing, and installation.

The smith who did this for you, (to you?!) ought to have a vested interest in fixing the problem. For liability, as well as reputation concerns.

If you trust him that is...

Easily installed, and fixed, but you have to know how the parts interface. Not rocket surgery.
Yes the original guy should fix it; you paid top dollar for it. But if not, send it to me and I will, for free, it's the shipping that will kill you.
This is why I always say, there is no such thing as a good "local" gunsmith.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Easily installed, and fixed, but you have to know how the parts interface. Not rocket surgery.
Yes the original guy should fix it; you paid top dollar for it. But if not, send it to me and I will, for free, it's the shipping that will kill you.
This is why I always say, there is no such thing as a good "local" gunsmith.

DPCD,

Thanks for your very kind offer my friend.

Please check your Private Messages.

If it "slam fires" when you run the bolt fast or when you tap on the cocking piece in battery, this means the sear doesn't have enough engagement.

If you have the safety on middle position, pull the trigger, hear a little click and it fires when you flick the safety off, this means you need to remove material off the cocking piece where it meats the sear.

Close the bolt with the safety off and measure the distance from the back of the cocking piece to the back of the safety shroud. Engage the safety and the cocking should move back around .025".

Adjusting this dimension can NOT be performed safely with a Dremel or pedestal grinder. It must mimic the correct angle and squareness. I use a surface grinder and an angle fixture to do this.

On another note, the CORRECT angle that SHOULD be ground into the front of the large diameter of the cocking piece where it mates with the safety lever needs to be precise. Not some half ass grind it close enough for the girls doug dates.

James, Thanks for your feedback my friend.


"If you have the safety on middle position, pull the trigger, hear a little click and it fires when you flick the safety off, this means you need to remove material off the cocking piece where it meats the sear."

The above statement describes the actions that precede the unexpected/unintentional dry fire.


"Close the bolt with the safety off and measure the distance from the back of the cocking piece to the back of the safety shroud. Engage the safety and the cocking should move back around .025".

Unfortunately, I have no way of obtaining this measurement. However, I do observe a very, very slight rearward movement of the cocking piece.


I do not possess any gunsmithing skills nor am I unfamiliar with the various components associated with a rifle's safety and trigger mechanism so I will not attempt to correct this safety related issue.

Once again, thanks for your feedback.

Well Cajun. Keep us posted. Please ask for used parts if any are replaced. (cocking piece maybe) No worries. Shouldn't hurt the budget too badly.
Way to check/test that safety. Smart move.

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
Well Cajun. Keep us posted. Please ask for used parts if any are replaced. (cocking piece maybe) No worries. Shouldn't hurt the budget too badly.
Way to check/test that safety. Smart move.

Thanks for your feedback.

Prior to your earlier PM, I wasn't aware of potential timing or other issues associated with upgrading a factory safety.

Lessons learned is that simply checking the safety for functionality in the FIRE, SAFE, and MIDDLE positions was inadequate in this case.

Hopefully, others will take note of this post and thoroughly check out the function of their aftermarket upgraded safety regardless of their gunsmith's reputation, or lack thereof.

Cheers my friend.