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Hi, I have recently taken delivery of a .270 Win. Zastava Mauser. The amount f creep on the trigger has to be felt to be believed, but I was expecting this. Should I just take the rifle to a good gunsmith for trigger adjustment, or invest in a Timney? Obviously the latter option will cost much more, which is a consideration, but can the standard trigger be made to work as well? Will the Timney Mauser Featherweight Delux be a drop-in fit, or will some inletting be required? The rifle has a synthetic stock (which interestingly has "Charles Daly" embossed on the recoil pad), is it possible to inlet a moulded synthetic stock? Finally, would it be possible to replace the trigger with a Timney that does not have the trigger safety, and add a Winchester-type 3-position safety to the cocking piece? I would imagine that this may require replacement of the cocking piece, as the Zastava has a contoured cocking piece, like that of the FN Supreme. Is a safety on the bolt safer than a trigger safety? Thanks in advance! | ||
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if your Zastava trigger is indeed adjustable, try that first it`s your cheapest option. The trigger on my Zastava mini mauser is and I`ll tell you its the best stock trigger i`ve had with only the creep removed. | |||
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I happen to use about 90% Zastava triggers in my M98 actions. I find them cheap and easy to adjust. I have a cheat sheet to adjust them but it is in my stored PC. You should be able to find it via a search here or online. Key issue is you must readjust the safety screw after adjusting the engagement. What have you got to lose. Try adjusting your current trigger if you are not happy buy a Timney. Bet a smith will charge you close to the cost of a Timney to adjust the old one. Just my guess never paid to have one adjusted. Last thought you will need to adjust your stock inletting for the Timney This is a copy of the manual. http://pdf.textfiles.com/manua...MS/interarms_mkx.pdf As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Thanks! This is a great help! I am going to try and adjust the trigger. Cheers | |||
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As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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One of Us |
Which is the best safety/route for a M70 style retrofit on the Mark X, specifically the older Manchester England version with the floor plate release in the bow? Thanks! | |||
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Missed that question. Yep the factory shroud will be history. You can go a 2 position lever right or left. An fn left hand will fit. Kobe and other will convert a m98 shroud to 2 position for you. As to 3 position I happen to prefer the Lapour. http://www.edlapourgunsmithing.com/ Do a search it has been discussed a number of times with pros and cons of most types. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Most helpful, Thanks | |||
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look at the photos of this one for inspiration of what you can do with your Mark X, including the trigger and safety. http://forums.accuratereloadin...2711043/m/8121011631 | |||
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One of Us |
Beautiful! It is a matter of personal opinion, but I believe that the Zastava/Mark X (& FN Supreme) is the most beautiful action ever made! I have decided to sell my .30-06 BSA and buy a Zastava .30-06 identical to my .270, shorten the barrel of the '06 to 22". I like the idea of a matched pair of rifles. | |||
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One of Us |
I just picked up a 1975 Interarms-Manchester England Mark X that appears new in the box. It is a non-speedlock with the adjustable trigger and slide safety that locks the bolt. Upon inspection, the trigger is well made of steel having (5) five adjustment screws for tuning: 1. Sear Engagement Screw w/ sight window. 2. Weight of Pull Screw 3.5 to 5lbs. 3. Back Lash Screw for overtravel. 4. Safety Adjustment Screw. 5. Vertical Play Adjustment Screw. In addition, the trigger assembly can be disassembled to hone and polish the trigger/sear engagement/contact points. It was very simple for me to safely adjust the sear/trigger engagement, spring tension, back lash, safety, and vertical play to make the trigger break crisp and clean at a consistent 4 pounds. I could cleanly go down to just under 4 pounds and cleanly go up to around 4.5 pounds on this particular trigger. I'm happy at 4 pounds and can see no reason to change triggers if staying with a side trigger safety. I would say that if 10 was a perfect trigger break and 1 was an awful trigger break, this particular trigger adjusted out to about a 7+. If I hone and polish, I think I can get it up to an 8. A match trigger it is not, but for a rough and tumble hunting rifle, it is pretty darn good. For a dangerous game rifle, I'd probably switch over to a simple 2-stage military trigger having fewer parts. Best | |||
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where do you find the Zastava triggers , I need a couple for two mausers I am building
No matter where you go or what you do there you are! Yes tis true and tis pity but pity tis, tis true. | |||
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Just post a WTB in classifieds. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I believe that recent Mar X action safeties allow for opening of the bolt when the safety is engaged. Mine does not. It is also stamped "Made in Yugoslavia" as opposed to Serbia, which would imply that it was manufactured prior to 2006, the year in which Servia came to be. Any idea when this change was made to the safety mechanism? | |||
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Yes later ones allowed the bolt to open whiule on safe. I can't give you a date. It takes about 5 min to covert the old style to allow the bolt to open. Looking at the picture you can do it quick and simply remove the vertical tab on the front of the safety. Or you can round the safety off in front of the screw. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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my zastava mauser has an excellent no creep trigger,it is original(ugly safety lever)but may have been adjusted by the previous owner but it is very good.So good,I sold the replacement I bought for it. ****************************************************************** SI VIS PACEM PARA BELLUM *********** | |||
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An update... thanks you again ramrod340 for that link to the Mark X manual. I used it to adjust my Zastava's trigger and man...what a difference. The trigger is now almost perfect. I adjusted the sear engagement screw to reduced trigger creep significantly. With teh action cocked, I screwed it in until the sear broke, and then backed it out again two full turns. There is still a hint of creep and turning it in about 3/4 of a turn (from its current position) eliminates the creep, but I am concerned about the margin for error with regards to safety. Thankas again for the help, it was very fulfilling to do something that I would usually expect a gunsmith to do for me, for myself. Finally, can anyone tell me what the correct specification is of a screwdriver head that will fit the guard screws 100% correctly? | |||
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You are welcome. Engagement and spring pressure go hand in hand. You can get by with less creep if you have more spring pressure. To little pressure and you must engage more. I usually hit the action shroud etc with a plastic hammer if it stays cocked I'm happy. Some hit the butt on the floor. Since you have adjusted the engagement make sure you adjust the safety screw. It should be tight enough to just allow you to engage the safety. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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