After reading many posts regarding the rust bluing process, I have decided to give it a whirl.

I have a few questions:

1: How durable is this finish? Will it hold up on the bolt handle?

2: Can this be done to acheive a "matte" finish?

3: Would "Gloss" or "Matte" finish Scope/mount/rings match the finish best?

4: I am going to attach a barrel band swivel stud. Will this process attack a solder joint? Would Low temp silver solder be better than 60/40 acid core solder? I will have a precise fit between the barrel & barrel band. Would Acra Glas be better to stand up to the boiling process?

5: How does one keep the rust out of the chamber/bore?

6: Can anyone post some good pix of this type of blueing?

Rust blued Mauser:

wildcat junkie,

My take on your questions

1. Very durable, should hold up fine on the bolt handle.
2. Yes
3. Matte
4. No
5. Plug the bore/chamber or coat with clear lacquer.
6. Pics posted above

That looks sweet.

One more question.

Would starting out W/a bead blasted surface be a good way to go?

quote:

Originally posted by wildcat junkie:
That looks sweet.

One more question.

Would starting out W/a bead blasted surface be a good way to go?

I can't answer that question as I have never tried it. I hand polish to a 320 finish.

bead blasting is fine but if you use a cabinet that has a lot of automotive use, you'll likely peen oil into the pores.
Be sure your beads are clean or be prepared for some serious degreasing.

Also, most folks polish to a 320-400 grit and knock it back a little with bead blasting at very low pressure (5-15 psi). But as far as the process is concerned, you can hit it with Black Beauty (coal slag) at 150 psi and still get a blue job from it.

This is low pressure bead blast over 320 grit:

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
Also, most folks polish to a 320-400 grit and knock it back a little with bead blasting at very low pressure (5-15 psi). But as far as the process is concerned, you can hit it with Black Beauty (coal slag) at 150 psi and still get a blue job from it.

This is low pressure bead blast over 320 grit:

That's the finish I am looking for.

Now, can anybody post some links W/info on the products/methods?

I have seen the posts about using a length of gutter for a boiling tank & will probably fabricate one of those myself. Do the parts need to be suspended?

What about a handy, readily available & cheap heat sourch? I have some extra 20# propane tanks for fuel I'm thinking a pair of Coleman camp stoves burners.

Like one of these. http://www.coleman.com/coleman...&product_id=5466AA00

Here's a good place to start.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...&forum_scope=9411043

I have used Laurel Mountain Forge rust blue successfully and found it to be very forgiving. www.laurelmountainforge.com/ Pilkington's is also good. I use a two burner Coleman propane stove and a stainless tank that I happen to have. I card with 0000 steel wool that has been cleaned with acetone Degrease well! Patience is the key. The first couple of applications may be disappointing, don't quit! It will get better.

I use gutter for barreled actions and my wife's stainless stock pots for smaller parts. How long can an ass-eating last, anyway?

At first I worried about suspending the parts in the gutter but after a while I realized the coating was sufficient to prevent the aluminum from affecting the boil. I just set 'em in and let'r rip. I use my shrimp boiler/turkey fryer burner but whatever you use, be prepared to set up some supports to keep the gutter from rolling off. They aren't particularly stable when full of water. Use hi-temp automotive silicone gasket maker to seal the end caps and you're good to go!

Gun Goddess from Half Moon Rifle Shop is another very popular solution for rust blueing.

quote:

Originally posted by Dall85:
I have used Laurel Mountain Forge rust blue successfully and found it to be very forgiving. www.laurelmountainforge.com/ Pilkington's is also good. I use a two burner Coleman propane stove and a stainless tank that I happen to have. I card with 0000 steel wool that has been cleaned with acetone Degrease well! Patience is the key. The first couple of applications may be disappointing, don't quit! It will get better.

I like the "forgiving" statement.

I went to the site & read the instructions. This product sounds like what I would like to use.

I especially like the part about it working through fingerprints etc.

the other option is a vertical tank made from black pipe. you can wrap it in glass to make the heating more efficient. If you are really clever, you can put a heater element in it and heat the tank electrically. otherwise heat the plugged end with a burner, but solder some pure copper rods through the end cap to make a heat exchanger. when it boils over, it floats off any oil.

another way to get a subdued finish is to let the rust go further between boilings. this can be helped along by increasing the humidity and temp in the rusting box. i have found that a double rust cycle between boiling also does the trick, and accelerates the whole process a lot. i always double rust on the first cycle, as it's important to get a good start.

There's no need to coat or plug the bore. It won't rust because no rust solution is applied to the bore. When the barreled action is removed from the boil, the metal is so freaking hot that the water evaporates in about a nano-second.

After each boil, I usually run a clean patch on a de-greased cleaning rod down the barrel to remove any crud that may collect during the boil.

I've been using the Laurel Mtn solution for awhile and like it very much. At 90F and 85-90% in a damp box, I'll get complete coverage in two passes but usually go 5-7 passes.

quote:

Originally posted by Mauser98:
There's no need to coat or plug the bore. It won't rust because no rust solution is applied to the bore. When the barreled action is removed from the boil, the metal is so freaking hot that the water evaporates in about a nano-second.

After each boil, I usually run a clean patch on a de-greased cleaning rod down the barrel to remove any crud that may collect during the boil.

I've been using the Laurel Mtn solution for awhile and like it very much. At 90F and 85-90% in a damp box, I'll get complete coverage in two passes but usually go 5-7 passes.

I was just on Laurel Mtn's site & I think I will give their stock stains & finishes a whirl too. I like the deep penetrating type stains.

I can get all the products for rust blueing, staining, sealing & finishing the stock for less than $50.

I have always used some sort of hand rubbed/applied finish & their instructions are very complete.

How does on make a "damp box"?

When browning muzzle loaders I used to hang everything in the bathroom & shut off the exhaust fans while everyone was taking showers. I could get a great brown in a few days that way. (I have a very understanding Wifey)

Mauser98,

Beautiful color on your rust blue job!

Are you changing the water every time you boil?

Russ,

Please explain the "double rust" process.

All the wiring is in the humidity cab and it gets varnished inside tomorrow morning so that the humidity won't destroy it over time. Probably the last weekend that will allow varnish to properly cure for a while. So am very close to being able to work on this.

Thanks Guys.

quote:

Originally posted by wildcat junkie:

How does on make a "damp box"?

My damp box is made from plywood and is about 5" tall by 16" square. One side is the door. I place an old crock pot filled with water and set on high in the bottom under a partial shelf and place a small fan on the shelf to circulate the moist warm air. Near the top I have another shelf on which to place small parts. Between the shelves, there's room to hang barreled actions.

I installed a light fixture that is controlled by a rheostat in the box so I can control temp and RH. If the RH is getting too close to 100%, I turn the bulb brighter to produce more heat which reduces the RH.

quote:

Originally posted by mstarling:
Mauser98,

Beautiful color on your rust blue job!

Are you changing the water every time you boil?

Thank you.

I use distilled water purchased from a drug store and change after every second boil.