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On your rifles of course. So after the season what do you do with your custom rifle's stock that doesn't have the 1/4" factory poly finish? I find that even in good weather meaning not wet, that my stocks will fade at the carry point just due to the moisture from my hands or through my gloves. If it's a little wet out and snowing, the finish will show it. I've used a high quality furniture polish (wax) and that seems to bring it back. I've also used Birchwood Casey's Stock Conditioner and that works too. But I'm curious as to what other's do or some of the gunmakers to keep their stocks looking fresh. | ||
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A lot of guys take them back to their custom gunsmith for a refinish. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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When my wood is looking dingy, I polish it with a good "wax" and say "come back to life, baby"...  Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Most that actually hunt these rifles don't worry about it too much and look at the wear as a badge of honor. Well, that's probably taking it a bit too far but a custom rifle with a little honest wear looks good to me. Terry -------------------------------------------- Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? | |||
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Don't disagree with some honest carry-wear or handling marks but I look at the stock in a similar way as the metal. I clean the bore and remove the action and make sure I wipe everything down with rust preventative, especially below the woodline. Normal maintenance. I don't want to refinish the stock at the end of every season but I do want to "maintain" it as best as possible. | |||
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OK then, I'll tell ya the way I do it. For most of the first season I watch how I hold and carry the rifle. I try not let it touch anything but me. Of course it still ends up hitting something and probably worse because I was trying to not let it happen. When this happens, (important part) I lick my finger and rub the spot that was offended. I don't know why, it's never helped but I do it anyway. When I get home from the hunt I'll wet a washcloth down and wipe the rifle down, then use whatever my wife has under the sink for the furniture, it's never the same stuff and it never fixes anything I've done to the stock. Usually after the first year when the rifle has some wear marks, a few dents and digs, some flat checkering and a scratch or two I'll stop worring about it and just wipe the mud off at the end of the season. Most of my rifles have been finished with a poly mixture finish. They make some good ones these day's. Most look as good as pure oil to me. It's tough and needs little maitenance. There really isn't much that can be done for it anyway. I broke a new one in this season. It was a wonderful day to do it too. It drew blood at 325yds for it's first kill and got muddy as hell in the process. Fun stuff, sorry I wasn't more helpful. Terry   -------------------------------------------- Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? | |||
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That gave me a good laugh, thanks. I have to try the finger lick technique, that's a new one for me. | |||
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i use trewax after it is wiped down.i would think any carnauba wax will work also.it is the only wax that i have seen that when wet it is not slippery. | |||
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I use a fingertip of the actual finish. Wax is a nice topcoat but in general isn't water resistant. Ask the gunmaker what he finished it with. | |||
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Here's what I always advise the new owner: Use a little "Sea-Fin", Formby's", Waterlox, etc. Rub the stock all over, let it set a few minutes, then wipe off across grain with paper towel. Use an old toothbrush to sweep out the checkering...Rub with paper towel until almost dry (do not leave any buildup) If a little gets on the metal, it will not hurt. Do this at the end of every season and in time, the stock will take on a fine sheen that gets nicer every year | |||
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Leave it home and take a synthetic stocked stainless steel rifle hunting .............. .If it can,t be grown , its gotta be mined .... | |||
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lemon oil, lemon pledge (also works good on metal) B-C stocksheen etc | |||
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I use a wax I got from MidWay USA made by dembart I think. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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Duane or Anyone, Using Sea-Fin, etc., will that hurt the oil finish on a stock if it was finished with something different? | |||
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Well, would be best to use the exact finish as stockmaker used, but most of the "oil" finishes are compatible...usually combos of linseed, tung, verathane (or urethane) and thinners Velvit is another good one, read the labels re thinners, some have toluene or other "enes"...bad! | |||
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Correct Oil finishes like OIL . Some people use wax on top of the oil finishes . It's OK . When ever you wish to bring the finish back to life , simply wipe with Mineral spirits to remove wax residue . Then rub in new OIL Tru oil Watco Teak oil ,as Duane has stated anything with TUNG OIL is Woods Best Friend . There are polymer finishes which leave a little surface implied finish yet soaks into the wood and protect like crazy . I like Aerospace or Marine or Automotive finishes in urethane's . I also like an use Floor finish products , cross linking polymer tough . | |||
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Liquid Gold furniture polish. Buy at grocery store. | |||
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