I tried it this morning, on an '08 Brazilian receiver and lightweight sporter barrel. Directions specified an intermediate grit finish (i.e. 220) -- I went to 400, then buffed with 0000 steel wool until the surfaces were matted. I cleaned with both TCE and acetone prior to starting.

It took about ten applications, with a five minute dip in near boiling water in between each, to get a rich, deep blue/black. I think it works better if you card after every other application.

The blue is even, except for a couple of spots at the bottom of the receiver, where something had stained the metal before I blued it. The finish comes out somewhat matte, looking identical to the old-fashioned rust blue on another gun I have. Overall I am quite pleased with it, and will probably not be sending any more bluing jobs out. Time will tell how it stands up to the elements.

Just curious, where does this product fall in the the spectrum of bluing processes -- accelerated rust blue, chemical blue, or something entirely different?

Todd

I belive it is an "Express blue". Swab it on hot metal then boil, card, repeat??? This is one for me to remember. Most old Express formulas contain Mecuric chloride, bad stuff. Since this works and probably does not contain mercury, I will try it. I have acheives a simiilar thing with Birchwood casey's plum brown. Use as directed then boil it. You get matt black.

[This message has been edited by scot (edited 03-19-2002).]

The only thing I have against Express blues is I dont think they wear very well. The color is usually great but I still think the slow rust blue is a sturdier finish. But what the heck...if you are happy with it, use it.

Bill,

Is it more or less durable than a standard hot tank matte blue?

Todd

This actually sounds like the old Baker formula method. I used that for a number of years and found the bluing to be quite durable. Stains are most often caused by impurities in the water. Use distilled or rain water to cure that problem. stocker

Quite durable -- that's good news. I have a few junked parts lying about, that I knew would come in handy. Maybe when I get a little extra time, I'll blue them the same way, and leave them out to test their rust resistance.

Now I'm just paranoid about the mercuric chloride angle; I HOPE they aren't still selling anything that toxic. Talc powder kept rinsing off of the rubber gloves, so I finally just tossed them. It does comes with the "known by the state of Kalifornia to cause birth defects" label...

I have now 'glassed and screwed the sights on (NECG band front, Williams island rear cleverly modified to use a fold down leaf [so it isn't in the way of the Lyman receiver sight]), and I think the barreled action is looking quite smashing.

Maybe some pics when I get around to taking and developing them.

Best to all,
Todd