When tightening stock bolts ,i read in a shooting mag years ago there was a ''correct sequence '' but it didnt say what it was ? and how do many ft lbs should you tighten stock bolts ?and is there a good torque wrench for this purpose that doesnt cost an arm and a leg ?

The only thing I have ever heard definitively on this subject comes from my new Weatherby Vanguard Submoa owners manual. It states:

With a screwdriver of the proper size, lightly tighten both trigger guard screws

Grasp the barrel and pull it to the rear to seat the barrel and receiver properly in the stock

Tighten the front trigger guard screw firmly and then the rear trigger guard screw

There's no mention of torquing the screws. All my life I have gradually tightened both the front and rear screws one after the other until they were both snug. Which is kinda like what Weatherby advocates. I have no idea if this approach is good or bad or really even matters. As long as the stock bedding is decent, I don't think it would really matter. Specifically, as long as the receiver isn't torqued one way or the other or under undue pressure from either the front or back. Just the view from my seat on the bus...the Weatherby bus...it's the short one with the big W on the side...

Yes there is

Especially if you have a 3 piece trigger gaurd and assembly

What action are you refering too ?

regards
S&F

Well short and fat go ahead and tell us the 2 piece method (Win M70) and the Ruger method and the 1 piece 2 screw Mauser method and we'll have it covered.

Torque wrench? I don't need no steenkin' torque wrench!

Here's my method. I tighten the front screw tight. I tighten the rear screw snug. If there is a middle screw, I screw it in just tight enough to not fall out. In that order.

"Tight", "snug" & "tight enough" are open to your interpretation. Your hand and screw driver handle may give you different results. I really don't think there is a one-size-fits-all standard.

quote:

Originally posted by sep:
There's no mention of torquing the screws. All my life I have gradually tightened both the front and rear screws one after the other until they were both snug. Which is kinda like what Weatherby advocates.

Which is fine. Torque settings are designed to allow a shooter the opportunity to repeat settings which aids in repeatable performance. Screws stretch and stocks compress and so for torque settings to have any repeatable value, these problems have to be addressed. Usually with pillars and good screws.

My sequence is pretty much the same as that which sep writes, but on a 3 screw, I tighten the center screw last. Unless there is a pillar providing support for that screw, I simply make it snug in order to hold the guard in place without imparting undue stress on that part of the action.