I have a Timney in mine -- nice break, but the curve doesn't hit my finger quite right compared to the factory item.

So this weekend I decided to tinker carefully with the factory trigger. Working on the sear engagement and some of the angles (I used the instructions on centerfirecentral.com), I had it down to 3.5 lbs. but still a lot more creep than the Timney.

Worked on it a bit more and the pull weight went up to 4 lbs. The creep was reduced, but still not as good as the Timney.

I did stop frequently to put it all back together, check with a trigger pull scale, then check for safety by working the bolt vigorously and pounding the buttplate on the floor.

So for you DIY guys -- what kind of results have you gotten? Note that I am not asking anyone to post any advice that could cause any legal liability to anyone.

And, has anyone tried the other aftermarket units such as the Dayton-Traister, Spec-Tech or Moyers? How do they compare, both for feel and for ease of installation?

I must have gotten lucky with mine as all I did was polish up the surfaces, install and overtravel screw, and it breaks crisply at 3#. I didn't change any angles, and dont' recall doing much to reduce creep, but it's been about 6 years since I did the trigger.

I have one that was done by my gunsmith that is set at 3 Lbs (very consistent) and with just enough movement so that you know that it moved.

The factory trigger can be cleaned up to the point of being every bit as good as an after market trigger.Plus its cheaper and requires no fitting to make the factory one work. I've got a M77 MII that has been cleaned up to a 2.5lb pull.

I put Spe-tech triggers in mine works great. So that left me with 4 factory triggers to play with. I put one back into the rifle and went to work on it. I could never get them down to where I wanted them. For 50 bucks and a hr of your time you get aadjustable trigger that is easy to install and works great.

I see no reason to mess around witht the rotten factory trigger.

the ruger trigger sucks, mine is adjusted to 2.5-3#'s but it aint no rem 700 trigger. I don't know why gun makers don't get a clue and make guns with real triggers also a trigger pull above 4#'s is about useless

Ruger went to a heavier trigger return spring on their more recently built rifles. A lighter spring will drop the trigger pull down.

I still contend the M77 Mk II is an excellent trigger as designed, but not as built. Polishing the engagement surfaces, and sometimes putting in a lighter spring is all that is needed to fix that.

The Ruger trigger can be every bit as good as any aftermarket, IN SOME CASES. It requires drilling the bottom of the action for an overtravel screw, and gently changing the angle of the trigger's sear mating surface. Then reducing the engagement at the sear nose. This all must be done carefully. The reasone I say "in some cases" is that if too much material is removed from the top of the trigger when changing the angle, the safety will have too much play and not function properly. That's because that any material removed on top of the trigger let's it move ever so slightly forward when the action is cocked and leaves too much space between the safety and trigger, allowing the trigger to move with the safety engaged.
The Timney is the best way to go, by far, as you fit the safety after you've installed the trigger and set the engagement. A little clue, set the engagement on the Timney to the maximum you can stand and adjust the safety abutment, if you later want the engagement decreased, you can take more off the safety abutment.