So I got a couple of these double set triggers along with a 1909 action w/458 WIN barrel and a guard that had a NEGC double trigger already very nicely installed. Feeling frisky, I put one of the two into a guard for a '95 Chilean and thank god I had a 1/4 X 3/4 keyway cutter that was perfect to extend the scallop in the fwd part of the guard recess. Works as it should positioning it just right with a clamp.

My questions are:

a) I cannot find the make of these two triggers. Anybody know?

b) I read the wonders of Loctite XXX and am wondering if that would work instead of pinning?

I had no luck getting a 1909 receiver to feed .458 round nose ammo. The feed cutout is backwards from most other Mauser actions and it would be easier to adapt one of the Czech actions to feed. Get another barrel in a different caliber for the 1909. Otherwise the set triggers are nice but not required on a hunting rifle. I don't know the maker of the trigger but I wouldn't Loctite a trigger in.

Ok, the OP is not using a 1909 action; that is where the triggers came from.. He is using a 95 Chilean.
As for the maker of the DST; many of them were hand made, and most made in Germany and Czech by small shops. Why does it matter.
No, definitely do not glue that trigger in; it must be pinned.

Feeding issues are not caused by cartridge design, but improper gunsmthing...(I cleaned up the quote a litle)

Without the basic beginning of a proper configured magazine, you're just beating a dead horse.

Reliable and safe feeding and function is like an orchestra..Everything must work in harmony

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Ok, the OP is not using a 1909 action; that is where the triggers came from.. He is using a 95 Chilean.
As for the maker of the DST; many of them were hand made, and most made in Germany and Czech by small shops. Why does it matter.
No, definitely do not glue that trigger in; it must be pinned.

Not absolutely certain, but I think Recknagel mfght still make a DST......Not much demand for them anymnore

Yes they do. I just assumed his was a vintage one.

To clear things up, I bought the '09 in parts from a guy that lost interest in the project here in Alaska. Barrel (didn't remember maker) and had a local smith do the trigger, mounts and bolt handle. A brand new Clymer reamer, these two DST's and another guard with a fancy bow for 400 bucks. The action has setback so that was that for me. I didn't quibble, I can sell the guards, triggers, bolt and barrel for considerably more than that on fleabay if I choose. Anyone that wants to trade for barrel/reamer PM me.

I was just curious about the two triggers because they are identical, not one-offs, appear to be castings and have flat springs unlike so many others I found with wire springs. The closest I've found was a Voere, but not identical.

The contrarian in me now dictates that I glue it in. I've mulled it and I can't come up with a reason why not to try it given the considerable contact surface area. It's not like I'm gonna take it to Kodiak and I probably wouldn't hunt with one in any case.

Thanks for replies.

quote:

Feeding issues are not caused by cartridge design, but improper gunsmthing...(I cleaned up the quote a litle)

Without the basic beginning of a proper configured magazine, you're just beating a dead horse.

Reliable and safe feeding and function is like an orchestra..Everything must work in harmony

Duane.
You have said it all along, but it certainly bears repeating

Have in my shop right now, A 1948 FN going from 30-06 to 375 H&H, lots of bottom metal work and then the feed rails etc
Also have 2 Interarms/Zastava actions that will both be 458 Win Mag's when I get done with them

James Wisner
Life Member ACGG

quote:

Originally posted by copperlake:

b) I read the wonders of Loctite XXX and am wondering if that would work instead of pinning?

im interested in this as well as I’m in a very similar boat. Drilling new pin holes to match the existing holes in the used DST body will be difficult i feel, and it’s a very small and specific drill bit. I’ve heard of people stripping the DST down, soft soldering it in place them reassembling. Sounds like pinning is the correct way though

brno, after research I'm going to use epoxy. Pretty much everything I read says that it performs the best metal-to-metal bond, especially the heat-cured variety. I'm not so worried about the pinning but it may be that I want to use it elsewhere. I've seen these on fleabay with holes scattered about. A soak in MEK for a day will make it removable or a heat gun. When I read one can't beat a iron sight off with a maul using loctite XXX, I can't fathom why this won't work. It's not like there are any significant loads on the thing it just has to be secure and immobile. I can't readily get heat-cured epoxy so I'm going to use a standard equal two-part with fillers.

Yes I should think a good epoxy bond will be more than strong enough.

quote:

Originally posted by copperlake:
I've seen these on fleabay with holes scattered about.

that explains how people match up the old holes then - they don’t…

quote:

Yes I should think a good epoxy bond will be more than strong enough.
quote:
Originally posted by copperlake:
I've seen these on fleabay with holes scattered about.
that explains how people match up the old holes then - they don’t…

I went ahead and did it using slow-set JB weld. I increased the width of the slot about 15thou on each side. I calculated the contact area as being over one sq in, JB sez 5200 lbs/in. I held the rear trigger away from the bow with hot glue to get proper function. Wait until it sets to bubble gum and trim squeeze-out w/Xacto, smoothing with MEK and Qtip. Works on five different actions, flawlessly. And now I wouldn't do it any other way...

That sounds really good. Did you key the surfaces at all to help the JB weld grab? Or were they rough enough?

The trigger in the photo not on the action looks identical to the one I just adjusted on a Krico built on a Brno-clone action. I have no idea whether the trigger is Krico or a Brno pattern, or something else entirely.

By the way, the adjustment was not something done with the little screw in the middle (that's simple enough, however.) The problem was that the gun is in a custom stock and the stock maker made the distance between the bottom metal and the receiver too fat so that the trigger was too far from the striker release. This caused the rear (set) trigger to fail to return to battery after each shot. After puzzling over the problem the cure was simple: Inlet the rear tang of the bottom metal just a tad deeper and, viola, everything works as it should.

quote:

Originally posted by copperlake:
I went ahead and did it using slow-set JB weld................with hot glue to get proper function.......... bubble gum .........five different actions, flawlessly...... And now I wouldn't do it any other way...

What happens when someone blues it????

WOW, just fu#&!ng WOW.
If you're thinking about working on a firearm and you don't want to do it right the first time, you need to find another hobby.

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

What happens when someone blues it????.

what by using the best, most thorough traditional high grade method ie rust bluing? Obviously only good things. Unless you mean the rushed modern high production method of hot caustic solution - in which case it’s obvious. Same as lead soldered shotgun ribs.

But anyway that’s an ashamedly rude comment you’ve written, really paints you in a low light especially as it’s pretty clear copperlake is not an amateur

Glue has no place on any trigger system unless it's used over the adjustment screws only.

It's a SAFETY thing.

You want to do it right the first time, don't you????

Never forget many rifles live much longer than the last person that worked on them.

On another point, solder/braze has no business on a cocking piece either. Ever seen a Rem700 lose a handle? What do you think happens when a sear falls off a cocking piece?

quote:

Originally posted by brnomauser:
it’s pretty clear copperlake is not an amateur

You mean he gets paid to do this?

What's bore cleaner and oil going to do to the glue sometime in the future?

Using glue to hold the parts in position to drill it for new pins would be acceptable. Then remove the glue. Superglue works great for TEMPORARY fixturing cause you can drop it in acetone, or add a little heat to remove the glue.

In my world safety trumps anyone's feelings.

I have five or six of those triggers.they were made by Anchutz and can be made to fit a few different actions. My 92 year old German gunsmith sets them up for Mausers. I am helping him liquidate inventory. I am not a gunsmith. If you need help installing them, pm me and I will give you his contact info.