Ok, so I now have a new handguard and butt stock for my 1886 (made in 94 as I remember it) and it is time to start fitting pieces and parts.

I can not get the magazine tube to budge to start the process.
I have had small amounts of oil soaking on the mount and where the tube goes into the action and still does not want to give.
I do Not want to damage the handguard ( it is in "perfect" condition for a used gun of that age)and so I want it removed as is.

For all you collectors out there, "get over it"
The gun has a badly cracked butt stock, broken hammer spur and will be a family cast bullet shooter and deer slayer (last use only for "old times" sake).

I need any ideas on removing that pesky magazine tube.
Old age stuck?
Threaded?
something that will not injure handguard IF possible.
Only have to next fall deer season to get it done so speed is NOT priority!

LouisB

TCLouis---

What model '86 is it? Carbine, button mag, full mag, rifle, half oct/half round??? They're all a little different.

Tell me what you have and I can talk you through it.

All my recent-production winchester/brownchesters have their mag tube threaded into the reciever.

JBelk
et al.
Rifle
Octagon barrel
Full length magazine tube
Serial # 112XXX

Next project is to build a new spur on the hammer.
Was gonna just buy a new hammer until I found one for sale! I can do a bunch of welding/filing for that kind of money!
LouisB

[ 03-08-2003, 20:59: Message edited by: TCLouis ]

btt

TCLouis----

I'm working from memory so if I cite a screw that you don't see, move on.....if you see a screw or pin I didn't mention.....ask.

That rifle, in my minds eye, has a nose cap on the end of the forend with a screw in each side. There's a barrel band between that cap and the muzzle with one screw through it.....or is it a pin?

There's a plug in the end of the mag tube and a screw who's head is in the 6 OClock position. That screw goes through the cap and into the bottom of the barrel.

The first rule of any firearms dissesembly is to relax a spring if you can. The cap on the end of the mag tube holds the follower spring in the mag tube.

Unscrew the mag tube cap screw and HOLD THAT CAP when you take it out. You might have to tap the side of the tube right at the end to loosen the plug.
Take the spring and follower out of the tube.

Remove the pin or screw that goes through the barrel band. If it's a screw it's probably bent. That's normal. DON'T straighten it.

Remove the two nose cap screws and slide the nose cap forward to expose the attaching block. It's probably rusty. Put a drop or two of penetrating oil between the block and the tube......no more than that. You don't want to oil soak the forend.

Now take a pin punch and run it through the holes in the end of the mag tube at the muzzle end. Gently twist back and forth to free the tube while pulling forward. The tube should come out the front but it'll take some twisting and pulling and maybe another drop or three of oil down near the block to free it up if it's rusted. Oil the tube below where it's sliding through the barrel band too. Make sure the grit and grime is cleaned off the tube so it doesn't get scratched sliding through the barrel band.

Once the tube is out of the gun, drift out the block at the front of the forend and the forend will slip forward .100 or so and fall off.

Ask questions if you have them.

PS Edit---- Your rifle was built in 1897. There were '86s made with several different barrel lenghts and some have two "loops" instead of a nose cap. The loops are mounted to the barrel in ROTARY dovetails. If you drive one out you RUIN the barrel. You MUST remove the mag tube and then rotate the loop 90 degrees and it'll fall off.

That tiny pin that goes through the loop is what's holding the mag tube in place.

[ 03-09-2003, 06:49: Message edited by: JBelk ]

TCLouis

When you said '94', my brain was off by 100 years. Sorry about that. Hope I didn't confuse things.