I had to cut back a Mauser 98 cocking piece to fit a new safety -- now I'm noticing the fresh surface is a little soft, getting marked up by the safety lever in just a few throws. Just like Jack Belk has said about a dozen times.

How should I go about re-hardening this part? Instead of the 'beveling' approach, I cut it straight back from the top edge, but not all the way down -- the leading edge has a step in it now. It appears to work okay -- is there any other way I should have done it?

Thanks in advance,
Todd

I'm about to wing it with a propane torch and jar of old motor oil...

Anybody, anybody?

Todd

Todd,
Casehardening involves introducing carbon to the surface of soft steel. The carbon tradionally comes from bone, leather or charcoal that surrounds the part during the heating process. The part is quenched in water to harden the carbon into the surface of the steel. It is a process that can and has been done under some pretty primitive conditions. Hopefully Jack will explain an easy method for you to use. I'm sure there are also products on the market that can be use to introduce the carbon at a low temperature.

I'd try Casenite. Get it from Brownells.

Someone else may know better, but that's what I would do.

My reasoning is this. Mauser actions were made of mild steel and case hardened. I suspect the small parts were, too. I'd a lot rather rely on a casehardened surface than take a chance on getting it too brittle.

Corrections and illumination gladly accepted.

Kurt,

GMTA

Todd---

All a propane torch is going to do is anneal it.

I'm unclear on how much you had to cut. The cocking piece is double case-hardened to about .050 deep. You can get that with Casenite but it takes a furnace to hold it in the pack about an hour then a water quench.

That's not an option on an existing part. It already has all the carbon it can hold except where you ground it away. They'll crack if you re-do it.

You're better off with a well fitted surface that spreads the load out as much as possible, then introduce a dab of copper-based anti-sieze and work it several times. It'll wear in and work harden in just a few repetitions. No additional heat treat needed.