I am constructing a benchrest fore end for an encore pistol. I want to attatch a piece of wormy chestnut for a tip to the body of walnut. What is the best method? I was thinknig of a 2 part epoxy with some wood vises to provide pressure until it cured. Also would wood glue be strong enough? Or will I have to pin it.

I would drill the end of the forearm for two hardwood dowels and drill two corresponding holes in the tip to match. This gives you much greater gluing area and strength for the joint.

Hello Chadr, I've repaired a few broken cello/violin necks. I would go along with the dowel - but using only a single one. Avoid using hide glue - it's superb for furniture and musical bits - but it's contra-indicated for shock and moisture.

I would proceed as follows

i) drill a 1/8 pilot hole into the main foreend piece.
ii) chamfer the hole beyond the 1/2" diameter point with a razor blade. Done this way you avoid creating a "rocking" face from the burr raised when drilling the next hole.
iii) drill a 1/2" hole down the piot hole for about 2".
iv)make a sliding punch from a piece of 1 1/2" long x 1/2" diameter steel rod (turn the one end to a point)- make it a sliding fit in the 1/2" hole.
v) slip it into the hole drilled in iii)- point facing outwards
vi) carefully fit the tip of the foreend into its exact position
vii) make like a cocktail shaker
viii) remove foreend tip and drill a 1/8" pilot hole from the centre-punch mark left by the sliding punch.
ix) repeat ii)
x)drill a 1/2"diameter hole - 2" deep if possible
xi) make a wooden dowel from teh same wood as the foreend. Then file a flat down one side of the dowel. This forms a leakage path to prevent trapped compressed air from "popping" the joint behind your back. Just believe me!
xii) epoxy it all together. Wet all surfaces with epoxy. Work a dollop of epoxy down to the bottom of the two holes. Warm with a hot air gun and use a scriber point to persuade all and any air bubbles to remove themselves. Slowly insert the dowel into one hole until it bottoms. Push the tip on in the same fashion. Twist the two parts together to ensure that you have squeegeed all excess epoxy out from between the two faces. Do not clamp! If you feel that you must - use a couple of office strength rubber bands. Over-clamping is an epoxy-joint's greatest enemy.
xiii) wipe away the excess epoxy immediately with MEK saturated paper towels.

enjoy edi

I double blind-pin with dowels. I cut bleed grooves on the dowels as well and furthur drill bleed holes from bottom of the dowel hole to the barrel channel.

I use epoxy with dye to match the darker of the two woods and moderate clamp pressure, wiping off excess before the glue kicks over.

I use twin, stainless steel, 1/4x20 all thread sections in "F" size (.257) holes with epoxy.

It takes dedication and hard labor to remove one.